It's a long story and I'll try to keep it short and simple. 97 civic with d16z6 swap.

1. My car burns blue smoke ONLY. I do a compression test and cylinder 4 compression rises when I pour oil in the spark plug hole. I replace all 4 sets of piston rings but don't replace my head gasket.

2. Car turns on but now blows water out of the tailpipe. ONLY out of cylinder 1.

3. I replace head gasket but don't replace my ARP head studs.

4. Car turns on but blows the same amount of water. Still only cylinder 1.

4. I replace head gasket and use black RTV sealant and new ARP studs.

5. Car turns on but blows the same amount of water from cylinder 1.

6. I pull the head off and examine cylinder 1 closely and find this :





Cylinder 1 sleeve





Cylinder one on the head ( same exact spot)

I bought a used head for 100$ with 60k miles on it. I also have another new head gasket (fel-pro) and copper spray.

Q. My main question has a yes or no answer. Will the head gasket seal with a new head, a new head gasket, and new sealant, even though cylinder 1's sleeve has that defect?

If not, what are my options? Honda OEM gasket? Sandpaper the sleeve? Machine the block? Quick steel? Swap in my d15b2 block? I can't really afford to have the block machined at this point in time but I would like to know if that is my ONLY option.

This is my daily driver so I'm kinda desperate at this point. Any responses are appreciated.

EDIT:Changed divot to defect. Will be updating the picture to better show the defect.





Emphasis on the defect.

 

What did you use the RTV black on? Did you get the head surfaced at a machine shop? What kind of head gasket did you use when you replaced it?

 

I used an extremely thin film first on the block and then another film on top of the gasket. The gasket is a MLS fel-pro each time. This is the third fel-pro I have purchased. I have not had the head surfaced at a machine shop.

 

Did you torque it per the manual instructions? 3 step process? Did you check the head for warpage?

Edit: I tried to goole "divet" but theres no car term for it. Circle what it is you are talking about.

 

Yes the nuts were torqued in a 3 step process, going from 1-10 in the correct order as they are specified in the manual, to a total of 6o ft-lbs. I examined the head myself and that is the only defect visible on cylinder 1.

NOTE: The car did not burn water up until this point and it has run a maximum of 1 minute with the blown head gaskets. I don't think it warped, but I maybe wrong. It just hasn't had time to warm up at all.

 

It looks like the sleeve is separating from the block itself there. I wouldn't trust that block to get me to and from anywhere reliably.

Tony, he spelled it wrong. It's a divot. Golfing term, but people use it for other things, too. It's basically just a dent.

 

The picture does not quite do it justice. It's just a dent in block surrounding the immediate area of sleeve. Is the block trash because of this?

And in regards to divot, thanks for the clarification. Not sure why spell-check didn't catch it.

 

Oh I see it. I also see hairline cracks, and as I said, it looks like the sleeve is separating from the block. If I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing, I'd throw that thing away. It's done.

 

I actually did not know what you were talking about until I looked at it closer and I think you're right. Thanks for the good eye.

Just sad to trash it because I paid $1000 for the engine. At least I can salvage the vitara pistons and eagle rods.

 

As long as they aren't damaged. Just make sure there isn't any blueing on the rods (exactly what it sounds like, blue discoloration of the metal itself), especially near the crank journals. Also, that being said, I'm not a frankenmotor guru (or fan, to be honest), but I don't believe you can use Z6 internals in a B2. There's a 5.5mm difference in the stroke, and a 5mm difference in the deck height. If I'm looking at it right in my brain, Z6 internals would want to make sweet, sweet love to your B2 valves, and we all know how that story ends.

With shattered valves, broken pistons, and ruined wallets.

 

I bolded the torque value used. I am pretty sure the ARP head studs which you said in the OP were used require more clamping force. Did you read the ARP instructions?

 

I was just thinking a strict head swap. Keeping the b2 internals and selling the z6 internals.

 

Yes the ARP instructions were stock sequence up to 60 ft-lbs.

 

Ah, so selling the "salvaged" Vitara setup, and dropping the Z6 head on the B2 block? That might be...well, like I said, I'm not a fan of frankenmotors. If you're on a tight budget, you'd probably be better served by selling the Vitara setup, selling the B2, and buying a known working complete Z6 to drop in.

 

This sounds bad, what would cause this to happen?

Looking at forums through my phone sucks.....

 

Simplest answer..

HEAT

 

Heat, or improper install, or excess stress.

 

How many times have the studs been torqued? They may be stretched out as well.