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between integra gen 3 are distributor bearing, shaft and gears the same could i swap one from an ls into a type r housing dizzy my bearing is gone need it replaced,
Ive got a Pr4-d02754 housing distributor here not sure if its a ls or gsr etc any identification from someone would be great so far ive replaced the bearing shaft ill post picture before and after stay tuned.
If you have an unknown distributor shaft it's very easy to tell If it will work with your distributor housing just physically try and see if it fits, and that the rotating parts are the right clearances, just turn the shaft and watch to see what is happening it's very easy to tell If the shaft will fit and work.
I've built my own distributors from spare parts you can mix and match I used a gsr housing and shaft, 98 civic si distributor sensors, gsr ignition coil, and type r ignition control module, and the distributor works awesome. If you need more info I suggest being clearer with your questions.
Hey i put back everything together pretty accurate and i went to put it on the head and when i started the car it quickly turned off after it started, Ive heard you could possible install it 180 degrees whack, how would i go about to fix this situation do i take off the end part of the dizzy that goes into the cam and flip it?
Yes just take the distributor off and turn the "key" 180° and put it back on. When you put a distributor on it should slip on with very little resistance, if you have to force it on that's a good sign that it's on backwards.
I've done this myself, i even ended up breaking both teeth on the key completely off, and had to fish them out with a magnet, there's a small Lil bowl that the teeth fall into if this ever occurs. Good luck
I've rebuilt several distributors for myself along with others. Even D series internal parts swap over. You just have to match the housing to the motor as in B series/D series and then VTEC/Non VTEC. I haven't been able to figure out which part exactly makes the ITR distributor allow less ignition change.
Any other distributor can from one extreme to the other on the slotted ears change timing maybe 50 degrees. The ITR ones only allow maybe 35 degrees. I figured Honda did this to prevent accidental detonation being that it is already a higher compression motor. 18 degree advance is almost maxed out on the ITR distributors labeled TDU86U or TDU87U IIRC.
Also, if anyone has information as to where I can buy OEM bearings and seals for distributors that would be awesome! I've had a few come through with bad internal seals and I can't find a part number for solely that.
ive started the car and got a check engine light not sure what the code is
If the car is running I guess thats a good sign, but first you should figure out what your code is, at least you will know where to look next.
Scanners are pretty cheap nowadays or you could always check by counting the check engine light flashes by shorting the blue plug behind your glove box.
Is the car revving over 3500 rpms? My car was throwing the code for the crank position sensor which is one of the sensors in the distributor, but still ran fine with the code.
How did u manage to solve the issue? Sometimes it's best to end a thread with posting up your solution, that way in the future if someone has the same issue and are searching they might stumble across this thread with your solution.
It's one way to make a positive contribution to the forum. Thanks
I didnt resolve it B16EJ, Im so frustrated with problems with this car theres just too many i dont know where to start. I just found out that my ecu on this car is a P30 ECU not the original p73 for the type r and when i move my ecu while its connected to the car when its on it makes the rpm jump like no tommorow and if it stays in one position its normal there is also a obd2 to obd1 harness connected to this ****.
So i thought it was just my distributor making my rpm do this turns out i was wrong, im still stuck on a cel 9 code ive taken it off multiple times to adjust the positioning of the sensor and still nothing, ive also checked the resistance on all sensors and they seem to be good at 390ohms the part im going to have to try next is exchanging from my old shaft distributor the cylinder position snail looking part the holes in this part are way different from the new dizzy shaft im thinking the sensor only works with that.
Last edited by Shayne Jonez R; Apr 23, 2015 at 02:07 PM.
Do u know anyone with a known good distributor and/or p73 ecu? If you were local I'd let u try mine out to see if it wild fix your problems.
Is the obd2 to obd1 harness good quality? I would try looking at your wires because If moving the ecu around makes the rpms jump I would have to think there is an exposed wire somewhere or a loose connection possibly?
Those are most likely the things I would do next. I hope u figure out I know how frustrating it is, hang in there.
Well it looks like you found your problem. Clean everything up and open the ecu and see if there is corrosion inside the ecu also.
And clean the wire harness while you are at it. That's actually not so bad as long as nothing is damaged I think if you clean everything you should be OK. That kind of corrosion would definitely start interfering with the signals.
Both of these images show electrolysis/corrosion inside the ECU connections. Also appears your ECU has a chip in it which is what the top image shows on bottom right. Replacing the ECU and verifying the harness is not the same should be the priority in this situation. If you can't locate a stock ECU try a chipped P28 with the same base map.
Distributor integra type r
