My 2000 civic started having an intermittent miss and would start chugging down the road. the next day, before i could get it to a shop, it died on the way to work and would not start. the car was running fine before this. It has 150 k miles and dont know if the timing belt was ever changed as I purchased it used.

2000 honda civic lx
150 k miles
manual transmission

 

Before this goes anywhere, should probably ask what are your expectations of us? Then how mechanically inclined are you? And do you have tools?

After those questions are answered I'll reply back with take the valve cover off so you can pull the top timing belt cover off to verify that it's still in one piece and not snapped/broken/ripped.

 

Also, is this a no-crank problem or a cranks-but-won't-start problem?

 

@ Tom and Ron, honestly I don't know how you guys do it sometimes. I mean, the complete and total lack of information and the fact that most will make a thread before even attempting to diagnose anything is beyond me. You guys deserve some eBeers for this.

OP - Was the engine making any unusual noises?
Did it make unusual noises right before it stopped running?
What does it do now, does it crank(spin) but doesn't run, or does it not crank(locked)?
If it does crank, have you checked spark, compression and fuel pressure?
If it doesn't crank, are the dash lights lighting normally?
Does the starter make a "click/tick" noise?

 

I have changed a timing belt before. not a fun job. car did not make noises except it chugged the day before and then today just before it died. engine turns over but does not start. havnt removed the valve cover yet.
will check compression....

 

Check whether fuel pump primes and for bright white spark at the plugs.

Any CEL codes?

 

Since you say it "chugged" and then it stopped, it sounds more like a fuel delivery issue.

Please check the fuel pressure at fuel rail.

 

just removed distributor cap. WOW. one contact looks bent, grey dust everywhere. rotor in bad shape. will change those and post results.

 

Ahhh... now where getting somewhere

 

Cool.

Get good quality parts - preferably OEM - and while there might as well replace the wires and plugs of you haven't in the last 2 years.

Good luck!

 

I know you have probably isolated your problem to being spark related by the sounds but I thought I should broach the reason I was starting with checking the timing belt and not jumping to the usual 3 of spark, fuel and compression (oxygen).

You said you didn't know when the timing belt was last done and that the car just quit on you. If the timing belt breaks it does pretty much that and instead of pushing you towards cranking the motor anymore (compression test etc), I figured the first step would be to be sure the timing belt is still intact. Then you can safely move to the other more typical steps of a no start diagnosis.

Suggesting cranking the motor with a blown timing belt can potentially be more damaging.

I'm posting this purely as an FYI being I'm not sure if you will be doing that timing belt any time soon and the next time it just quits on you.... You may want to keep this info in mind before you go about cranking the motor to check compression, noid lights, spark etc.

I'm glad in this case it's not the timing belt as that can be a serious job with pulling the head to lap in a new valve or two.

 

The problem was that the set screw for the rotor came out. The rotor was cracked and one of the points on the dist cap was bent back. Never seen anything like it. Sorry I did not get back to this earlier, life has a way of getting in the way. Thank you for all your suggestions. You guys are the best.