Well, I've researched and played with it all that I can and I can't get this thing fixed, can anyone help me out?

My Accord has the F22B2 engine, and it idles around 450 RPMs when it's warm, I've tried adjusting the idle per the manual, cleaning the IACV, checked the air filter, new spark plugs, ignition timing adjustment, but NOTHING is even changing the idle. With the IACV disconnected, adjusting the idle screw doesn't seem to change the idle at all unless it's fully seated in which case the engine dies. What am I doing wrong here? I'm worried the low idle will kill my oil pressure and then my engine, so I want to get it fixed as soon as possible but I don't even know what to do next! There don't seem to be any issues with running otherwise, it drives fine and the idle doesn't surge or bounce much, so I've just been holding the gas pedal slightly when stopped to keep it around 700 RPMs.

 

Did this just happen out of the "blue"? Or was there something that led up to this. Any mod's to the car.

Stone cold start up, what is the idle rpm when cold?

 

I can't believe I forgot to mention this after spending a good week working on it (on and off)! This is after replacing a blown head gasket that was keeping it from idling at all, triple checked the valve timing but I was thinking about it at work and I think I might have mixed up some vacuum hoses, you wouldn't happen to have a picture or diagram of the proper routing would you? The diagram in the manual isn't super clear. Cold idle is around 1400 RPMs.

 

Update for today: I pulled off the throttle body and cleaned it with carb cleaner, took out the idle screw and FITV, cleaned the idle screw, tightened the FITV because it was loose. Now with the IACV disconnected when warm and the idle screw almost all the way out, it idles around 450. I reset the computer and I'm waiting for it to cool down to check the idle with IACV connected. It might be close enough now but I'd like to get it to spec and figure out why it only works with the idle screw how it is now.

 

Still no improvement, when I get some time I'll test the IACV with a multimeter and check for vacuum leaks, but I'd still like a definite idea of what it could be. At this point I'm frustrated enough with this that I'm considering just tightening up the throttle cable a little to keep the throttle open all the time and calling it good.

 

I know this thread is old, but I have something to add that might help the next slob like me who might read this.

I have ran into this symptom before and the cause in my case was the EGR valve being open due to the vacuum hoses at the EGR solenoid being reversed. There must be a check valve in the solenoid or something like it because the vacuum is not released from the valve and that gives the engine an "internal vacuum leak".......Take the hose off at the valve and plug it with a bolt or golf tee. If the idle goes to normal, then the problem is diagnosed.......Follow the vacuum hoses to make sure that they are installed correctly. This happened on a T-belt job done at another shop. I believe that the solenoid is at the LF fender. It has been a long time since I saw this condition, but I remember it well. You can't just remove the hose at the valve itself, because the EGR lift sensor will probably ground a check engine light.

I was directed here from a similar thread topic suggested by the forums.