Ok, so I have a '99 civic si with a swapped out B16A1 engine.
Right now it still has the Obd2 ecu so it gives me some obvious errors.
Well, I've been trying to get the right parts so it works and this has been a huge struggle for me and I need some help.

So right now I bought an Ecu through a friend of a friend. He said "Ok its a 1988-91 OBD0 chipped and socketed so it will run any ecu map you want vtecor non vtec right now I have a mugen b16 chip in it."

And me engine is a 91-95 *I think* (Please be easy on me, I'm not the smartest car person)

So does that mean I'll have to get like an obd2a to Obd0 conversion harness, or an OBd2a to Obd1 then an Obd1 to obd0 or do I have to get a complete uncut obd0 ecu harness? I'm really confused. I just want that ecu in my car.

 

The B16A1 is an ancient, OBD0 motor found in the EDM CRX.

You're over-complicating things. Forget the OBD0 ECU. Get an OBD1 ECU like everyone else, get a jumper harness, and get a basemap for your engine. Done.

 

What about the ecu I already have? I'm not a money machine. I thought what I was getting would work. But an OBD1 Ecu would work?

 

As long as you don't have to pass any plug-in tests for inspections, yes, an OBD1 ECU would work, and would be a fairly plug and play process. You might even be able to get a B16A3 ECU (93-95 Del Sol VTEC), plug it in, and go with minimal work. An OBD0 ECU would be a wiring nightmare to get it in your car. Boomslang doesn't make a conversion harness. Rywire doesn't make a conversion harness. I haven't done much digging, but considering those two (major) wiring companies don't do it, I think it's a safe bet no one does.

Also, your friend's "Mugen chip" is bullshit.

 

The thing is, I do need to pass a plug-in test for smog.

 

As an OBD2 car then you will have to shell out a very pretty penny on an engine management system that will also work with OBD2 code readers.

There are a couple but they are not cheap.

 

Then it's time for you to keep your stock ECU, and make it work.

 

Make it work? The only reason I'm putting in a new ecu is to make my check engine light go away and I need the correct ecu for my engine to do that.

 

Is it possible to make it work with a Obd0 ecu and 2 conversion harness the first being an obd2a to an obd1 and an obd0 to an obd1 and connecting them? Or am I just retarded? I don't know what to do..

 

No. Stop. You need to use the stock ECU that came with the car. You then need to pull the CEL codes, and fix them, which will most likely involve swapping a few components of that engine to their OBD2B variant.

If you have to pass a plug-in test, you have to use a proper OBD2B ECU. There's no way around that. The best match would be the original P2T ECU. Using an OBD0 or OBD1 ECU is absolutely not an option.

 

But the B16A1 is an OBD0 engine isn't it? I don't know a lot about cars, don't get me wrong. I just want to make sure my car is working correctly.

 

Doesn't matter. You need to use an OBD2B ECU. For your setup, you should be using a P2T ECU, which is what should have come stock in your car (unless you're Canadian). Yes, it will throw codes. You need to diagnose and properly fix those codes, which will most likely involve swapping a number of components from a B16A2 engine onto your B16A1.

Did you buy the car in this condition, or did you blow the original B16A2 and decide to swap in a different motor?

 

I made a mistake. It's illegal for any stand alone EFI to emulate OBDII readiness codes.

You need a piggyback system but before you can piggyback you have to do exactly as NotARacist is telling you.

Then you can do a piggy back to run the engine outside of the factory P2T maps etc.

Piggback vs Standalone ECU Tuning EFI Wiring

 

The engines are pretty nearly identical. Realistically, he doesn't even need a piggyback, unless he wants to actually tune the car.

 

I bought the car this way. I'm not sure why there was an engine swap done. There is a vtec malfunction code and a crankshaft position sensor code I think which is why I thought I needed the new ecu.

 

Rule #1: Never buy another person's project.

Post the exact codes, and we can work from there.

 

Oh I see, even better. That makes life a bit simpler.

Lucky for taking on someone else's project/swap. Could have been far worse.

 

P0117
P1337

 

Check whether the ECT and CKF sensors are plugged into the connectors.

 

I uploaded the images of the sensors being plugged in over here .
I was also reading This article and was wondering if that would at least fix that code?

 

One picture? Post your picture links into your thread, and add some text telling us what you think you're showing us.

This shows you that you can make your pics display in a post - very helpful for tech threads.

 

Yep. Imgur gives you a "BBCode" URL, which should have [im g] tags around it. Just copy/paste that into a post, and it'll post the image right here. Also, if you could use imgur's editing tools to rotate your images so they're right side up, that'd be awesome.

 

 

Post a picture of the ECT connector clearly showing the two wire colors.

Unplug the connector and inspect the connector pins and sensor.

Voltage test the ECT sensor pins with key in ON(II). What are the readings?

I don't think I see the CKF sensor connector. It has 3 wires - near alternator bracket.

Canada or U.S. 99 Civic Si?

 

The sensor related to the P1337 code should be near your crank pulley. Look around down there, and see if the sensor is even there - I don't believe an OBD0 engine would have it. This is one of the things I was referring to when I said you'd need to install certain things from the original motor. If the sensor isn't there, you can use the aforementioned bypass trick.

What colors are the two wires going to your ECT sensor?