rear hub Bearing Question
Im in the process of replacing my wheel studs with ARP's. When Im doing this I want to replace my front and rear wheel bearing just for the heck of it since the car is a 98. So my question is can I just replace the Bearings in the rear instead of purchasing a new hub assembly? Has anybody done this? If so, what bearings to I get and what part number are they? Thanks in Advance.
Can you take a picture of the hub? Bearings should be separate and press out. The hub itself serves as the race. Also freeze the bearing prior to install, will go in easier.
Timken's are good, ordered some for a civic and they came with NTN, which is a OE bearing.
Timken's are good, ordered some for a civic and they came with NTN, which is a OE bearing.
I haven't taken them off yet. But i do know that the bearing is separate from the hub. Thats why I'm wondering if i can just replace the bearing instead of the whole assembly. Just trying to save some $$.
On the rear, the Hub IS the bearing...

The OEM Integra parts (R or not) are made by NTN. If you can get the correct NTN part numbers, you can definitely find them in NTN boxes (instead of Honda) for about half price or less. I had purchased a front bearing a few years back, but since that time NTN has changed their part numbers. Sorry I'm no help there...
You can do the work yourself with handtools, a dremel & and a chisel. The hand tool set you will need to DIY is about $100 from Harbor Freight. It is a lot of effort to do this yourself. You may need a 3-jaw puller get the rears off. For both the front & rear the hardest part will be getting the inner races off. It always leaves half behind. You can dremel deep deep into them and then crack them with the chisel. Then they slide off.
Here is my writeup for the front: https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...829-a-2984426/

The OEM Integra parts (R or not) are made by NTN. If you can get the correct NTN part numbers, you can definitely find them in NTN boxes (instead of Honda) for about half price or less. I had purchased a front bearing a few years back, but since that time NTN has changed their part numbers. Sorry I'm no help there...
You can do the work yourself with handtools, a dremel & and a chisel. The hand tool set you will need to DIY is about $100 from Harbor Freight. It is a lot of effort to do this yourself. You may need a 3-jaw puller get the rears off. For both the front & rear the hardest part will be getting the inner races off. It always leaves half behind. You can dremel deep deep into them and then crack them with the chisel. Then they slide off.
Here is my writeup for the front: https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...829-a-2984426/
BTW: Removing your old hubs (front & rear) to install the ARP studs WILL split the bearings in half. All of the force of the press-action will be SHOVED THROUGH one set of the ball bearings within. No mechanic I've ever talked to would recommend re-using a bearing that's been through this. Definitely replace the bearings.
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BTW: Removing your old hubs (front & rear) to install the ARP studs WILL split the bearings in half. All of the force of the press-action will be SHOVED THROUGH one set of the ball bearings within. No mechanic I've ever talked to would recommend re-using a bearing that's been through this. Definitely replace the bearings.
To the OP: Honda only sells the hub and bearing as an assembly, but there is a NTN part number on the bearing itself. You could buy the bearing separately, but by the time you pay a machine shop to go through the painful process of removing and pressing in the new bearing you're going to be looking at the same price tag as a brand new pair of hubs with the bearings already pressed in from Honda. You can handle the install of the assemblies by yourself.
If the rears just pop off by hand, then sure. The ones I've seen needed to be pressed off with a 3-jaw puller and they leave the inside inner race behind on the spindle. Or perhaps I am thinking of the front hubs.
The rears just slide off after the 32mm nut is removed. Afterwards the back of the studs are accessible and the bearings are left pressed into the hub.
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