1998 honda accord ex, automatic trans f23a4.

when coming to a stop, in 2nd gear before it downshifted it jolted hard like something snapped. Drive no longer engages anything other then 2nd gear, which is how i drove home. 1 3 d4 do nothing.

The only way to go into neutral/reverse is to turn the car off and let it cool down for 5-10minutes.

Is something internally broken? while driving in 2nd gear doing 50mph on my ride home it didnt feel like it slipped, just no way to change gears to 3rd or 4th. and when i put it in D4 at 50mph, nothing happened and then 10sec later it tried to engage and just slipped and screeched. stayed in 2nd the entire ride home to prevent further damage.

 

Fist thing I would do is check for stored codes. Many parts stores (outside of CA) will check codes for free if you don't have a reader. If you go to a parts store to get them checked, be sure to get the actual code and not "their description" of the code. Codes begin with a "P" and then four digits - example "P0740".

 

did that like 5 mins after it happened cause i was across the street from autozone. got 3 codes, 2 were p0700 1 confirmed 1 pending, and i dont remember the other code, need to write it down when i grab my scanner from the shop monday.

i took the solenoid off today and sprayed it with brake cleaner, the double solenoid right ontop of the trans. only 1 screen had a little bit of junk in it, not bad at all. i started the car, it shifted into reverse/neutral, and even started in 1st gear when u put in d4. it shfted into 2nd and 3rd HARSHLY while i took a 2min ride through the neighborhood. im starting to think its electrical/solenoid/sensor issue but need to check the other code first. i think the description was cant tell what gear its in but that doesnt mean much

 

scanned the codes again today, p0700 was the obvious trans problem, and the 1 i didnt remember was p0730 aka incorrect gear ratio. also reset the codes today to see if anything would change

car starts up just fine, goes into neutral/reverse/park just fine. 1st gear seemed to be on and off, 2nd gear works just fine again, and 3rd will not engage, and most likely 4th wont but i havnt gotten there yet.

perhaps pulling the battery instead of resetting ecus for a hard boot would show results?

iv also seen people take a wire to the positive terminal of battery, and just put it in 1 pin at a time for the solenoid to see if it clicks. guess i can check that + the ohms when i find a good guide.

also plan to flush roughly 1qt of atf, and refill with honda brand or maybe just some aftermarket crap.

 

Check the fluid is debris free.
Verify the fluid is full.
Verify the fluid is not being churned up and aerated.

Part 1 -How to Test: Shift Solenoid B and C (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

If there is material in the fluid, pull the shift solenoids and verify there is no debris blocking the valve ports. Same with the Linear valves and pressure switches.

120-130psi is the operating pressure.

 

welp, the top solenoid right infront had 1 screen clean and 1 screen with a lil gunk. brake cleanered it and tested with 12v, both solenoids clicked instantly and sounded smooth, not delayed or stuck.

i removed the battery and the tray, and there is another double solenoid there, but with 2 plugs. i pulled it, there wasnt a screen just 3 o-rings, sprayed it with brake cleaner also, and tested with the 12v method. both solenoids clicked the same fast and smooth.

the fluid itself is brown, the dipstick doesnt smell burnt like toast, but when sniffing the solenoids it had a burnt smell to it. i picked up 1qt of honda atf, and plan to drain 1qt and refill with 1qt. not trying to flush or drain the entire system, because its at 150k miles now and i have not touched the trans fluid in 50k + whatever previous owner didnt do.

i see a few other plugs on the trans i need to figure out what they are called and test

 

tested the 2 single solenoids beneath the tcc/lock double solenoid and both click good.

the only other 2 sensors i see are 1 on the very bottom that screws in, and 1 above it that isnt a solenoid but looks like it slides in with 1 hold holding it.

with the battery pulled completely, and reinstalled, the probem stil persist. no difference. it shifts into park/neutral/reverse with a delay, but does work, and then d4 or 1 starts you in 1st gear, and then a hard shift to 2nd and stays in 2nd after that. trying to go into 3 does not work.

also the D4 light is not throwing a code. all of the lights work correctly and light up, and d4 does not stay lit when in 1 or 2, and is the only light that is lit when in d4 like it should.

running out of options, last thing left would be drain 1quart of the fluid and refill with fresh, or drive in 2nd gear to the local transmission shop and see what they say

 

If you have a harsh 1-2 shift it may be the 2nd gear pressure switch is failing or the wire to it is damaged. Located under the distributor screwed into the transmission. If there is fluid leaking around it it may be at fault.
Problem with the two pressure switches is they will never cause the D4 or CEL to illuminate, along with a few more codes. Only when checking with an OBDII code reader will you procure the codes.

I would advise at minimum draining and refilling the sump 3quarts. If you feel the transmission may be toasted, just use whatever generic Gallon Jug of Dex III is available. If there is a bit of material in the sump this could be indicative of a problem. I would advise adding some Trans Tune, or other hydraulic cleaner, to aid in breaking down and removing slurry or unstick any valves/solenoids/passages that may becoming varnished and gummed up. If the sump is full of slurry the delayed shift or harsh shifting may be attributed from lack of fluid flow.

 

well iv had a leak for like 2years from the rear main seal, but thats oil and not trans fluid. when the motors hot and you pull the dipstick for trans, the level is towards the top part. i can take a picture tmrw before i drain the fluid.

you also mention a pressure switch beneath the distributor? will keep my eyes open for that. theres a leak from the valve cover on the back corner where the vtec solenoid is, so if that switch is beneath the distrib then maybe the plug is gunked with oil, but doubtful.

also, i have a few quarts of honda atf i plan to use, also was told to use lucas trans stuff, and have read about i think its redline, to help out.

and the problem with draining/filling, you dont know how much uv drained and filled without measuring, and good atf is ment to clean, which would destroy the transmission if it hasnt been serviced in who knows how long.

For the pressure switch though, wouldnt that throw a code since its electrical? and wouldnt it still shift into 3rd and 4th gear? Also plan to check the tcu for blown resistor/caps.

appreciate the help, few friends who work at the dealer instantly told me its blown, and to try engine import sites to get a trans for 300-400. also was told to sell the car as is lol

 

rained all yesterday and did nothing.

today, i drained the trans fluid level on the ground. almost 2 1/2quarts came out, and there wasnt really any material in the fluid. few small chunks but after 150k miles i would expect it. refilled 2 quarts of honda atf, and added some lucas trans stuff i had laying around. 1st to 2nd shift is a lot smoother since draining the trans ONCE, but 3rd gear does not engage still.

so my valve cover leak is worse then expected. probably should of fixed months ago lol. its seeping on the passenger side like crazy, and the entire back side of the motor is soaked in oil. i have not removed the distributor/intake and looked at any sensors on that back side. the starter is clean and the front of the motor is clean, its just the triangle by the distributor is gunked with oil *not the plugs* and below the vtec solenoid and down is soaked in oil.

Will change the valve cover tmrw if it doesnt rain and if the parts store has a felpro gasket in stock. also need to clean up the longblock of oil and see what possibly could be wrong or if the trans just finally gave out.