Bad rack and pinion?
Damnit I wrecked my car, my 98 accord 2.3l. I replaced the pass. CV axle and tie rod end. The last problem I ran into is while the pass. Side tire is straight, so is my steering wheel but the driver side tire is turned somewhat to the left. Also while I pulled it back into the spot I'm working on it the driver side tire is slightly cocked inwards. One more thing, when I backed out of the spot after replacing CV and tie rod as soon as the front hit the little dip to the pavement the steering jerked. Any ideas?
Not sure what you mean by cocked inwards. Is the top or the bottom of the wheel sticking out more than the bottom or top of the wheel(camber)?
If the camber is greatly changed it will also cause a change in toe angle.
This is because the wheel will be steered when the top of the wheel moves in/out independent of everything else.
Wild guess of the night.
If the steering, other than being heavy/dragging a bit, is fine but the wheel is toed out with the same thread engagement at the outer tie rod, the inner tie rod(under the boot) is probably bent. There is a ball/socket joint and it is easy for the inner joint to bend and not be readily noticeable due to the boot.

*Cone should always be pointing to the center of the cup, ^this is bent.*
As for the jerking/self steering.
Your camber/castor/toe is all goofed up on your driver side. It will pull and yank on the steering wheel unless there is a natural balance on the opposite side. Since the D side is knackered it's going to do all sorts of unpredictable things, especially through its suspension travel.
Don't drive the car until you have the Camber/Castor/Toe fixed.
If the camber is greatly changed it will also cause a change in toe angle.
This is because the wheel will be steered when the top of the wheel moves in/out independent of everything else.
Wild guess of the night.
If the steering, other than being heavy/dragging a bit, is fine but the wheel is toed out with the same thread engagement at the outer tie rod, the inner tie rod(under the boot) is probably bent. There is a ball/socket joint and it is easy for the inner joint to bend and not be readily noticeable due to the boot.

*Cone should always be pointing to the center of the cup, ^this is bent.*
As for the jerking/self steering.
Your camber/castor/toe is all goofed up on your driver side. It will pull and yank on the steering wheel unless there is a natural balance on the opposite side. Since the D side is knackered it's going to do all sorts of unpredictable things, especially through its suspension travel.
Don't drive the car until you have the Camber/Castor/Toe fixed.
Not sure what you mean by cocked inwards. Is the top or the bottom of the wheel sticking out more than the bottom or top of the wheel(camber)?
If the camber is greatly changed it will also cause a change in toe angle.
This is because the wheel will be steered when the top of the wheel moves in/out independent of everything else.
Wild guess of the night.
If the steering, other than being heavy/dragging a bit, is fine but the wheel is toed out with the same thread engagement at the outer tie rod, the inner tie rod(under the boot) is probably bent. There is a ball/socket joint and it is easy for the inner joint to bend and not be readily noticeable due to the boot.

*Cone should always be pointing to the center of the cup, ^this is bent.*
As for the jerking/self steering.
Your camber/castor/toe is all goofed up on your driver side. It will pull and yank on the steering wheel unless there is a natural balance on the opposite side. Since the D side is knackered it's going to do all sorts of unpredictable things, especially through its suspension travel.
Don't drive the car until you have the Camber/Castor/Toe fixed.
If the camber is greatly changed it will also cause a change in toe angle.
This is because the wheel will be steered when the top of the wheel moves in/out independent of everything else.
Wild guess of the night.
If the steering, other than being heavy/dragging a bit, is fine but the wheel is toed out with the same thread engagement at the outer tie rod, the inner tie rod(under the boot) is probably bent. There is a ball/socket joint and it is easy for the inner joint to bend and not be readily noticeable due to the boot.

*Cone should always be pointing to the center of the cup, ^this is bent.*
As for the jerking/self steering.
Your camber/castor/toe is all goofed up on your driver side. It will pull and yank on the steering wheel unless there is a natural balance on the opposite side. Since the D side is knackered it's going to do all sorts of unpredictable things, especially through its suspension travel.
Don't drive the car until you have the Camber/Castor/Toe fixed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
99civ
Suspension & Brakes
31
Nov 6, 2012 09:41 PM
nxstrikerxn
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
4
Feb 26, 2005 06:29 PM




