Am I missing anything?
I have been debating on a topic for a long time. I graduate this upcoming Thursday, and have no idea what is going to happen with my car situation being that my current 5th gen has a lot of work to throw at it. I don't know if my plans on swapping with my step dad for his 6th gen is happening because either way, a new car would be needed (if we do not put money into this 5th gen). So, just in case, I have been looking up prices and stuff to replace "everything" (in quotes because I know, technically not everything) in the front, since just replacing the rotors will require me to expose a lot of the components.
So far on my list
Rockauto.com
- Front Left Half Shaft: APWI #HO8055
- Front Right Half Shaft: APWI # HO8054
- Front Right LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024674
- Front Left LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024673
- TRE (Outer, left): Beck/Arnley #1014619
- TRE (Outer, right): Beck/Arnley #1014636
- Rotors x 2: Centric Premium # 12040022
- Wheel Bearing x 2: Timken #513098
- Plus pads
Am I missing anything for the front end list?
What about a rear list? What would that consist of? Rear UCA, Front and back LCAs, Drums + pads?
-Struts/ Springs, might just go with koni's and some springs (Oranges or yellows + H&R Sports)
Front alone (Without pads +the struts/springs) comes to $304.48 without shipping included, unless RA is free
EDIT/ ADDITION: Is it worth it to throw the money into it? This was my parents "ride-it-til-it-dies" car. they did oil changes, fuel it up, and basically it. And being in high school, they gave it to me.
Currently,
- Front windshield is scratched (looks like someone turned on windshield wipers with dirt all over the window)
- Front side windows squeal, and have vertical scratches, plus regulators are bad
- Front brake rotors + pads are getting bad (rotors already below minimum)
- Struts/shocks are all shot
- almost 220k miles
- Front wiper arms are "loose" and go off the driver side and pop back on with a snapping/window chipping sound, being that it hits driver's side window
- Rear Drums + shoes will be due soon
So far on my list
Rockauto.com
- Front Left Half Shaft: APWI #HO8055
- Front Right Half Shaft: APWI # HO8054
- Front Right LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024674
- Front Left LCA: Beck/Arnley #1024673
- TRE (Outer, left): Beck/Arnley #1014619
- TRE (Outer, right): Beck/Arnley #1014636
- Rotors x 2: Centric Premium # 12040022
- Wheel Bearing x 2: Timken #513098
- Plus pads
Am I missing anything for the front end list?
What about a rear list? What would that consist of? Rear UCA, Front and back LCAs, Drums + pads?
-Struts/ Springs, might just go with koni's and some springs (Oranges or yellows + H&R Sports)
Front alone (Without pads +the struts/springs) comes to $304.48 without shipping included, unless RA is free
EDIT/ ADDITION: Is it worth it to throw the money into it? This was my parents "ride-it-til-it-dies" car. they did oil changes, fuel it up, and basically it. And being in high school, they gave it to me.
Currently,
- Front windshield is scratched (looks like someone turned on windshield wipers with dirt all over the window)
- Front side windows squeal, and have vertical scratches, plus regulators are bad
- Front brake rotors + pads are getting bad (rotors already below minimum)
- Struts/shocks are all shot
- almost 220k miles
- Front wiper arms are "loose" and go off the driver side and pop back on with a snapping/window chipping sound, being that it hits driver's side window
- Rear Drums + shoes will be due soon
I would rethink you list of parts. Beck Arnley parts are unnecessarily expensive, and there are much more affordable ways you go about this.
Is it worth it? That's up to you. You might want to let us know what you drive, and what is done to it, pictures never hurt either. For the average DIY guy, I would shy away based on the drive till it dies mentality, and the list of parts which I am quite certain is incomplete. If the shell is in good shape rust wise and paint wise, it would make a good "mechanic" special. If you are not a mechanic by trade, I would either drive it with minimal maintenance until it does in fact die, or sell it for what it is.
The final say, for you, no. It's not worth your time.
Given the type of abrasive damage on the windows, and regulator, it sounds like it is not bathed regularly, or is driven in a really dust-ridden environment. These vehicles will typically will have problems with bearing parts regardless of location on the car.
Is it worth it? That's up to you. You might want to let us know what you drive, and what is done to it, pictures never hurt either. For the average DIY guy, I would shy away based on the drive till it dies mentality, and the list of parts which I am quite certain is incomplete. If the shell is in good shape rust wise and paint wise, it would make a good "mechanic" special. If you are not a mechanic by trade, I would either drive it with minimal maintenance until it does in fact die, or sell it for what it is.
The final say, for you, no. It's not worth your time.
Given the type of abrasive damage on the windows, and regulator, it sounds like it is not bathed regularly, or is driven in a really dust-ridden environment. These vehicles will typically will have problems with bearing parts regardless of location on the car.
I would rethink you list of parts. Beck Arnley parts are unnecessarily expensive, and there are much more affordable ways you go about this.
Is it worth it? That's up to you. You might want to let us know what you drive, and what is done to it, pictures never hurt either. For the average DIY guy, I would shy away based on the drive till it dies mentality, and the list of parts which I am quite certain is incomplete. If the shell is in good shape rust wise and paint wise, it would make a good "mechanic" special. If you are not a mechanic by trade, I would either drive it with minimal maintenance until it does in fact die, or sell it for what it is.
The final say, for you, no. It's not worth your time.
Given the type of abrasive damage on the windows, and regulator, it sounds like it is not bathed regularly, or is driven in a really dust-ridden environment. These vehicles will typically will have problems with bearing parts regardless of location on the car.
Is it worth it? That's up to you. You might want to let us know what you drive, and what is done to it, pictures never hurt either. For the average DIY guy, I would shy away based on the drive till it dies mentality, and the list of parts which I am quite certain is incomplete. If the shell is in good shape rust wise and paint wise, it would make a good "mechanic" special. If you are not a mechanic by trade, I would either drive it with minimal maintenance until it does in fact die, or sell it for what it is.
The final say, for you, no. It's not worth your time.
Given the type of abrasive damage on the windows, and regulator, it sounds like it is not bathed regularly, or is driven in a really dust-ridden environment. These vehicles will typically will have problems with bearing parts regardless of location on the car.
Within the year, I replaced front UCA with Ball joints, brakes (not rotors), fixed the spark plug oil leak, just haven't had the money for the regulators being that it does not take priority over the overall mechanical aspects of the car. Just never came by the money for all of the parts for me to do the repairs, since my parents wouldn't let me get a job. This will be coming from my graduation money. And hopefully will have a summer job (looking around)
I would not call myself a true mechanic by trade, but I have the know-how and knowledge/ease of learning on the go, and have an uncle who loves to work on vehicles.
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ALDJ253
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