I just bought a type s h22a from an importer, it came with a pde-004 ecu 5-speed, euro r manifold, wire harness, Im going to put it in my 01 prelude, Ive done this swap awhile ago but I had the euro r with the usdm looking manifold and i put the crank angle sensor oil pump on and used the usdm external coil distributor and I think I did something else to the wiring. This time I want to use the internal coil distributor and no crank angle sensor and just want to make sure Im not missing anything before I start, so the pde-004 ecu should work with no modification if I use the internal coil distributor and the euro r manifold and the usdm harness thats already in the prelude? or will I need to modify the harness since im not going to have the external coil distributor, crank angle sensor?

 

Its been covered on here a few times but I will go over it once more for you. The swap you have is in fact from a CL1 Accord Euro-R, I would know i have it in my Prelude. The easiest way for you to make it work with your usdm engine harness and the internal coil td94u 8-pin euro-r distributor, is to buy a chipped p28 ecu with obd2a to obd1 jumper harness and save yourself the headache of trying to use the PDE ecu. If you go this route you will need a Rywire distributor adapter so it is plug-n-play so no cutting and splicing into your engine harness. Also you will need to use Rosko Racing's fuel rail adapter kit so you can use your h22a4 fuel rail since it has the fuel line going to the driver side of the car instead of using the euro-r fuel rail which has the fuel line fitting on the passenger side. Also purchase Rosko Racing's EGR cover plate for clearance with the use of the h22a4 fuel rail and also get his IACV adapter plate so you can install the 2 wire IACV. When you put on the h22a4 2 wire IACV remember to plug the vacuum port on the base of the intake manifold where the euro-r's 3 wire iacv plugged into, here is a picture as to what I am referring to, which is outlined in red:

Honestly what I have stated above is the best and easiest route for you to take with this swap. I was like you and tried running the euro-r ecu just to see how it would run with the factory ecu, and it was not worth all the time to wire up the euro-r EGR valve and 3 wire IACV. Plus I ended up purchasing a Rywire obd2a-obd2b ecu jumper for the PDE ecu and the car still did not run close to how well it runs on the p28 ecu. You will also get a forever illuminated check engine light for insufficient lift for the egr, the euro-r's is controlled electronically while the prelude's is controlled via vacuum line.

 

I had no idea thanks, i did this swap a few years ago but used a usdm manifold with usdm crank angle sensor and external coil distributor and it was a s spec. So I do want to use the pde-004 ecu I have because I cant afford a p28 and a tune, if i use the usdm harness all i have to do is connect the two iacv wires on that harness to the 3 wire iacv plug that i cut from the euro r harness and ground the extra wire to the chassis right? or do I have to repin it at the end of the harness where it plugs into the ecu? As for the egr can i use the usdm or will it throw a code? Or could i just cut the plug off the usdm harness and attach the 3 wire euro r plug and egr? And as for the injectors fuel rail the usdm injectors plugs fit the euro r injectors i dont need to modify them do I? I can use the euro r rail as long as I can get the fuel line to connect right?

 

Honestly you are just better off using your h22a4 ecu with your euro-r swap for right now then running the PDE ecu. Point being is that either way you will be spending cash on a Rywire obd2a-obd2b ecu jumper harness, and you still will be throwing the insufficient EGR lift code. I ran my car with the euro-r ecu with the 3 wire iacv and the EGR wired up properly and it still threw the egr code. It was just not worth it every damn 5-10 miles the code would go off causing the the car to bog down and run like crap, then I would have to pull to the side of the road and reset the ECU. Really not worth it in my honest opinion, just use your h22a4 ecu for right now and save the cash for a chipped p28 ecu.

Yes you can use the euro-r fuel rail and injectors as long as you have a fuel line that reaches to the fitting on the rail itself. Also the euro-r injectors are obd2 so yes the plugs from your h22a4 engine harness will plug right into them.

 

So I cant wire this without the rywire obd2a to obd2b adapter?

So to wire the euro r egr all you do is add 2 wires to the a4 harness going into the ecu plugs right?

Ground the extra 3rd wire for the iacv to the chassis and make sure the other 2 iacv wires are in the same pins as the pde ecu?

What about the purge control solenoid on the fuel rail do I just use the plug for the pcs that is on the firewall above the charcoal canister?

For the vtec solenoid do i only use the one sensor on that is on the euro r vtec solenoid or should I add the second sensor from the a4?

Does anyone have a link to change the wiring from external coil distributor to use the euro r internal coil distributor?

If I do all that I shouldnt need the rywire harness adapter right?

 

So I just ordered the rywire obd2a to obd2b ecu harness and the rywire external coil to euro r 8 pin internal coil wire harness, just need to figure these things out below, any help would be great.

So to wire the euro r egr all you do is add 2 wires to the a4 harness going into the ecu plugs right?

Ground the extra 3rd wire for the iacv to the chassis and make sure the other 2 iacv wires are in the same pins as the pde ecu?

What about the purge control solenoid on the fuel rail do I just use the plug for the pcs that is on the prelude firewall above the charcoal canister on the?

For the vtec solenoid do i only use the one sensor on that is on the euro r vtec solenoid or should I add the second sensor from the a4?

Does anyone have a link to change the wiring from external coil distributor to use the euro r internal coil distributor? (thats incase I dont use the rywire adapter for the internal coil distributor and end up using the usdm external coil distributor)

These are the only things I have to worry about on the euro r swap right?

 

I think you are taking the long way around and that PCD ecu is just an issue, you should have spent the money you wasted on the Rywire ecu jumper on a p28 ecu and called it a day. You will not be able to get rid of the EGR code like I have previously told you. I have wired the euro-r egr and the h22a4 egr and both still cause the check engine light to occur while running the PCD ecu.

 

Thats ok I think I can make it work, can you help me with the other questions like the pcs sensor?

 

Of course I will help you out as much as I can since I know you are dead set on getting this euro-r to run the with the factory ECU. For the purge valve solenoid I would use the one that is on your prelude near the charcoal canister. Use the Rywire distributor adapter you bouhgt it will make it a ton easier for you since you are not going with the a4 oil pump and crank sensor swap.

 

Has anyone seen this jackson racing fuel filter? Is it a regulator or can it be adjusted or Is it just a filter? My car would shutter for the first 5-10 seconds when it starts and even throw a misfire code (not often) I could never figure it out and when i filled the tank it would start and die a few times but it would only start and die that when filling the tank, the engine in it now is fully built and low compression for turbo (150 psi) it does not have the air box under the manifold for the butterfly valves and everything else on the engine is oem except the intake and exhaust, anyone else have that issue?
My guess is it could be
missing butterfly airbox under the manifold
Jackson racing fuel filter/regulator
255 fuel pump because it seems to start and die a few times after filling up

Any thoughts?

 

So i just got the rywire obd2a to obd2b ecu and the rywire external coil wiring to internal coil distributor. Ive traced all the wires down just confused on 2, on the obd2a plug A chassis harness there is a orange wire in port a7 but I cannot trace where it goes in the engine bay and that port it supposed to have a pink wire from the jdm egr plug any ideas where that orange wire goes?

 

For your obd2a to obd2b Rywire jumper you will need to cut two wires on it for the car to run properly