Will the Main Relay come off the metal mounting bracket, or do I have to remove the 10-mm bolt and take the bracket out with it?

 

I just happen to have one loose right now and...

Yes you can, BUT, it looks like its such a PITA you will be better off removing the 10mm.

Which also makes it easier to unplug the harness.

Not sure why the reluctance, but each their own lol Good luck!

 

Thanks. I'll have to hire a kid from the neighborhood to get that 10mm bolt back in. If you want to be a a Honda tech, do they check if your hands are too large?

 

Im a bass player (occasionally lol) but I havent had a problem getting to the relay..

socket with an extension is all I needed.

And I didn't think you had it out already? if you did. you can see the lil latch it takes to pop it off with (that you need the 10mm removed to get good access to) so, I guess you can pop it off, then put the bracket on, then put the relay on, but thats just so much more work than getting the bolt back.

I know working upside down sucks, but it should only take a couple mins if you have the ratchet set up.

Good luck

 

I'm a bass player, too (but mostly guitar, though.) Hmmm ...

The relay is tucked up behind an interior plastic panel, so far my access is from 90 degrees to the bolt, from the vicinity of the hood latch. How'd you get a straight-on shot at it with an extension?

 

I have a del sol, so it may be a lil different. Try it with a swivel/knuckle adaptor?

(tho you should post model/ trim/ mods etc with your threads (in the future at least))

And I also play guitar more than the bass lately. Can't sing with the fat strings for some reason.. How the hell does Geddy Lee do it!?!

 

In the subject. Not many trim options that would matter.

 

I wasn't aware how simple to remove the kick panel. Removed the Main Relay and tested per service manual, it's fine. Previous owner replaced the MR and it looks brand new inside, with pristine solder joints. So probably either a bad ECU, or (?) bad coil or igniter in the distributor (no spark at plugs.).

I don't have a test harness for ECU, otherwise I would tackle the lengthy flow chart. There are specific and simple tests for coil and igniter, but who knows if the ECU is really behind a fault detected at the distributor? (The previous owner also replaced the whole distributor some time ago, or rather his reputable Honda shop did.) The '92 VX has 240k miles on it, but has been averaging 43 mpg city.

I feel I am about to kick the can and tow this car to a shop. Or, I could flip a coin and buy a known good used ECU and replace it.

 

If you can't borrow a working one, then that may be a plan. If it doesn't fix it tho, at least you can sell it back for the $80-100 that they (P28s at least) go for lol.

But you can check coil and igniter for ohms etc before that.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...blems-2919450/

This is from the FAQ (sticky at top) as no-spark is pretty common.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the "no spark" article. There's so many threads and articles, somewhat of a snipe hunt for the time-challenged.

The article mentioned it could be a bad ignition switch, but then "the engine would lack both spark and fuel".

So ... got a quick link to a DIY "do I have fuel to engine?" article?

Edit:

I looked through FAQ on fuel system, what I really want to know is:

Is my fuel pump even being activated?

(Not whether the pump is working properly, etc.) If I am not getting spark, and not getting fuel pump activation, it might point to a ground or ignition switch (or ultimately ECU). I read guys saying they can hear the pump being activated when trying to start the car, but I am hearing impaired, and also don't know what sound I am listening for.

 

Hearing impaired bass player? *must be a joke there somewhere* lol

Yeah, you should be able to hear it whirr when the key is turned to On. If you can't, then you may need a helper that can (sit in car when you click key, or listen at filler neck with the cap off)... If that dont work, then take the back seat out and put your hand on it, then turn the key to see if you can feel it vibrate for a coupla seconds with key.

Any codes, check the fuses?

 

It's one of the oldest jokes in the book. A bass player is best when seen, not heard.

Also, bass player checking in.

While we're talking about all of these checks, when you turn the key to ON(II), does the CEL come on for ~2 seconds, then turn back off?

 

I luvd that Metalocalypse where the groupies met Murderface, and when they found out he was just the Bassist, they decided to date a roadie instead! Lol

Yeah, CEL, etc

 

OP- turn the key to on, listen for a humming noise. if you hear it, your fuel pump is running. open your ecu case up. look for burn marks, leaking capacitors, etc. ecu failures are nowhere near as common as other issues with these cars, but distributor problems are very common.

 

Thanks for jumping in. Yes, the CEL comes on for ~2 seconds, then goes out.

 

Thanks, noted. A general repair shop owner, close to my house, said "It's probably your distributor, they're notorious for that." And the previous owner had the distributor replaced some time ago, by a well-known Honda-only shop. (I don't know if it is a genuine Honda distributor, or aftermarket.)

 

I checked the fuses. Since I've owned the car it has issued CEL codes 12 (EGR) and 48 (LAF or heated O2?). But it runs great, and gets ~44 mpg city (w/ 240k miles) so I was loathe to spend money fixing those CEL complaints.

 

OK, then that means your fuel pump should be priming.

You don't need the test harness, you can just put the leads into the harness with it plugged into the ECU. It's called back probing. With that, you can follow the flowchart. You should also go ahead and buy/borrow/rent a DEI/HEI spark tester, and use it.

 

Re: Spark tester, I found this article:

Part 1 -How to Test the Igniter, Ignition Coil Accord, Civic, CRV, and Odyssey

Although I think I've determined there is no spark at all, a friend even risked getting jolted by holding the plug connector in his bare hand while grounding it.

I'll take a look at the ECU harness and see what you're talking about. Doesn't require piercing any wire insulation? If the wire end tabs are exposed on the harness connectors, that seems obvious - and too simple. Why have people been clamoring for affordable test harnesses for e-ver if it's that simple? (Truly curious.)

 

no spark? problematic distributors? time to hit the junkyard. used oem, in my opinion, is WAY better than rebuilt parts store ignition components. car-part.com

 

That's fine, as long as you know the interchangeability between years/models backward and forward. I suppose a good yard can punch it into their DB and tell you everything. My young days wandering pick-n-pulls were in the '70s, finding parts for '50s and '60s cars. Hollander Interchange manuals in the county library were the bibles. Those were the days, mate.

 

This is back probing. You basically just cram it in there next to the wire. No need to cut the insulation at all.



If you aren't getting spark, then you need to test your coil and ICM.

 

Update:

Following this article:

I determined:

In Step 5 that the igniter is NOT activating the ignition coil with a triggering signal, and ...

In Step 6 that the igniter IS getting a triggering signal from the ECM.

This indicates a bad igniter. I will now take the igniter to Autozone where (allegedly, according to posts in this forum) Autozone can test the igniter themselves.

Update forthcoming ...

 

I took the igniter to Autozone and it tested failed. $49 + tax later, this car is back on the road. Thanks for the help, chaps, this forum is awesome.

I did have to grind away a bit of the new igniter before it would fit in the sled and allow the two mounting screws to engage the threads. The poor QC makes me nervous. The part comes with A.Z.'s lifetime warranty, but still ...

 

Luvta help the Honda/Bassists

Glad to see it!