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Hi all, i posted a thread that i bought a civic from FB with a blown engine, turns out that the d15b7 wasnt original and i sourced a complete D16z6 automatic swap, so i Finally got around to doing everything that needed to be done to get it running and i discovered i have HX Wheels with brand new tires, and upon pulling the engine, it has new shafts and mounts besides the top mount im missing... I plan on painting the car its original color as my first body work/paint project with the help of an experienced individual that restores cars for a living
D16Z6 From Donor:
And i found out what happened to this freshly pulled d15b7... They pulled it from a JY, the headbolts were loose, a ton of bolts were loose, my assumption is that, and it seems Very apparent... is that, whoever put this engine in, didnt torque anything to spec, the headgasket began to let air/water/oil into the cylinders... it overheated, he pushed it to the point the timing cover melted to the head
Timing is Dead on, engine is running smoothly, but my A/T is not shifting properly, when it reaches time to change gears i need to let off the gas, but this may be due to TOO much ATF in the transmission, as it shifts into Reverse and Drive perfectly fine, its now onto figuring out why the transmission isnt functioning properly, i dont have too much time on the weekends to work on it, so 2 days during the week are when i work on my projects most
i am going to look into beefing up the A/T, my GF loves the car, and i would prefer her drive a Honda over a gas guzzling 5.9 Durango, the Engine seems to be just fine, i just have some weird noises while in motion, a random screech when u take off, but until i source all oem suspension, i will blame the Ebay lowering kit
i have reason to believe that the engine i bought was damaged before i put it in, i had a valve job and the head milled, new Felpro multi layer steel gasket, new headbolts torqued to 55lbs after an initial 22lb step, cranked the engine up, and the radiator didnt shoot water out at all, when it got up to temp, if i put it in Drive or drove it hard, the temp would shoot up, took the thermostat out, same effect, and bubbles coming out the water at a consistent rate, with a random shot of water out of the radiator ever so often....
Lesson learned, mill the head and mill the block after an overheat, LOL
i know it has to be the block surface and not my work, as ive built a bullet proof 4 cylinder engine for my dakota that i consistently keep up between 3-5k, redlines @ 5.5-6k, i even bounce it off the rev limiter and give it hell, and it doesnt budge, everyones impressed, the beating i give it and it keeps on going, and in all honesty, i only ran the civic hard once, and that was the night it overheated while i was chasing down a pony... happened to look at the temp gauge to find it beyond red, machine shop checked the head and called me to ask about the valve job and milling, so i dont imagine its their work, theyre the best in the county
ive heard warping a block isnt so simple, but given the symptoms of very little bubbling, and the fact that the sleeves inside the blocks are steel and the block is aluminum, could be that the block itself warped around the cylinder allowing compression to escape through the cooling system
now im going to send the head and the block to the machine shop, have them inspect the head and the block, mill whichever needs it (theyll let me know), possibly buy new bearings, deffinately doing new rings, i will provide MANY pics of this process
Last edited by bigboi407; Jun 5, 2015 at 06:00 AM.
sucks that you're having so much trouble with the swap. hopefully you get it all sorted. but yeah, i usually won't buy a non-running car, b/c it can end up costing a nickle-and-dime fortune to get everything figured out, between the engine, tranny, steering, suspension, chassis, exhaust, HVAC, instrumentation, etc... you could literally be building a car from scratch by the time everything is sorted out.
sucks that you're having so much trouble with the swap. hopefully you get it all sorted. but yeah, i usually won't buy a non-running car, b/c it can end up costing a nickle-and-dime fortune to get everything figured out, between the engine, tranny, steering, suspension, chassis, exhaust, HVAC, instrumentation, etc... you could literally be building a car from scratch by the time everything is sorted out.
pretty much only having trouble with the headgasket sealing, and i think it initially sealed due to the cheap gaskets not being multilayer steel, its not that big a deal to rip the engine all apart, just the time to do it, way i see it is, ill have brand new engine when im done with it, the body like all 94s needs a Lil work, but for the most part its straight all the way around (which is why i bought it)
and you also have to factor in that i ran the hell out of it without noticing the temp until it was beyond hot, for how long?? Who knows... i was chasing down a Pony.... (stupid on my part to not check my gauges frequently) lesson learned... mill the head and mill the block
Well after doing a valve job and wasting another set of head bolts and a head gasket, i pulled the block apart, sent it to the machine shop, had the block surfaced and the cylinders honed, got it all back on my table, im going to put my block on the stand
now all thats left is to buy an engine rebuild kit (new pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets) and put it back together and turn the key
Last edited by bigboi407; Aug 23, 2015 at 09:10 AM.
went to put my engine together and discovered i lost a TON of bolts in moving from one place to another somehow, so i need to hit a JY before i can get it complete, but this is what i have so far