Hi, I have a 2000 accord and when I accelerate to get on the interstate my it won't exceed 4,500 rpm. It will stay at 4500 and won't shift up into the next gear. I'm completely lost. The only codes that show are showing are air fuel mix. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea what would cause this? Thanks!

 

Fix the A/F issue per the diagnostics for the code you have retrieved.
Car is in limp mode, PCM will not allow the engine to rev.

 

I tool my wife's 96 Accord Wagon to the dealer to inspect the front end and engine mounts. On the way out, I doubled back because I was limiting at 5k RPM.
The mech said it may be a cat conv. and wanted $125 to diagnose.

There are NO CEL OR CODES!

Another forum (I spent most of Saturday searching...) says a BENT OIL PAN can limit the flow and put the limiter in effect WITHOUT GIVING A CEL or CODE!

I just got back from the dealer (Capitol Honda San Jose) and they tell me there is "NO PROBLEM." WTH?????!!!!!
Quote on Receipt: "...found vehicle working as designed, this is normal. This is a 4 cyl engine. 5000 RPMS is Not Normal Driving Condition for this car."

How the heck am I supposed to merge onto the Freeway???!!!
Is a car supposed to LOSE POWER at Full Throttle???!!!

What is this a lawn mower? Sure runs like one.

Any suggestions would be helpful. The oil pan IS DENTED so I plan to try to straighten it through the Drain Plug. May not work.

May be able to UN-DENT without removing the Exhaust Header???

Also: If it's Low Oil Pressure possibly related to the VTEC, and the OIL Light never lights (except check)... shouldn't I get a VTEC Fault Code?

Can the Vtec Pressure Sensor Cause a Limit at 5k without telling us why??? Maybe so...

SUGGESTIONS WELCOME! THANKS!!!


Stan P.
please email: stanplock@att.net

I want to take the wagon to Yosemite in a few weeks. Or squeeze 5 people in my Civic for 4 hours each way.

_______________

UPDATE: The Accord wagon has a Bolt where the Vtec Pressure Sensor should be.
If there is No Pressure Sensor... What is triggering Limp Mode?
Can it be the Oil Pressure Idiot Light Sensor???
_________________
I connected an AMP Meter to the Vtec Solenoid and it draws .8A from 12V or above 2500 RPM.
If I momentarily disconnect the Current Meter, the CEL Lights and I no longer get Current above 2500 RPM and the Engine's POWER DROPS considerably.
So I assume the Vtec has pressure and is working fine... (but I still don't have a sensor).

I suppose I'll hold off on fixing the oil pan dent and manually test the O2 sensors, TPS, VSS???, Air Cleaner, Engine GND, Plugs, Cap, Wires, etc...

If the VSS were bad, wouldn't the speedometer quit? Or a code be given?
Or do I need to check the VSS too - maybe to the ECU only?
Does VSS give a code?
Maybe I'll just unplug stuff and see what happens...
May need a pressure gauge to check for clogged CAT.
Dealer didn't do any diagnostics at all.
I have had this happen at least 4 times I can remember where mechanics Denied an OBVIOUS problem.
1. Bought car from dealer. Could not fix BADLY unbalanced front tire. (Likely rotor bent.)
2. Transmission has no second gear after rebuild (AAMCO) test driver says it's ok then fixed a spring inside.
3. Timing Belt installed, balancer off a tooth. Sounds/ vibrates like a truck. "Oh, it's just an old car. They all run like that."
Not before he worked on it. Fixed at dealer got 1/2 refund.
4. Pep Boys estimated $1800 for front end including steering rack. I found the Nut at the end of the Rack was Loose. (May unscrew during tow-in adjustment. But the keeper washer was in place... So how did it unscrew without turning? )
Most parts recommended were fine.
5. Left Capitol Honda - Front end inspection (from Pep boys #4) - Now vehicle limits at 5k RPM. Dealer says this is NORMAL.
What next...?

Just thinking... *****I may have also had Dealer Change OIL when this started.*****
(lost receipt)
I might try adding HEAVIER OIL.
(Back to that theory... Maybe they put Thin Oil in a motor with 220,000 miles.)
________

OBDII Sensor shows secondary O2 sluggish.. but OK after warm up. Still can't rev above 5k.

How can I monitor oil Pressure... Across the switch sensor, I guess...

