I'm new here, and I've been browsing the forum today and have referred to it a few times in the weeks past as I attempt to fix my 1995 Accord EX.

My concern, and why I'm posting here, is that I've replaced some suspension components even though my car had no suspension symptoms, and now that I've replaced these, now my car has developed suspension noises.

The only reason for replacing these things is I was replacing calipers, brake pads and those pesky captive rotors--noticed a couple of torn boots, dried up end link bushings...basically just replaced a few things that were inexpensive and easy to do given that I had to take the steering knuckle off. The ball joints that had minor torn boots had no wear and still contained grease, for example. The end links were dried and crusty but the link itself had no corrosion.

OK... so what I've replaced: Both front upper control arms (moog), both front sway bar end links w/bushings (moog), tie rod dust boot covers (Honda--OEM), lower ball joint (O'reilly's brand--master something); front wheel bearings moog) plus calipers (wearever from Advance Auto), rotors (also wearever) and front brake pads (wearever premium ceramic). Also recently replaced exhaust (bosal) but muffler shipped later than other parts so just installed the muffler yesterday.

PROBLEM: hearing some low pitched creaking or a very slight sa if it were to rattle but I'd hesitate to call it a rattle since it doesn't carry on--not very loud--mostly when driving slow on approach to driveway--our road has a number of poorly repaired potholes. I didn't notice any sounds driving to town (12 miles) and back the first two days. But now I'm avoiding driving it.

CURRENT THOUGHTS: I just now in the forum heard of "clocking" the upper control arm. My manual didn't mention it. I tightened them roughly to shape, but tightened them after installing but before lowering the car. Also, the Moog sway bar end links don't have a metal insert in the bushings themselves like the Honda OEM ones do. I tightened the nut for a very long time and didn't achieve the torque setting, and I thought it was because of not having that metal inner piece. Maybe I just need to keep tightening that.

OTOH: Could have I, in replacing parts that had no symptoms changed things enough that other components are now turning faulty?

I can't look at the car until after 9pm when my husband gets home to watch the kids (no, it's not being driven currently), so I'm just trying to get feedback on what all to check when I pull it into the garage tonight.

BTW...most of what I come up with when searching pertain to symptoms prior to replacing parts, or sounds that were not solved by replacing parts, not sounds that were not existent and that develop afterwards.

Thanks for your assistance!

 

OK all... I didn't realize it last week when I was replacing parts, but the Haynes manual fails to specify torque for the front sway bar (stabilizer) end links, as far as I could tell. It occurred to me this evening when I put the car on jackstands to look over the new parts and see if anything else looked awry that I had intended to check on that but did not.

I've now seen it here and elsewhere that the torque for the front stabilizer end links w/bushings should be 14 ft-lbs, so I went with that. I had intended previously to see if the torque would be the same even with the different Moog endlinks.... if I still had weird noises, I'd be calling them tomorrow, but I don't. I also tightened up the upper control arm pivot bolts and now my car rides great!

Only thing I'd like to take care of is swapping out the brake hardware that came with the brake pads with the ones that came with the caliper. I did that on the passenger side, but not the driver's side, and the driver's side is making a sound that I directly attribute to the brake hardware.

THEREFORE, my advice is... if you buy the Wearever Premium Ceramic brake pads with the brake hardware specifically because you want the hardware, you might be disappointed. I had an awful time trying to get the brake pads inserted into the Wearever hardware. After battling the driver's side, I decided, well, my calipers came with hardware, try that, and the passenger side brake pads when in with ease. I didn't swap the driver's side hardware, and it's making a racket. I would have done it tonight, but didn't really have time. I'm happy with the brake pads themselves, though.

All is good--only reason I posted earlier was to potentially get other opinions before heading out to the garage... in case there was something I missed.

 

Glad you got it fixed and posted the fix. The internet needs more people like you.

And yes...clocking bushings is important. Especially with aftermarket rubber bushings.

Moog components are hit or miss. Next time, try rockauto.com for parts...especially brake parts.

Or try bernardiparts.com if you want real deal honda parts.

 

Yeah rubber bushings need clocking. I've had suspension noise after removing the arms and it was always fixed by tightening the suspension bolts more.

 

I appreciate the comments and advice. My car stopped making noises and then I started to hear a little noise again after a couple of days (maybe 50 miles total). My car passed inspection "with flying colors" and all seemed good, but now I have the car on jackstands for yet another problem, this time with the brakes/brake lines, which I'm going to open a thread about; in the meantime, I'll check to see if for some reason any of the nuts are loosening up during the drive. Or maybe there's another problem that's surfacing. Hopefully not. With all wheels now off, I do not see any obvious issues with the rear suspension components, at least.

 

What did you torque the suspension bolts to (the large ones that actually pass through bushings)?