anyone here had the same problem?
i was thinking about changing the cap rotor and coil...
will the autozone brand work? any inputs?

 

I bought new rotor and cap from Oreilly's. Been running smooth. Import Direct brand I believe.

Edit:

If you haven't done so already, buy new spark plugs and wires. Buy NGK spark plugs (purchased at Auto Zone, but can probably be found other places, such as Advanced), they are direct fit/OEM replacements. If you can find NGK spark plug wires, buy those. I ran NGK everything on my Honda Civic and it purred like a kitten.) I couldn't find NGK wires for my V locally, so I am running Import Direct cables and they are excellent so far (roughly ~3000 miles since installation). Do not buy BOSCH anything.

 

Honda/Acura Main FAQ Page

 

B series engines are always prone to slight misfire at idle when spark plugs are past their best ,this is the first thing to replace. Distributer cap and rotor arm are next, depending on mileage . I think high tension leads and coils are pretty reliable on the V for big milages. The distributer itself however is prone to wear, but try the first two to begin with as it's pretty cheap and easy ,at least you will have that much ruled out even if it has to be further investigated.

 

Have you had your valve clearances inspected/adjusted? There were certain years of CR-V that had issues with the valve seat sinking into the head causing the symptoms you have.

 

I had your problems on my own 98 CR-V.

Your valves need attention and if you have a sound like "pop" "pop" from the exhaust you might have a burned valve...... You need to change the plugs, distributor cap and rotor. The cables to, and clean your IACV (idle air control valve) using some brake cleaner.

So far so good, if your vehicle dont run proberbly after that, check if you have the popping sound from the exhaust end. You can also try with a piece of paper, hold it up to the exhaust end, if it is sucked on to the end of the pipe you have a burned valve. Compression test is needed to be sure but the paper trick is a good indicator.

I been there and ended up purchasing another cylinderhead, grinding the surface and valves, new valve gaskets. . .everything. Taking of the cylinderhead, pulling up the pistons.... changing the piston and oilrings at the same time.

Now it runs like a brand new using no oil or anything.

But for now you only need to do the first parts and see if it Works.