Reader is better because I know if the ECU is getting good signals.

Can I check Vss & Oil Pressure?
Still investigating...

My roommate has a OBDII Bluetooth (or Wifi also available)! SO COOL!!!
I ordered one ASAP! Only $23!!! WOW! MUST HAVE!!!
And a BT to USB adapter to use my laptop.

Now, I'll get to the bottom of this!

I can use my roommate's while waiting.
O2's are OK. Need to check TPS, VSS, etc.

I'll post what I find...???

THANKS!

Stan P.

 

This is So COOL!

I just went for a spin running TORQUE OBD2 with the Track Recorder.
($20 for reader and app was $10)

I clearly saw the Throttle Position Sensor holding back at low voltage while I held the pedal to the floor for several seconds.

I'll replace the TPS and see if that does it...

I didn't see an OBD2 reading for OIL PRESSURE anywhere Yet.

Also doesn't show Vtech on.

 

Update:
Replaced the TPS. NO FIX!
Replaced Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires (not plugs yet.) NO FIX!
Cleaned Battery Cable Connection at Chassis GND. NO FIX!


STUMPED!!!

I suppose I might disconnect the downshift cable and maybe it will stay in a Higher gear. And not exceed 5k RPM.
That would be better than Losing Power at full throttle. But still is not what the car was designed to do.

It should rev to 7-8 K then shift down like it Used to. Like all cars do.

Any insights are appreciated.

 

Was it doing this before you went to the dealer ?

 

NOPE!

If I force the gearshift to stay on LOW, it won't go above 5,200 RPM.

Lots of people give that same number. Seems like a REV Limit.

I'm monitoring everything now and have changed the major parts.

Maybe the tranny TCU is telling the engine's ECU something...???

I disconnected the Tranny Down-Shift Cable to see if it would simply shift UP a gear instead of revving.

It seems to stay in the Lower gear LONGER with the Cable off. Instead of up-shifting to get a lower RPM. So the problem may be with the TRANNY...???

I did an oil change at the dealer... May be something there also...?

My 2 Civics go to red-line all the time. And are Much Easier to work on. This Accord USED TO. As opposed to what the "experts" say.

Clue: My 98 Civic will rev limit if I disconnect the VTEC Pressure Switch. So there may be something to the Vtec Oil Pressure Rev Limit on the Wagon also.
EXCEPT: The wagon has NO Vtec Pressure Switch and No Connector for one.

Also, the Civic runs OK past 5k RPM with the Vtec Solenoid Disconnected but does not give a CEL or code. The Wagon does give a code for the solenoid but has no sensor.
Yet it acts like the Civic with the Sensor disconnected.

I'm looking for an oil pressure Gauge (NOT Switch) that connects to the missing Vtec Oil Pressure port. The block sensor is harder to get to.

Best Wishes,
Stan P.

 

OOPS!
The tranny was more than 1 qt over full. I was using a Turkey Baster with 3" of surgical tubing to drain the excess fluid and accidentally dropped the 3" hose into the Automatic Tranny filler hole.

I tried to fish it out... No Luck. Car seems to drive OK.

Is anyone familiar with the internal fluid flow and can tell me if it will damage anything to leave the hose inside???

I guess I'll run it until I need to take it apart.

Is there any better solution???

PS. It didn't help my rev limit problem either.

Update:
AHA! I took the Vtec Pressure switch from my 98 Civic and screwed into my 96 Accord which doesn't have this sensor. Couldn't monitor W/ odb or find a metric fitting for a real Oil Pressure Gauge. (Why is that?) Anyway...
The Switch stayed CLOSED all the time. Even if I force the Vtec Solenoid to 12V and reved past 3,000.
But the Civic OPENED (w/ same sensor) at idle when I manually engaged the solenoid.
I could also hear a slight change in engine sound - Vtec on.

SO... I'm back to Low oil Pressure. No help from the OBD2 Sensors that have NO OIL PRESSURE MEASUREMENT.

Oil Pressure measuring should be a REQUIREMENT!
And it's a PAIN to adapt to metric fittings too. And not easy to access or change.

So I'll probably just pull the oil pan, remove the dents and inspect screen for clogs.

Too bad the wagon didn't have the vtec pressure switch. I would have known this from the start.
Had to borrow one from the Civic to find out. Finally.

Hope this fixes it...!

Thanks,
Stan P.