So I just finished my euro r swap has all the jdm sensors and they are wired correctly, I am using the rywire internal coil wire adapter and I noticed I noticed one of the rywire distributor adapter plugs that should have 4 wires has only 3 wires its missing the green wire, then main distributor 8 wire plug has all 8 wires plugged in, its just the rywire plug that goes to the usdm harness plug is missing the green wire, i also noticed rywire sent me a little red jumper wire any ideas on that? Or what i should connect this green wire to?

 

Try calling them and asking whats the red wire for and why your adapter harness is missing the green wire.

 

Ok so I got the car running, so it didnt run because I did not have the external coil hooked up which I thought shouldnt be hooked up because the rywire distributor adapter harness deletes it, apparently not because once I plug it in it started, im confused how its able to run because the jdm distributor already has a internal coil and the jdm distributor cap does not have the extra spark plug wire port that runs to the external coil. So it runs and the motor sounds healthy but it does have the iacv throttle rev problem, the wiring is right, I know it right because It doesnt throw a cel until I disconnect the ground wire, the iacv third ground wire was grounded to the valve cover ground, I tried connecting the ground wire to the egr wire ground which is how its done on the euro r harness when I did that it threw a cel for the egr and the iacv not sure why, so I think the iacv is causing it to rev up and down because its clogged or frozen up from sitting so long, Ill take it off tommorow, has anyone else had that problem with the iacv?

 

Yes I had the same issue with my euro r iacv it ended up being a bad sensor so i replaced it entirely. How did you wire the egr valve, did you wire it per the other thread I sent you? Id love run the pcd ecu if it ran the engine properly and the egr CEL never came on. Im curious to see if you can do this.

 

I didnt wire the egr the same way, I connected the pink wire to the orange wire from the egr solenoid plug on the driver side by the power steering pump, the ground wire i tapped into the ecu pin 23 on the usdm harness which is power ground 2 then the other 3 egr wires were already the same color code

 

Fixed the iac, sprayed it with berrymans b12 cleaner, wd40, pressure washer, and air, worked good idles fine now, now i have to drive it for awhile to make sure the egr system is working.

 

Please let me know if the code does or doesn't come on. I really would like to run the euro-r ecu again since it was made for our engines.

 

How did you have your egr wired did you connect the pink wire from the egr plug to the orange wire neer the ps reservoir?

 

Yes I wired it up to the orange wire on the egr vacuum solenoid. Still popped the egr cel.

 

I asked rywire the same question about that extra red connector. I must have deleted it though. If I remember correctly that red wire is to power the internal coil from your Ext. coil harness plug. If you used to have External Coil that wire routes the power back to the Dizzy for the Int. Coil.

I did not have to use it since I got the same adapter but opted for the TD-61U which still has all the CKY, CKP, TDC crap in the dizzy but is Ext. Coil.
I am running P28 S300, Obd2a-Obd1 Adapter, TD61U Dizzy with the Rywire prelude adapter that runs the sensors back to Dizzy, Deatschwerks 440cc High Imp. Inj.'s and I soldered pigtails on, On a H22a4 USDM block, USDM obd2 oil pump. I still installed the crank sensors down on the pulley just incase later down the road I need to revert stuff like that. I think thats it tho. Running Good right now just waiting on tune.

 

If you take the red jumper wire and plug it into the 4-pin external coil plug looping the two large diameter wires... the yellow and black/yel wire. This will power your coil inside your distributor. If your tach doesn't work, you may have to also connect the blue wire in the external coil plug to the blue wire at the distributor.

 

O i see nice thanks for the help guys, the swap seems to work great so far.

 

Well unfortunately the egr did come on, says egr insufficient lift detected, does anyone know where I can get a brand new jdm one? I also seen someone else say it can be clogged ports in the manifold, could it be the ground wire causing this? Because i noticed if i try to connect the iacv ground to the egr ground on the a23 power ground it causes the egr cel to come on instantly, but if i hook the iacv up to the valve cover it takes a long time for the egr to come on, but both sensor originally hooked up to a23 on the euro r harness, it seemed now that hooking the iacv ground and egr ground on a23 it overloading the ground and even when only the egr is hooked up it gets intermittent connection any ideas of how to fix this?

 

If you can figure this out which I am sure you can I wold like to know exactly what you did so I can do the same. Sorry I am of not much help since when I first did my euro r swap I threw out my hacked and cut up engine harness and just used my h22a4 harness.

 

I have it wired exactly the same as it was on the euro r harness, im thinking it must be the power ground might be going to more things on the a4 harness than the euro r harness causing interference, or the orange wire by the egr goes to something else causing interference, or the yellow/blue wire isnt tied to the same things on the a4 harness as the euro r like the map sensor and whatever other sensor it shares?

 

Is there any way you could trace the egr wires on the euro r harness and compare it to the a4 harness. You must be right about how it's wired in on the a4 harness insufficient lift has to do with the power or ground. I really want to see if you can figure this out and then I could wire it the same exact way as I to want to run the PCD ecu.

 

Keep in mind that these sensors must use shielded wire. While that may not keep your car from a no spark situation, it will prevent radio interference which is very important.

 

Ok so today i depinned b7 on the rywire harness going into ecu and depinned the pink wire from the euro r harness and installed it on b7 so that it goes straight to the egr plug, then I cut the ground wire from the euro r harness and connected it to a23 on the rywire harness using a crush connector, when I first did this I used a slightly bigger guage ground wire and i noticed the first time i used a crush connector it barely penetrated the a23 wire that may have been the problem or maybe the wrong guage wire, drove it 40 miles today which includes starting it 4 different times and it hasnt thrown a cel so that may be all you have to do Ill keep this updated

 

Can you please give me exactly what you did and with pictures if at all possible? Honestly sounds like you figured it out since you went through more then 2 drive cycles while driving it today.

 

Ok so ive gone 270 miles no cel for the egr so it must have either been the crappy crush connector i used for the a23 ground, you need to directly pin the pink wire from the ecu to the egr, or it was the type of wire i used. Question i heard that these are run on 93 or 94 octane in japan is that correct? Can i use that safely? Would that even benefit much?

 

Do you have a picture of this wire to A23 on the ecu plug so I can see exactly how you did it? Sorry I just like to be super thorough with installs like this. Also did you not cut any wires on your Rywire obd2a-obd2b jumper harness? I know on mine I ended up cutting two wires on it.
You can safely use 93 octane on your swap if its available to you. I know in Japan their gas is differently rated with the octane rating system they use.

 

Any update on this customs-25? I am going to be doing this to my car in the next couple days please let me know how this is all going for you.

 

Yea mine has worked perfect since rewiring it, ive put 2-3k miles on it atleast, it must have been the wrong guage wire I used or the crappy connector, or because I tapped into the orange wire on the egr solenoid on the driver side of the engine bay instead of directly into the ecu plug, it worked after I cut the whole pink wire from the euro r harness and directly pinned it into the ecu as well as the black ground wire

 

Awesome do you have any pictures of this like pictures of your rywire harness? Sorry I am just more of a visual learner and it would help out a great deal to see what you are referring to. Thanks in advance.

 

Been emailing Peter at Rywire and he thinks the reason why my swap doesn't run right is due to the fact that I am running the external coil td77u h22a4 distributor along with the crank sensor down by the oil pump. And the euro-R came with an internal coil so that could be the culprit as to why the engine has its issues.