What VTEC cyl head do i have!
I like to think I know b-series by now, but the head says pr3-3 just like my ITR one(guy said this was an itr head). But last time I had the 97 spec how can I tell what year and what's up with this vtec sol I've never seen one like this. I'm selling all this stuff for my turbo k24.

Stamped just like the ITR from from last build

00 year...meaning a 98+ spec head

Ummm what TF is this thing

Stamped just like the ITR from from last build

00 year...meaning a 98+ spec head

Ummm what TF is this thing
Then why was my 97 ITR motors head stamped the same, which I bought from one of the biggest importers here. You do know the ITR/B16 share the same head code that's the first thing that comes up in google someone painted it so I cant see the green paint by the distributor.
i'm well aware I stated that basing off the code is irrelevant, has s2 valve springs and tuner 2's so the only thing I can go off is the bowl it's very mild clean up most say P/P but in reality it was more bowl/clean up.
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well if you feel it smoother than rugged cast on the unported head then its the b16 type r head you wanted
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Is the head seperated from the block yet? Or is the engine still put together and installed in the car?
its still in the car complete was kind of hoping to leave it that way, can I ID the combustion chambers some how?
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Those numbers indicate the cut of the intake valve seat. You would see this looking up into the bowl with the intake valve removed. The picture of 2 valves next to each other is a comparison of the regular b16a valve vs. a type r valve. The R valve is lighter and has a thinner stem.
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Most of the improvements on the R head in regards to port work can be noticed only on the intake side and the bowl of the head. The amount of work isn't a whole lot and is hard to determine unless you know what to look for or have a non-R head to compare to.
In the event you dont have an R head, would it really matter since you're planning on selling the engine? Having an R head on a GSR block wont fetch you a whole lot more money and the difference in power output isn't very significant based on head casting alone.
In the event you dont have an R head, would it really matter since you're planning on selling the engine? Having an R head on a GSR block wont fetch you a whole lot more money and the difference in power output isn't very significant based on head casting alone.
well it's a b20v so the head is the selling point sadly the block is supposedly a 99+ which is the higher comp b20. without a other vtec head to compare to i'm guessing I would not be able to tell the diff. the stock cams have yet to be confirmed. I don't trust the guy I just wanted the shell.
thanks for the info guys, may just let it go cheap not in the mood to bitch with kids saying ohh its a "b16 head bro"
thanks for the info guys, may just let it go cheap not in the mood to bitch with kids saying ohh its a "b16 head bro"
The VTEC solenoid assembly pictured is actually from a D16Z6 (or SOHC equivalent), and this is why the pressure switch is pointing toward the front of the car instead of the passenger side.
PR3-X head castings are the basis for both B16A and ITR cylinder heads... the modifications to the runners just inside the valve seat, along with a different seat cut, dictates what the bare head ends up on. Intake valve identification, dual exhaust springs and camshafts obviously also differ... however, these parts can be interchanged.
Simply, if the runners appear to be rough cast more than 1/2" above/inside from the valve seat, it is a B16 head. If they appear modified above that, it is either an ITR head or it has had some type of machine/port work done.
PR3-X head castings are the basis for both B16A and ITR cylinder heads... the modifications to the runners just inside the valve seat, along with a different seat cut, dictates what the bare head ends up on. Intake valve identification, dual exhaust springs and camshafts obviously also differ... however, these parts can be interchanged.
Simply, if the runners appear to be rough cast more than 1/2" above/inside from the valve seat, it is a B16 head. If they appear modified above that, it is either an ITR head or it has had some type of machine/port work done.
As posted above. If the valves are stock and ITR they will be "deshrouded" around the stem where it passes the ports. Other than seeing if the intake ports are cleaned up (polished) from the factory there is no way to tell.
Most of the improvements on the R head in regards to port work can be noticed only on the intake side and the bowl of the head. The amount of work isn't a whole lot and is hard to determine unless you know what to look for or have a non-R head to compare to.
In the event you dont have an R head, would it really matter since you're planning on selling the engine? Having an R head on a GSR block wont fetch you a whole lot more money and the difference in power output isn't very significant based on head casting alone.
In the event you dont have an R head, would it really matter since you're planning on selling the engine? Having an R head on a GSR block wont fetch you a whole lot more money and the difference in power output isn't very significant based on head casting alone.
Here are some pics i took of my Brand new Type R crate head from the factory straight out the box, you can see the slight porting in the chambers. Its not much but you can notice it.




This is what the intake valves should look like. This was from my ITR head. Funny I got mine on a trade b/c it was thought to be a b16 head. Pulled it a part to check it out and found I had a type r. Cams and all.
Thanks to both of you for the pictures, @wunfastgsr im looking at the almost shiny area right in between the seal and top of the valve right? the alost fresh ground metal look?. Thanks pr8urVtec hopefully ill be able to tell once the intake manifold is off easier for me to sell a compete engine.
Yes exactly you can see the metal is smooth or ported up a bit. ITR valves are swirl polished i believe for better air flow as well.
it's just a 00 b16a2 head pulled the IM today looks nothing like the pics or even like it had the slightest work done. My last question before selling this thing.. to even put a hybrid b together would aftermarket head studs be required im listing everything it has
Not really unless its gonna be boosted or you want the piece of mind from the head studs. I always just reused my ARP head studs.









