To make a very long story short I had issues with my Y8 and I swapped it out for a Y7 and kept my Y8 intake. I was able to get it started once but not since.
Here are my CEL CODES: P1298, P1509, Also sometimes getting P0700 and p1759 which are ECU and linear solenoid. Do I need to swap ECU's to a Y7 ECU? I did have it started and running on a Y8 ECU... this guy needs a

 

BTW: Compression is good. Spark is Good. Fuel pressure is Good...

 

You need a Y7/auto ECU. The VTEC code is expected. Make sure the IACV is plugged in.
Reset ECU to see which codes return.

Did you mean P1758?

 

Ron,
Probably did mean P1758. The IACV is plugged in. I read a thread before I posted this one and the guy was saying to ohm the IACV, which I did with my terrible Multimeter and results inconclusive... Will update when I test the Y7 ECU. Thank you

 

Try resetting ECU first, though the VTEC code will definitely return until you have a Y7/auto ECU.

P1758 is for lock-up control solenoid valve B, but verify code number.

 

So I just pulled codes: P0113 and P1768 <<< That was the code that I mistakenly remembered as 1759. By "Reset the ECU" do you mean clear the codes?

 

Yes, clear the codes.

P1768 is the linear solenoid. Check whether it's plugged in, if the code returns.

 

No-start:

Does the fuel pump prime. When you turn key to ON(II), does the CEL remain on steady with and without service connector jumped.

 

The linear solenoid is plugged in and the code returns only if i turn the ignition off and back on after clearing the codes. Yes, the fuel pump primes and shuts off. I am getting 40psi after the filter. When I turn the key on the CEL comes on, off for a half second and back on.

 

Check for swapped sensor connectors. Make sure all sensors match with the connector wire colors.

Also check spark at the plugs. Is it bright white?

 

Just installed Y7 ECU. Still getting codes 113, 1298, 1509. I still need to check the things you told me in your last post.

 

Check whether fuse 15 is blown (P1298).

Does your IACV connector have 2 or 3 wires (P1509)?

Make sure the IAT connector is plugged in (P0113).

Post pictures as part of your answers.

 

Fuse 15 was blown, good call. I have my battery light again! I am still missing my oil pressure light. My IACV is a 3 wire. Again you were right, the IAT sensor was unplugged so the car could "Breath." I don't have the ability to get pics from my phone to the PC, but I'm working on that.

 

Post pictures of the IACV connector and it's three wires.

Monitor fuse 15 to see if it blows again.

 

The 3 wire plug

 

Plugged in

 

Do you have a multimeter?

 

Yes, I have a cheap one but my dad has a Fluke

 

What multimeter do you have? Do you know how to use it?

 

I just retested my spark and the color seems to be more of a orange and blue. This test was done by sticking a screw driver into the wires and holding close to the valve cover. Is that the recommended way?

 

I have a cheap multi-meter from Harbor Frei***. I believe I know how to use it... What should I be checking?

 

Check spark with a properly gapped spark plug. Spark should be bright white. Click the Spark link in my signature.

You risk blowing the coil using your method.

 

Just tested all wires with the plug in and they seem even more orange and weak. Would the coil be your first guess?

 

Do you know where the ECU is? You need to unplug some ECU connectors to do voltage and ground tests. The voltage tests use the DCV setting (20V scale). The ground tests use the lowest Ohm setting (200 scale).

 

Did you read the spark test procedure in my signature and follow it? Describe what you did.

Does the starter crank the engine strongly with key in ON(III)?