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Whats up everybody. I'm new to the forum. Just picked up a '99 base Prelude for $100. 100,XXX miles, 5 speed. She is pretty rough around the edges, but I got her running and driving today. Seems like a fun car!
Dragged her outta the bushes!
New tires, Khumo Ecstas, just some cheap ones from Discount. Oil change and a battery, some serious cleaning inside and out....
Coilovers? Header? Sell for nice profit? Not sure yet.
And oh my god I just realized my rear wheels are on the wrong side! Gonna have to go have a word with the boys at Discount... I know the tread direction is correct. I checked that myself.
Last edited by alenehan; Nov 19, 2015 at 07:10 AM.
1. New brake pads, turn rotors, paint calipers, flush system and run DOT 4
2. Replace or upgrade any worn bushings or ball joints.
3. KSport Kontrol Coilovers
4. Upgrade swaybars
5. Lighter wheels and some serious tires
6. Power?
How about some more maintenance? Nice score, BTW, maybe check out the $2015 Grassroots Motorsports Challenge?
Shoot me a PM if you'd be interested in doing the challenge, possibly teaming up. I'm probably not that far from you, and already have taken the time off for the Challenge.
How about some more maintenance? Nice score, BTW, maybe check out the $2015 Grassroots Motorsports Challenge?
Shoot me a PM if you'd be interested in doing the challenge, possibly teaming up. I'm probably not that far from you, and already have taken the time off for the Challenge.
Sounds like a cool event! I am probably gonna go past $2015 pretty quick though... My limit is my time, not money. Since you're in the area, any shop you would recommend that do Honda performance?
I was also looking at doing the timing belt sooner rather than later, and possibly some top end work since i'll be in there. Is there any other major maintenance besides fluid changes? I am going to do brakes firsts and then the trans fluid.
Last edited by alenehan; Nov 19, 2015 at 07:10 AM.
The scrap metal price is worth more than that, you scored.
I wonder why it was so cheap and why someone would just leave it in the bushes.
Basic maintenance, there's alot to go over before suspension mods. Get it in the air.
What am I missing? Again, my plan is inspect brake system, timing belt (Ordered Gates and Manual tensioner), fresh fluids... The only other thing in the owners manual is to check fuel lines, tie rod ends, and driveshafts. I looked through the list for 75k-105k.
Are there things I should be looking out for that aren't in the manual? This is my 26th car so I'm not new to the game. I crawled all over her and didn't find anything concerning.
Hope the vin matches, cause a steal sounds about right unless your family sold it you lol no offense.
So the story.... Ive known the guy through mutual friends for a few years, and this thing has always been in his driveway. It was his moms, and she passed away a few years back, and it just sat there while the bushes took over. He decided to move out last minute, and needed it gone that night. He called me up and told me $100 and he wanted to take it for a drive if I ever got it going. I'm $570 into it now with tires, battery, fluids and timing belt.
Last edited by alenehan; Nov 19, 2015 at 07:11 AM.
Maintenance advice.. I'm just gonna list all I think of, and u pick through what u already did. Also, your car has been sitting a long time. Ur gonna want to replace outer engine seals.
Pads
Rotors
NEW/rebuilt calipers. Legend gs 2 piston or oem prelude.
Stainless brake lines
Flush brake fluid, new master possibly
Lift and Shake wheels to check, but..
Lower ball joints-critical
Tie rod ends
Check wheel bearings
Check all bushings, especially sway bar end links!!
Alignment
Timing belt
Balance belt
Water pump
Valve cover gasket full 13pc set
Cam cap Seals
Crank seal, balance seals
Engine mounts-4
Clutch disc and pressure plate
Flywheel-inspect
Rear main seal
Slave
Master
Flush and bleed
Coolant, replace upper/lower hoses
Replace/inspect radiator
Replace thermostat
Flush coolant passages with high PSI washer/watch closely for any rust or orange water coming out.
A/c- this will be brutal. A/c runs up to 300+ PSI, seals and everything could be leaky. Run dye through system
New fuses. Why not?
New battery
New battery terminal connectors
New bulbs everywhere.
Check functionality of climate control and especially heater core.
Use obd2 scan tool to see what pops up. Surely ur ignition system and emissions equip need work.
Spark plugs
Wires
Coil
Cap
Rotor
Dizzy?
Oil change
Injector cleaner
And that's just what I can think of off the top of my head.. any questions let me know.. the replacing of outer engine seals is important. They dry out easily.
Maintenance advice.. I'm just gonna list all I think of, and u pick through what u already did. Also, your car has been sitting a long time. Ur gonna want to replace outer engine seals.
