Best way to remove crankshaft pulley?
Okay, whoever has a 98-02 Accord should know about how much of a pain it is to remove the timing belt casing. I need to remove the bottom casing to replace the engine mount. What is the best way to take off this crankshaft wheel without messing up timing?
Last edited by JDBeazy; Mar 22, 2015 at 11:44 AM.
I use the special tool from O"Reillys to get the bolt off. It's a rental. It fits the crankshaft slot and then you can add a cheater bar to the extended part which will hold the tool in place. The cheater bar can sit on the ground which keeps everything from turning. You need several long extensions which connect to the socket you need (I forgot the size) and another cheater bar. The extensions have to be long enough to clear the side of the car. To keep the extensions straight you need a jack stand to set the extensions on and keep them straight or stacked up wood. Mind you, these things can be on tight especially if it has never been removed-an ungodly amount of torque. I had to add a 6 foot pipe to the cheater bar connected to the extensions. MY 230 lb frame had to lean on this pipe before it gave way. When it does, it really pops. I also suggest everything be 1/2" drive. My nice impact wrench wasn't enough and that's what I did to get it off. Some folks do the same thing almost by removing the coil wire and pop the starter with the cheater bar and socket in place. If you get the direction wrong then you have a pickle. Would also recommend using impact wrench sockets. Standard sockets can break-seen it happen. Hope this helps.
I use the special tool from O"Reillys to get the bolt off. It's a rental. It fits the crankshaft slot and then you can add a cheater bar to the extended part which will hold the tool in place. The cheater bar can sit on the ground which keeps everything from turning. You need several long extensions which connect to the socket you need (I forgot the size) and another cheater bar. The extensions have to be long enough to clear the side of the car. To keep the extensions straight you need a jack stand to set the extensions on and keep them straight or stacked up wood. Mind you, these things can be on tight especially if it has never been removed-an ungodly amount of torque. I had to add a 6 foot pipe to the cheater bar connected to the extensions. MY 230 lb frame had to lean on this pipe before it gave way. When it does, it really pops. I also suggest everything be 1/2" drive. My nice impact wrench wasn't enough and that's what I did to get it off. Some folks do the same thing almost by removing the coil wire and pop the starter with the cheater bar and socket in place. If you get the direction wrong then you have a pickle. Would also recommend using impact wrench sockets. Standard sockets can break-seen it happen. Hope this helps.
I have done this before but I heard there is a possibility of messing up timing with this method. Another serious question would be:
How would you go about putting the wheel back in place?
There is the possibility of altering the timing since you have to remove the belt in order to remove the pulley. Timing is critical. Out of whack and bye bye internal components. Check out Ericthecarguy for videos he has. Most are free and some are about 17 bucks to download. Well worth the money. I did a complete timing belt and balancer belt on my 95 Accord 4 cylinder with his video-the 17 dollar version (I was doing a head gasket job). Go to: Welcome to EricTheCarGuy.com! - Eric The Car Guy- Stay Dirty!
I think what your concern is occurs when the engine turns clockwise. Turning the engine clockwise can mess up the belt tension and risk jumping a tooth. as long as you use the special tool to immobilize the crank it shouldn't be an issue.
the hardest part is setting it all up to re-install the bolt which requires turning the bolt clockwise. Positioning the tool properly takes care of that.
Doesn't hurt to do a timing belt tension adjustment before starting to take any slack from stretching out.
the hardest part is setting it all up to re-install the bolt which requires turning the bolt clockwise. Positioning the tool properly takes care of that.
Doesn't hurt to do a timing belt tension adjustment before starting to take any slack from stretching out.
I think what your concern is occurs when the engine turns clockwise. Turning the engine clockwise can mess up the belt tension and risk jumping a tooth. as long as you use the special tool to immobilize the crank it shouldn't be an issue.
the hardest part is setting it all up to re-install the bolt which requires turning the bolt clockwise. Positioning the tool properly takes care of that.
Doesn't hurt to do a timing belt tension adjustment before starting to take any slack from stretching out.
the hardest part is setting it all up to re-install the bolt which requires turning the bolt clockwise. Positioning the tool properly takes care of that.
Doesn't hurt to do a timing belt tension adjustment before starting to take any slack from stretching out.
double checking timing belt tension: remove the upper timing belt cover so you can see the cam pulley. loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt 2/3 - 1 turn. Turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing belt on camshaft pulley moves 3 teeth. retighten adjustment bolt (33 ft pounds). This isn't absolutely necessary but it only takes a few minutes and takes up any stretch that might have crept in with age.
Now you can remove the crank pulley and take care of the mount. when you get to putting the pulley on, hand tighten the crank pulley bolt, install the adapter and breaker bar with the bar pointing towards 5 oclock and touching the ground. if it won't align you can use the adapter and bar to turn it counterclockwise until it does. Now torque the crank bolt to 181 ft pounds.
remember to clean the bolt and washer, then lightly lubricate the threads and between head and washer.
Now you can remove the crank pulley and take care of the mount. when you get to putting the pulley on, hand tighten the crank pulley bolt, install the adapter and breaker bar with the bar pointing towards 5 oclock and touching the ground. if it won't align you can use the adapter and bar to turn it counterclockwise until it does. Now torque the crank bolt to 181 ft pounds.
remember to clean the bolt and washer, then lightly lubricate the threads and between head and washer.
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