can a single cylinder liner be replaced? I cant afford to sleeve the complete block I was not expecting this.

I looked under a magnifying lens and don't see any cracks on the outer sleeve. just the inside liner. I see those replacement sleeves on ebay and other pages but cant find if its possible to replace a single sleeve.
its for a stock itr motor.

fucked up but my bad luck continues with every ******* build...

 

The way I see it, I would just save to get it sleeved and this is why.

$275 for liners
$75x4 to machine block for each sleeve
$85 to deck
$90 to bore and hone

this are numbers from a local machine shop.

Your looking at $750 ish plus tax and I don't know about you, but I don't trust any machine shop around me to do the job. Or just get another stock sleeve block.

How did a stock motor crack a sleeve?

 

Yeah it's possible to replace a single sleeve. Although you might want to run Oversize pistons so as to get same tolerances through out.

 

How far does the crack go down the sleeve?

Is CSS possibly an option?

Did you have any detonation going on? Weird a stock sleeve cracked on ya.
Sorry to hear about your luck. I know you've been having some issues for a minute now.

 

CSS will do absolutely nothing for him as that is completely auxiliary. Honda blocks aren't designed for single sleeve replacement. The right way to do it is replace all 4 sleeves or to go full aftermarket sleeves. Most likely detonation caused this issue.

 

motor was boosted and piston broke. Didnt see it when i bought the motor...
It goes about half inch in.

 

Cheapest is just to get another block. L's blocks are dirt cheap.

 

Ls block is not same deck height

 

$leeve it like the other said.

This is not having bad luck. Purchasing a used engine that's been built/boosted/beat on is always a gamble. I avoid the "deals" and get virgin oem motors from reputable sources. The days of tripping over B/D/H stuff in cherry shape is gone.

LS, B20 and B18C have the same deck height btw.

 

yea im seeing most of these b series are beat to **** now. unless its a jdm cherry motor.

its tough to find a used good motor now

deck height not according to this

Honda B-Series Compression Calculator by ZealAutowerks

 

I might have found a stock motor to replace it with. crossing my fingers that its good...

 

Less than 1mm isn't going to make much difference. Everybody runs 89mm cranks in b18c's, even with aluminum rods if that makes a difference.

 

Stock type-r stock ecu. It will make a difference for emissions

 

stock type-r rebuild
b18c block Cracked sleeve
Had to settle for a b18c1 block that has minor scuffing on the bottom of cylinder bores from failed bearings.
Im using brand new pistons and rings. Npr with hastings rings usdm p73 pistons
It is already at the upper limit of bore. 81.05-81.07mm
Bore limit is 81.07mm
So if i hone it again it will most likely set it past bore limit.
Would that be ok since npr have different expansion rate from stock pistons?

How much is usually taken off during a basic cylinder hone?

Its pretty tough to find clean b series parts had to settle for what was available dont have time to wait around for 6 months or 500 dollars to spend on an ebay bare block.

 

The best thing to do would be get a set of 81.5mm pistons and have the block bored 0.020". You're not gonna want more than just a couple thousandths piston to wall with cast pistons. Usually, about 0.0035 - 0.0043" on low silicon 2618 alloy (JE, CP, Etc.) forged typical turbo build and just a touch less with a high silicon 4032 (Supertech, Mahle) alloy. Cast hypereutectic pistons require even less clearance and especially if N/A. That said, I've known people to run pretty absurd clearance on 4g63s with stock cast pistons. LOL.

You need to measure your piston at the proper reference point on the skirt. Probably about a half inch up from the bottom with a 3-4" mic and then measure your bore with a bore gauge and subtract the piston measurement. If you are in the realm of what factory spec is and the cylinders aren't too bad, hand honing will work. Hand honing doesn't usually take off much material. Not like a sunnen. If you have grroves or scratches that you can feel in the liners, then you're probably screwed.

 

Pistons were already pressed on the rods.. and the itr block was honed before i found the cracked wall.

 

I would honesty just acquire a new block and not deal with a cracked block. That crack will only increase with pressure and time.

 

do people even read anymore? wtf...

 

If the sleeve Is cracked, I don't think honing or boring is gonna save it. Assuming the crack is all the way through the liner.

Why not a low mileage jdm b20 block from an importer?

 

 

to much piston 2 wall. i wouldnt run...or resleeve it with darton dry sleeve
at next time..inspect the block at first..then order pitsons

 

Your gonna probably spend as much trying to save that block as you would starting with a fresh block. Just saying...
But good luck anyways.

I looked again at the picture of the crack in your other thread. The crack is completely through the liner/sleeve.
That means no amount of boring or honing is gonna clean it up.
Sleeve or replace. Those are your options.

 

I don't think a stock ITR ecu is gonna care much about the small difference in deck height unless they actually inspect the block stamp for emission testing in your area.
But I could be wrong.
It should run just fine.
Think about the ITR guys that rebuild and deck the block and mill the head. Same concept right?

 

yep. I inspected the block many times but for whatever reason could not see the crack.
and machinist didn't see it either.

the picture is a really good closeup. with a phone microscope.
the walls have few scuffs on them so the crack kinda blended in with those. I thought it was a scuff on the wall not a crack..

im looking for another block. the one I was gonna get also had cracked wall. wasting time with these b series parts
they are just too old and most are blown the **** out from people doing stupid **** to them and then selling on craigslist being shady.

 

timing is off. and you know. people will pay like 300 dollars more for a block stamped b18c vs b18b... you all know what im talking about lol
cuz a b18c block is much better than b18c1 block or b18b block.

I don't want to deal with mismatched parts I rather have everything what it should be.

its my daily not a project car I need this thing bone stock and reliable.
del sol is my project car I mix and match parts on that one