06 Civic EX Not Starting - Any Suggestions
My '06 Civic Ex is not starting. 
Basically, I put the key in. The lights and dash powered-on as normal. Turned the key to start and everything suddenly powered off. Tried 2-3 more times and by the 3rd or 4th attempt the lights and dash did not power on.
This happened the first time a month ago. Waited a week, then took the battery to my auto parts store to make sure it was not the culprit. They said it was fine. I left the battery out of the car for about 2 weeks. Decided to have the car towed. Tow truck driver reinstalled the battery and the car turned-on like nothing happened.
One week later it suddenly won't start again. I receive no electrical power at all... the horn won't blow... the doors have to be manually locked/unlocked. I haven't checked any fuses because I don't know which ones to check...
The lights are normal - not dim.
The battery has 80% charge (per my auto parts store).
Did not start with a jump.
Makes no unusual noises when attempting to start it.
Starter replaced last year.
*Weird thing I noticed - 1) The first time this happened stock cd player display did not light up, but started making noise like it was just spinning over and over again. 2) After the battery was reinstalled... the cd player display still did not light up and just made the same weird noise when I pressed any of it's control buttons.

Basically, I put the key in. The lights and dash powered-on as normal. Turned the key to start and everything suddenly powered off. Tried 2-3 more times and by the 3rd or 4th attempt the lights and dash did not power on.
This happened the first time a month ago. Waited a week, then took the battery to my auto parts store to make sure it was not the culprit. They said it was fine. I left the battery out of the car for about 2 weeks. Decided to have the car towed. Tow truck driver reinstalled the battery and the car turned-on like nothing happened.
One week later it suddenly won't start again. I receive no electrical power at all... the horn won't blow... the doors have to be manually locked/unlocked. I haven't checked any fuses because I don't know which ones to check...
The lights are normal - not dim.
The battery has 80% charge (per my auto parts store).
Did not start with a jump.
Makes no unusual noises when attempting to start it.
Starter replaced last year.
*Weird thing I noticed - 1) The first time this happened stock cd player display did not light up, but started making noise like it was just spinning over and over again. 2) After the battery was reinstalled... the cd player display still did not light up and just made the same weird noise when I pressed any of it's control buttons.
Your owners manual should have the main and engine compartment fuze panels detailed. In the engine fuze panel would be the main electrical relay. That would be the first point to check. You said the tow driver re-connected your battery, check that the poles are tight in the case and the connections are tight to the poles...
If the battery is good and the relay is intact, check the connection from your engine to the Engine Control Module ( ECM ), it will be located inside the passenger compartment.
After that, pull the starter relay and check it, and every fuze related to the malfunctioning components...
If the battery is good and the relay is intact, check the connection from your engine to the Engine Control Module ( ECM ), it will be located inside the passenger compartment.
After that, pull the starter relay and check it, and every fuze related to the malfunctioning components...
Your owners manual should have the main and engine compartment fuze panels detailed. In the engine fuze panel would be the main electrical relay. That would be the first point to check. You said the tow driver re-connected your battery, check that the poles are tight in the case and the connections are tight to the poles...
If the battery is good and the relay is intact, check the connection from your engine to the Engine Control Module ( ECM ), it will be located inside the passenger compartment.
After that, pull the starter relay and check it, and every fuze related to the malfunctioning components...
If the battery is good and the relay is intact, check the connection from your engine to the Engine Control Module ( ECM ), it will be located inside the passenger compartment.
After that, pull the starter relay and check it, and every fuze related to the malfunctioning components...
2. ECM/PCM is in engine compartment, not passenger compartment.
OP prior to this happening the first time was any repairs done to the car?
Or did it just start happening out of the blue?
Or did it just start happening out of the blue?
Well this is a shot in the dark but, check that there isn't corrosion building up in between the battery terminal and the battery post. If there is use a post cleaner or a brillo pad and some coca-cola and clean it off thoroughly. Then put a light coat of Vaseline on the post recconect the terminal and tighten it back up. Also make sure there isn't a build up of dirt or grim in between the positive and negative posts. If so clean it off thoroughly as well. I had a very similar problem with an older accord. Not sure if it what your experiencing but, it does sounds familiar. hopefully its that simple.
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Yes, the battery cables and connections should be checked.
Since the horn doesn't work, check if under-hood Fuse No. 12 (15A) is okay. With a voltmeter, see if there is ~12 volts at both sides of the No. 12 fuse. If there is not ~12 volts, the issue is at under-hood fuse box or the positive battery cable that runs to it.
If there is ~12 volts at the under-hood Fuse No. 12, then issue may lead to the under-dash fuse box. Issue can then possibly be with under-dash fuse/relay box connection, wiring, or multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) that is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Since the horn doesn't work, check if under-hood Fuse No. 12 (15A) is okay. With a voltmeter, see if there is ~12 volts at both sides of the No. 12 fuse. If there is not ~12 volts, the issue is at under-hood fuse box or the positive battery cable that runs to it.
If there is ~12 volts at the under-hood Fuse No. 12, then issue may lead to the under-dash fuse box. Issue can then possibly be with under-dash fuse/relay box connection, wiring, or multiplex integrated control unit (MICU) that is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
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