Trying to help out a family member on some issues with a 1998 Honda Accord with 4cylinder and AT. They claim that the symptoms started in the past couple of weeks. The first symptom is a road noise sort of sound, almost sounds like tire tread noise on road. The tires are new, has had them for about 6 months, but this noise just started. Tread is good, so I do not think it is that.

The second issue is that the vehicle is sucking fuel down pretty bad. Along with that, it is difficult to get up to 75mpg on the freeway, and anything over that is almost impossible. I did smell the exhaust and it did not smell odd - I know a bad CAT will smell like eggs.

No CELs, etc. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

Bump... would a bad CAT not necessarily trigger a CEL? The vehicle has no CEL, but the performance issues sort of point to a bad CAT? Thoughts? Thanks.

 

If the car has over 100K miles, check the wheel bearings. If the noise can be isolated to a corner, loosen the axle nut and retorque. If the nut moved quite a bit and/or the noise was reduced, most likely the wheel bearing is worn and will need to be replaced.

Does the CEL/D4 and other warning lamps illuminate when the car is turned to II(ON), before starting?

Not all codes will illuminate the warning lamps, beg/borrow/steal an OBDII code reader and check for any stored codes. Verify the ECU memory fuse is not blown. IIRC on the 98-02 cars this fuse is located in the driver side kickpannel area.

Verify the air filter is clean.
Verify the battery connections are clean and tight.
Verify the engine grounds are clean and tight.
Verify temp gauge works/warms up.
Verify the last work done on the vehicle, doesn't matter what it is even if the windows were washed.

Rotten egg is usually from high sulfur content in the fuel. Or a fault in the A/F ratio. The car is most likely running rich, you will need to find out why and correct the problem. An overly rich condition can cause the secondary combustion in the catalyst to cause a meltdown and failure of the internal structure.

 

If the car has over 100K miles, check the wheel bearings.
200k MILES. WHEEL BEARINGS ARE NEW, LESS THAN 6 MONTHS OLD

If the noise can be isolated to a corner, loosen the axle nut and retorque. If the nut moved quite a bit and/or the noise was reduced, most likely the wheel bearing is worn and will need to be replaced.

REALLY SOUNDS LIKE ROAD NOISE, NOT SURE... THOUGH, WILL LOOK. DIFF BEARINGS WOULD SOUND LIKE A WHINE OR GROWL CORRECT??

Does the CEL/D4 and other warning lamps illuminate when the car is turned to II(ON), before starting?

WILL CHECK INTO THIS

Not all codes will illuminate the warning lamps, beg/borrow/steal an OBDII code reader and check for any stored codes. Verify the ECU memory fuse is not blown. IIRC on the 98-02 cars this fuse is located in the driver side kickpannel area.

HAVE ONE, WILL CHECK

Verify the air filter is clean.

BRAND NEW

Verify the battery connections are clean and tight.

CLEAN AND TIGHT

Verify the engine grounds are clean and tight.

CLEAN AND TIGHT

Verify temp gauge works/warms up.

WORKS

Verify the last work done on the vehicle, doesn't matter what it is even if the windows were washed.

OIL CHANGE

Rotten egg is usually from high sulfur content in the fuel. Or a fault in the A/F ratio. The car is most likely running rich, you will need to find out why and correct the problem. An overly rich condition can cause the secondary combustion in the catalyst to cause a meltdown and failure of the internal structure.

I COULD **NOT** SMELL A ROTTEN EGG SMELL, THUS I WAS NOT SURE IF IT WAS THE CAT OR NOT... WHAT WOULD MAKE THE ENGINE RUN RICH WITHOUT THROWING A CEL??? THANKS AGAIN!

 

It's possible you have a stuck caliper.

 

An IR thermometer would be great at finding which brake was sticking(hotter than the rest).

 

I really don't think that that may be the issue. It is not pulling to one side or the other. You can let go of the wheel at 50mph and it drives straight and true...

 

That would be true of the front, but the back may not cause a pull. Again it just needs to be a slight dragging.

 

Bad alignment? It won't necessarily cause the car to pull, but it will definitely show the symptoms you are describing if its out on the back end. New tires won't necessarily show uneven wear either. When was the last time it was aligned?

 

Ok, dumb *** never came by and basically drove the vehicle until the other day it refused to start, so now they need help... anyways, could someone please provide info as to what may be causing it? They indicated that a cel is being thrown, will read it this weekend, but absent of that, I was told when they try to start the motor, the lights do not dim, (I am not sure if the fuel pump engages, have not been able to ask), but no clicking from the solenoid. Any idea what may be the cause? Would this cause have been he uinderlying issue with the poor gas mileage, not getting up to speed? Thanks.