i have a h22 euro r with a ob1 dizzy and my car died on me
i didnt have any sparks so i bought a new dizzy and still no spark and i have power going to the dizzy idk what to check for

 

What year of prelude with what engine harness are you using? If your running it in a 97-01 prelude and used the h22a4 engine harness did you bypass the the TDC sensor down by the crank? Check the wiring to your distributor and make sure they are all the snug and locked into place on the plug itself. Is your fuel pump priming and the check engine light does come on for 3 seconds then goes off when attempting to start your car? Also check all fuses and grounds to make sure that is good.

 

The car was running fine until yesterday and yes the check engine comes on and off and im running a accord 1995 harnest i checked all the fuse and im getting fuel into the rail

 

Are you using an external coil distributor? If that is the case I would check for voltage going to the coil itself and if nothing is there then replace it.

 

i did check the wire that the dizzy is getting power from and it had voltage and i had no spark so i tought it was the dizzy and even after putting in the new one
still no sparks my friends said that i prob put the dizzy wrong way in is that possible?

 

Is it an external coil type distributor or internal I cannot really help you with out that info. And you could put it in the wrong way but you would notice because it will not slide into place flush with the cam end. And can you tell if the distributor is turning or the cams are turning I just would hate to see you do all this work and the timing belt ends up being broken, just something to check.

 

all this internal/external dizzy talk gets me wondering. Not to thread jack. But a buddy of mine can't smog his jdm H22 because when the techs plug in the OBDII reader, it doesn't output any signal at all. He still is running the internal dizzy. Could it be that a change to external will fix his issue?

and to the OP, I don't think its possible to put the dizzy in the wrong way. It should only fit one way. But the rotor has to match up to the old one or the car won't start (its been awhile since I did a distributor but I think I marked the rotor so I'd put it in exactly as it came out). Also, yes check your timing belt. For tension and cracks/tears/etc. With OBDI, a broken belt might not even throw a code. It'd just die.

 

thanks for the replys btw its a external coil type distributor and im going to check right now if timing belt is broken but i didnt hear any noise when the car died

 

not just if the belt is broken, but using the crank pulley and 19mm socket, turn the engine over and make sure its all at tdc. a car won't even start if timing is way out. I realize we're getting pretty far from the dizzy at this point. but its worth a look.

it'll be easy to check tdc via the flywheel directly above the engine code casting mark

 

yes i know but i dont have any sparc even if the timing was off i should get sparks? unless the timing belt broke

 

Backinblue92 the distributor shouldnt have anything to do the tech plugging in the obdII connector sounds like the plug on your buddys car is the issue or he is not running the obd2 ecu to communicate properly

 

I haven't actually checked out his issue myself, this is just what he told me. I thought maybe there'd be an issue running diagnostic with the different sensors in internal vs external coil.

He said he's running an obdII ecu (p28 I think) but the plug itself is a simple thought. I guess sometimes u look deep for something and miss the obvious. I'll relay that to him

 

Well that is his issue the p28 only came in obd1 models and he should be running an obd2 ecu for his car which the P5M.

 

Hmm maybe it was the P5M. Though I'm really not certain. This is all secondhand talk. I'm running a p28 on my jdm h22 so I might have gotten em mixed up. Anyways, I'm gonna check out his car tomorrow and see what I find. I'll keep ya updated, thanks for the thoughts.

I'm expecting to find its something incredibly simple. Haha

 

Also, to the OP, any update on what u found?

 

was my fault i bought the external coil type dizzy and mine is internal

 

Not a huge deal at least you figured it out we all make mistakes.

 

just a quick question my boy told me instead of trying to buy a internal dizzy i should buy the msd external coil and use my external dizzy with it will it work
do i just need to connect the dizzy with the coil and add in the ground and power source?

 

http://www.msdperformance.com/instructiondownload.aspx

 

Well it turns out my buddy does have a P5M ecu. And I tested his wiring and there is voltage running to the 12 pin diagnostic plug. So I'm pretty much out of ideas. No clue why the obd2 reader shows absolutely no readings.

 

Check for codes.

 

I have obdI on my lude so I'm not that familiar with obdII.. But if obdII readers aren't showing any data whatsoever when plugged into the ecu, how would I check for a code? It's throwing a CEL but I can't just jump it with a paper clip to read it like I do with my car

 

I use my diagnostic tool or code reader that plugs into the 12 pin connector. But since yours does not work try jumping the blue two pin connector with a paper clip like you would using an obd1 ecu.
Also I know it sounds super dumb but make sure when your trying to pull codes with the paperclip method or using the obd2 12 pin port make sure your key is turned all the way to the ON position, not just to the first notch.

 

well its actually my buddys 5th gen that is having this issue. So the obdII ecu also has a blue 2 pin? I thought the obdII 12 pin connector replaced the two pin, so the only way to jump it and read a code would be plugging in the scanner/diagnostic tool/code reader (which is the issue with his car, it doesn't read anything when plugged into the port)

I read on like a Toyota forum that jumping terminals 4 and 9 works to retrieve CELs in the standard obdI style of long and short blinks. I'll tell him to try that

 

What I am saying is jump that 2 pin connector that you would normally use for pulling CEL's for an obd1 ecu and just do it that way. I know that the issue is the scan tool is not communicating with the ecu through the 12 pin connector.