My old car was totaled and just picked up this 95 Accord Ex, 232k, from craigslist. Guy I bought it from was knowledgeable enough, I think he knew about this issue. Sort of bummed about that. It didn't show up after test driving for 20 minutes, only on the way home.

So the light flashes, I pull over, cut the engine off and immediately back on, light stays off for another 5 minutes, comes on, repeat.

Once, the light was flickering at idle, after about 30 minutes of driving.

So of course, took it to the shop, they replaced the switch, still have the same problem. Took it back this morning asking them to replace the oil pump, and got a call back saying they didn't think it was the oil pump but the main bearings, which would require a new engine.

I'm confused by that, because there hasn't been a single engine knock, or noise otherwise. Based on what I've read, if there's an issue with the bearings or a serious issue with oil pressure, I should be hearing it in the engine. Instead, I've driven a good 65 miles without any noticeable engine issue. Only the light coming on blinking, and the one time flickering at idle.

Any advice? Thanks in advance.

 

It could have low oil pressure but hasn't risen to the point of causing enough damage to make a noise. You need to hook up a mechanical gauge and check actual pressure.

 

Makes sense. Just heard from the shop, they said when they changed the switch, 20psi on cold idle. Didn't test it after warm up.

If the bearings are on their way out, how long can I drive it before the engine implodes? I've seen some people say put thicker oil in and drive it till it dies. I only need the car to last a year.

 

I'm sure someone has checked the oil level at some point

I'd like to know what the pressure test when the car is warm is? 20 psi cold isn't that far off from the 10 psi when warm and at idle.

Next, inspect the wire going to the switch and be sure it is not grounding on something along the way.....a "nick" on the wire that might be touching another piece of metal.

Last, there have be reports of aftermarket sending units not working properly.

 

Yeah the oil level is fine, and very clean as well.

I wanted to know the same, I'm a little peeved the shop didn't test it warm. I asked them to the second time, and they wanted $45 for the test, said it probably wasn't worth it because they put a new switch in and it was still triggering. I'll inspect the wiring tonight, and if that's okay I'm hoping it's a bad sending unit. Been driving it for 10 minutes at a time and no lights in a while, avoiding high RPMs.

 

Do you know what oil is in the engine?
Maybe a simple change to a quality 5W-30 will fix the 'problem'.

 

I wish it were that. Running Pennzoil high mileage 5W-30.

 

Something that you could try is a change to 5W40 European spec Castrol oil. It is approved for BMW, Porsche, etc. You shouldn't need to, but it might be worth a try. Also, not all Castrol 5W40 is European spec. but it says so on the label if it is.

 

Oil pump does not create oil pressure. Tight clearances do.