I was trying to remove my crankshaft pulley in order to change the timing belt, but the pulley broke. I had a socket wrench extension through one of the holes to immobilize the pulley while I tried to turn the nut, but the metal around the hole broke and the pulley is pretty much useless and broken. I still haven't been able to remove it and I can't find a replacement. Can I use one from another car? is there an aftermarket one that would work? I only need one belt for alternator and another for the AC. It's a 1987 sedan manual 5 speed 1.5L with no power steering. It's the carbureted one. if i can find a CRX or an Integra at a junk yard might one of those work? also if they do work, How do i get them off without breaking them? I'd really like to get one of the aftermarket ones just for the sake of less headache and less searching junkyards and such. please bestow upon me this wisdom. I want to keep this little old honda driving.

 

1) It helps if you add your "Location:" to your profile. Someone local to you might know of a source.

2) Try the classifieds over at redpepperracing.com. That's about the only place you're likely to find one.

 

I'm in Richmond, VA. I think I found a salvage one in MD. If i can verify that it's the right one, i'm going to have them mail it to me.

 

Nationwide salvage listings: Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

Here's some pictures. I'mma start putting in pictures whenever i post, because I like to look at y'all's pictures, so it's only fair.

 

I also now have the issue of still not being able to get the old one off. Most of those holes u use to immobilize the thing while you turn the bolt are gone. Even if i can find a new one, I'm worried about getting the old one out. I was wondering if it would be a bad idea, or if it would even be possible to put the car in gear and stop the crank from moving that way. what do you guys think? will that damage my transmission before the bolt budges? or will the bolt break free before my transmission is damaged? this bolt is really making me mad. i'm so close to having a sweet, old driveable civic.

 

Use a flywheel tool or a pry bar to stop the flywheel from turning.

 

Just had a thought. If you can't find the pulley, try contacting one of the importers and getting a JDM part. You never know until you ask...

 

$25 + shipping:

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

Nice try, did you put the trany in gear?

Time for the blue wrench, a little heat with a propane torch should do the trick.

The usual tool is an impact driver, electrical works, pneumatic is better, I used to take a trip to the local service station and give one of the guy some beer money to loosen the nut.

Not too sure if the local parts place loan these?

Anybody in Richmond to give a hand?

 

If you take the flywheel cover off, should be 4 bolts, then you can put some sort of crowbar or flat bar to hold the flywheel in place. It might take awhile to find a spot where it will actually not spin. From there, the best method I found was using a jack, and several extensions, and a breaker bar. If you set the extensions on the jack you can use it as leverage when you are using a breaker bar to loosen the nut. I couldn't get mine off with an air gun, so I had to do it with the bar. You should have enough extensions so that the breaker bar is outside of the wheel well, allowing for maximum leverage. Also I didn't just wail on it, or put all my weight on it at once. You are more likely to break something if you do it like that. Instead put a lot of weight and pressure for a second then let off but not completely, otherwise whatever you have wedged into the flywheel will fall out. It took me several tries before I actually got it, but finally got it off my automatic 95 Honda Civic. The threads on the end of the bolt were gone, and the pulley was completely out of round on the backside. Just picked up a pulley, woodruff key, and bolt from a wrecking yard for $25. Had to pull it myself, but already had a lot of practice on my own car so it went quick. Good luck with your repairs.

 

Thanks everyone for your responses and advice! I was able to get this bolt out back in winter 2015. I really should have updated this sooner. I put the thing in gear, blocked the wheels, and immobilized the pulley with the remaining holes by jamming screw driver in there. I used a long breaker bar with a peice of pipe to make it even longer. a little grunting and pop! then i was able to find a usable pulley on ebay for like $40. it's kind of funny the seller had it mislabeled as an '89, but at this point i've spent enough time at the junkyard to know it was actually a 3rd gen from the pictures. Anyway, got that and then found out it was the right gen, but it was from an SI so the timing marks were different. i made my own timing mark with some simple math, a file and some red nail polish. I was running a weber carb and once i figured out how to hook up the distributor's vacuum advance properly, the car ran great and got about 42 mpg, and was actually fun to drive despite only having 70 hp. i blew a head gasket when my thermostat stuck closed and i was too stubborn to call a tow truck and tried to "limp" it home while it was overheating. I decided to go through with an engine swap. I'm hand wiring an obd1 conversion and putting in a 5th gen d-series. I'm excited to see how it turns out. However, I did really enjoy that old d15a2 while I had it in there. Once you desmog it, they can be fun and relatively simple . the only thing that was anoyying to me was having cvcc tech in the head that was just kind of there not being utilized, probably reducing flow. Also i couldn't figure out any kind of good idle-up solenoid type setup where the rpm didn't drop down when you turn on headlights or other accessories. If anyone needs d15a2 parts let me know. also i still have the weber progressive carb.

 

Hey Corey, did you get anywhere with swapping in the 5th gen d-series motor? I'd be interested in seeing/reading how that went. Thanks

 

at this point i'm just cleaning up the wiring and trying to figure out how i'm going to fabricate a shift linkage. I started the new engine for the first time just the other day.