I'm looking for some feedback on the 2.2 cams. My motor is in pieces, the head is in LA and the block is in Portland and I have the pistons in New York, don't ask. Claying the motor is not an option right now and I need to buy some cams. I'm concerned with piston to valve clearance because my head is milled 30 thou and I have type S pistons. I want to use jun III's or skunk 3's but I will settle for some stage 2's. Anyone have experience with similiar clearances?

 

can you even clay a VTEC motor?

 

Sure, you would just have to lock the rocker arms together. Honda has a special tool for this. It uses air pressure instead of oil pressure.

I suppose it would be possible to just measure everything out, though not as accurate nor as simple as claying an assembled motor. Maybe someone on here has a similar setup as you?

 

.030in. is quite a bit to take off a head. now granted the type-s pistons aren't 12:1 or anything like that, but a stage 3 cam in any brand from what i remember is darn close to a .500in. lift. i'd stay with a stage 2 and make sure your valvesprings are upgraded, god forbid valve float and collision.

mike

 

I've got a head milled 20K w type-s pistons and crower 2's... I wouldn't go threes without testing it first... I'd go with the 2's anyways. Better idle for steet and not much differnce in HP maybe 5-7whp at I would think....?

 

thanks for all the replies

I really want to hear from someone with stage III's. Its hard to find good info on 2.2's nowadays. I'm gonna be moving alot of air through the head with SS valves and some major porting so I'd like to optimize that with wild cams.

I have to agree that 30 thou is alot to mill off a vtec head but its hard to raise compression high with out re-sleeving the block and S pistons only get you to 11:1.

Anyone have some III's with 11:5:1 compression?

 

If you have access: http://www.preludeonline.com/showthr...hlight=JG+head

This guy got Skunk Stage 2 cams...you CAN'T mill the head and run these cams. He immediately bent his valves!

"well i'm just spreading what skunk2 said. apparently the skunk2 stage 2 cams are a full degree higher lift than crower stage2 cams. that is the reason why they say that with skunk2 cams you can't mill the head or use oversized valves, or a thinner head gasket. I realize i didn't specify that i was talking about skunk2 cams... you may be able to do it with smaller lift cams. but i'm just putting a warning out to all the guys to make sure they know for a fact thhat they know what they're doing."


So skunk stage II or higher and you're in trouble. So you may be okay with crower, but not JUN.


[Modified by satan_srv, 10:43 AM 11/5/2002]

 

Actually going by the specs, thus far Skunk2's have the highest lift out of all of the cams on the market. JUN cams are more like Crower Stage 3's than Skunk2's. I'm not sure why Skunk2 decided to go for the high lift low duration style since no one else is following. I believe that the JUN lift profile is .480" and Skunk2's is .505" So this might be a problem isolated to just Skunk2 cams since they're the only ones that have such a high lift profile. Though if you intend to run oversize valves you should make sure that they clear the piston dome first.

 

when i had my lude i had crower stg 2 and type s pistons with a 25 thou mill. I had no clearance problems whatsoever.

 

if you don't have someone who knows what they're doing installing the cams, then you might as well kiss that bitch goodbye.

and I mean KNOW'S WHAT THEY"RE DOING. AS IN DONE IT 200 TIMES BEFORE.

not that I don't have personal experience blowing this stuff up or anything... me? nahh... no way.

clay that beyotch, or don't bother putting them in.

 

I totally agree with you. The only problem is that shipping is gonna kill me to have it clayed. The cams are goin to be prepped and installed by my head builder and the block by my block builder (sounds funny but I have 2 diff builders for 1 engine). Honda-tech is a great resource for info but thats pretty much for B series torque-less wonders . And don't worry about me blowin up the motor or finding a good builder, I'm just doing my own research, thats all.

 

sorry for digging up an old post but im in the same situation as the thread starter, want to mill the head with type s pistons and crower stage 2 or 3 cams. i want to end up with an overall CR of somewhere between 12:1 and 12.5:1 somebody has had to do this before, also i need to kow the math behind milling the head and the CR increase it gives you for a given amount.

 

somebody? anybody?

 

I decieded to take my whole long block down to my builder because there is a lack of info on prelude upgrades and clearances and I didn't want risk anything. I ended up modifying the type S pistons to match the combustion chambers by milling extra big valve reliefs on the pistons for extra clearance. To be safe your gonna have to clay the motor at different cam gear settings when you have a high comp piston and aggresive cam, this can be labor intensive but definetely worth it after a complete rebuild.

send me a PM and we can discuss this further or I can put you in touch with my engine builder who can help out with clearances.

 

I run SKunk2 Stage 2 cams myself. If you already milled the head, then you must clay the motor. Another alternative would be to get a thicker headgasket to make up for the difference that was milled off. BUt if your gonna use a cam with .5 of lift or more you have to check the piston to valve clearance. If there is a clearance problem then you are going to have to get the pistons valve reliefs shaved to match up properly.


[Modified by Ritteri, 11:23 PM 1/19/2003]

 

Another option you may want to consider is having the exhaust valves sunk .010 to .020 into the head. That will afford you some more clearance and also some heads flow better on the exhaust side with the valve shrouded by the chamber. It helps direct flow around valve head. Option 2 would be titanium valves only on the exhaust side. When you overrev the exhaust valves will be the first to make contact w/pistons. I have 8 of them in my dragbike (200 HP) and they were about 80 dollars apiece....but I still have them......3gdude

 

here is a really good tutorial on claying your motor for those who are interested. I know it wont help you but its just good info

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php


[Modified by ViZ, 10:16 AM 1/20/2003]