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97' civic lx exhaust manifold crack/ CEL on/ idle issues.
So I've been trying to smog this beast for about a month now. It had a CEL for missfires which I fixed recently with a tune up. Right after that cleared I got code P0135-025 and had a mechanic look at the car. Car idles high on start (1400rpm) then jumps when warm (900-2000rpm). I have a crack in the exhaust manifold/ cat. Mechanic said "R&R 02 sensor B1S1/ Clean heater circuit idle air count sensor & passages both water & air". Just need a little clarification on what I should do exactly. Thanks!
Replace the manifold. It's dumping air over the sensor and telling the ecu the mix is lean, for which it tries to compensate and you end up dumping fuel. This is an almost universal failure for these.
Replace the manifold. It's dumping air over the sensor and telling the ecu the mix is lean, for which it tries to compensate and you end up dumping fuel. This is an almost universal failure for these.
Take this^ advice seriously.
Also, P0135 indicates a problem in the heater circuit of primary O2 sensor. This is a separate issue from the cracked manifold. Start by checking whether fuse 15 is blown.
Also, P0135 indicates a problem in the heater circuit of primary O2 sensor. This is a separate issue from the cracked manifold. Start by checking whether fuse 15 is blown.
I have no idea what -025 means here.
Fuse 15 is good. I'm going to pick-a-part monday to get the manifold. I'll update after that. Thanks!
Perhaps, or he can fix it correctly for about that too:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Catalytic-Converter-fits1996-2000-Honda-Civic-1-6L-/141565281515?fits=Year%3A2000%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3ACivic%7CSubmodel%3AEX
Add two new O2 sensors and done.
Measure resistance across the two heater terminals of the primary O2 sensor. It should read 10-40 Ohms. If not, replace it.
If resistance is good, check whether the connector gets battery voltage from fuse 15.
For the idle issue, clean the IACV.
Agreed. I recommended just replacing them though as I can probably count on one hand the number of times those sensors have come out of a cracked mani with the threads intact. If they are working and manage to come out undamaged, by all means return the replacement ones. Sucks to be unprepared though.
Agreed. I recommended just replacing them though as I can probably count on one hand the number of times those sensors have come out of a cracked mani with the threads intact. If they are working and manage to come out undamaged, by all means return the replacement ones. Sucks to be unprepared though.
A typical lx/hx/dx manifold has a life span of 180k miles. My amazon replacement unit has aged much more gracefully and still looks new even after 100k miles where as the stock unit would show stress and discoloration if I remember correctly
I got the Dorman exhaust manifold recently. I don't have any instructions and their live support is down until tomorrow. Can't seem to find an E-copy anywhere for this product. It comes with a few parts, the manifold, the cat, a gasket for the manifold/engine and a weird circular gasket/ ring that doesn't fit on any parts. Also is there supposed to be a gasket between the cat and exhaust? If anyone here has done this job before, or knows of a video for this exact part, let me know please.
Replaced O2. CEL is off thank god... but the idle issue still persists. It does this when the engine is warm only. When I fire it up it idles at about 1400 and then slowly goes up to 1.9k (warm at this point), then it drops to about 900 then slowly climbs back up to about 2k and continues this. Some say to change the PCV valve. I already cleaned the IACV. Any ideas?
Just bleed the system. Still idles high, then jumps when warm. No CEL still. Any other ideas? Should I do a full flush? If I do flush it, is it okay to run water through it?