Pads
Rotors
NEW/rebuilt calipers. Legend gs 2 piston or oem prelude.
Stainless brake lines
Flush brake fluid, new master possibly
Lift and Shake wheels to check, but..
Lower ball joints-critical
Tie rod ends
Check wheel bearings
Check all bushings, especially sway bar end links!!
Alignment
Timing belt
Balance belt
Water pump
Valve cover gasket full 13pc set
Cam cap Seals
Crank seal, balance seals
Engine mounts-4
Clutch disc and pressure plate
Flywheel-inspect
Rear main seal
Slave
Master
Flush and bleed
Coolant, replace upper/lower hoses
Replace/inspect radiator
Replace thermostat
Flush coolant passages with high PSI washer/watch closely for any rust or orange water coming out.
A/c- this will be brutal. A/c runs up to 300+ PSI, seals and everything could be leaky. Run dye through system
New fuses. Why not?
New battery
New battery terminal connectors
New bulbs everywhere.
Check functionality of climate control and especially heater core.
Use obd2 scan tool to see what pops up. Surely ur ignition system and emissions equip need work.
Spark plugs
Wires
Coil
Cap
Rotor
Dizzy?
Oil change
Injector cleaner
And that's just what I can think of off the top of my head.. any questions let me know.. the replacing of outer engine seals is important. They dry out easily.
Holy list Batman! Thanks for the advice! Ill be working through all that. As of now she is a solid running and driving car. Took her to autocross today and laid down some good times. Going to need shocks asap. Right Front is blown.
Yeah it's not a pressing list. Well, most of it at least. Just things to do over the next month. Use ur judgment, u have the idea now.
Be careful autox on suspension components u haven't put to a test. If a lower front balljoint lets go, it'll cause a grand in damage. Don't ask how I know. Though in my case it was brand new and the stud snapped in half, but still.
I'd always recommend the 5 way dampening adjustable KYB AGX with neuspeed sport or race springs, and new upper strut mounts. I've had them on several preludes. It's a great match for the 4th gen at least.
Yeah it's not a pressing list. Well, most of it at least. Just things to do over the next month. Use ur judgment, u have the idea now.
Be careful autox on suspension components u haven't put to a test. If a lower front balljoint lets go, it'll cause a grand in damage. Don't ask how I know. Though in my case it was brand new and the stud snapped in half, but still.
I'd always recommend the 5 way dampening adjustable KYB AGX with neuspeed sport or race springs, and new upper strut mounts. I've had them on several preludes. It's a great match for the 4th gen at least.
Everything was tight in the front end, the front shocks were weak, and I blew the right one on the way there on a pothole. I ordered a set of Bilstein sports with Sheepdog performance springs. From what I can tell they are an old JDM aftermarket brand. Its a bit of a risk buying an unknown brand, but the price was right. Plugs and wires are done. Timing belt and tensioner are due in today. The power steering system is leaky and will be removed. Going to do a full gut and make it a manual rack.
Bilstein Sports are very solid. Never heard of Sheepdog. Check the spring rates, anything over 600 pounds per inch is gonna be uncomfortable on US roads imo. But hey, its your car.
I forgot to mention it would be a good idea to do the H23 manual tensioner conversion- $80 at importrp. People say the auto tensioner fails, and maybe it does, but I like the idea of a set mechanical timing more anyways.
GL with the PS rack. I'm waiting til mine starts leaking before I mess with it. Ha
WHich manual rack are you going with? I to am wanting to go this route but have only seen one rack that would fit the bill so to speak on this. It was a del sol manual rack and seems to be perfect for our preludes.
WHich manual rack are you going with? I to am wanting to go this route but have only seen one rack that would fit the bill so to speak on this. It was a del sol manual rack and seems to be perfect for our preludes.
Is a Del Sol rack a direct fit? I haven't looked into that one.
Right now, my plan is to take the stock one apart and see whats going on in there. I have several years of experience with hydraulic systems, and I am confident I can safely modify the system to work as a manual rack. I was frustrated by the guides and information here on honda-tech, so maybe when I'm done I Will make an informational post of my own.
Also, I bought a decent looking manual tensioner system. It was a little more expensive, but looked more straight forward than the H23 swap.
KS tuned tensioners are fine. I personally used an H23 tensioner, I prefer it that way. The KS tensioner, while a fine product, still uses the large tensioner arm from the H22 that bolts to the water pump and is generally in the category of "more **** to break". I had walking issues with my belt until I went to the H23 design, which is a single pulley mounted on a single stud.
My $100 5g Prelude
