Looking it up, found out it's supposedly Compact Recreational Vehicle or, according to Honda's Japanese website and their own press releases for its introduction in 1997, it stands for Comfortable Runabout Vehicle.

I'll tell you what I called it; Constantly Repaired Vehicle.

Here's why: My 01 manual 5spd, purchased in Sep 2013 with 105K on it. In great shape, or so it seemed. Well, one thing after the next **** the bed, one at a time, in succession; battery, radiator (twice!), front brakes, cat rotted, then muffler, then head pipe(replaced with Yonaka catback), then cel's for misfires (adjusted valves to excellent result), then reverse went, replaced trans, oil pan(rotted), timing belt/pump/idler, both front door locks (GGGGRRRRROOOONNNNNKKKK! gone), fixed windshield gutter leak(somewhat) - I mean, wtf?

Well, it's been months since anything has popped up (knock on wood, metal, plastic, glass) so I've re-named it:
Currently Reliable Vehicle.


If I might add: Thanks a bunch to all here for the vast base of info and hook-up to parts as well as the total sarcasm and hilarity too.

 

Man....it sucks you've had all those problems after purchase.....but sounds like you've gotten all the crazy **** outta the way....
It's crazy I've got 265k on mine now but I bought it from virginia...so don't have any rust issues...

 

Yeah I figured the guy that sold it realized it was time for a bunch of stuff and decided to sell. At 105K I'd say just about broken in.

When I say rotted cat, it was not rotted through, just when trying to break the o2 sensor from the bung it just ripped right off, flimsy and weak as it was.
But yeah, Boston car, underside looks like an ad for Rusty Jones.(vintage reference)

Turning out to be a decent commuter (24.5MPG!!), tow vehicle - although uphill it is way down on power with just 1 bike/gear on the trailer - and grocery getter.
I like it, just wish it had more *****, properly inflated of course.

 

Lol....that's funny....

Have you done an Intake? And you can always upgrade injectors and throttle body for a little more.....or even vtec it since it's a 5 spd!! Then you definitely wouldn't complain on shortages of power...

 

Stock intake, stock filter
I have k&n's on my green bike(w/jet kit, runs strong), and though I like it, not a huge fan of them on my car(s) with all the mileage/dirt it's subject to. In other words, would rather replace a dry paper element instead of have to clean and re-oil. Depends on how much increase in power it would yield.

Not totally crazy about replacing the top end at the moment, but I could be swayed - how much more hp/tq we talking over stock?
It's rated what, 140? No idea on tq.
Any recommendations on a decent intake setup?

 

>>supposedly Compact Recreational Vehicle or<<

Somebody else once posted "Combat Ready Vehicle". I often call mine the UAV - Urban Assault Vehicle.

 

Well....horsepower 180ish torque 150ish...put in gsr cams cam gears ecu with a tune and bigger injectors and tb......even more....

 

I'm building mine now with crower I beams and cp 10:1 pistons for vtec and a Lil boost.....Gonna be some fun in awd!!

 

Cliffs: Boston problems

 

Radiator going out twice? Defect is the first that comes to mind.
Front brakes? The usual maintenance
Battery? Doesn't last long if you don't know when it was last replace or if your alternator took a **** before.
Exhaust system rust? Well you live up north, I can imagine how the rest of the underbody looks if it hasn't been maintain to prevent rust
Windshield gutter issue? I've heard about that issue before, the solution was to go back and reseal the windshield.

 

Currently Runs Very [slow up mountains]

 

Sounds like you have some fun in store. Building it yourself?

Anyone care to venture an approx guess how much $$ it would take for me to go the vtec top end/injectors/rail/ecu route? Just get me in the neighborhood. It's def a deciding factor, as I have several hobbies that use up available $, not the least of which is bike fever(currently cabin fever with 3ft+ of snow outside).

 

HAH! Nice one.
Last June went down to W VA towing a bike to do some riding in the area (back of the dragon for one, damn fine road, prob one of the best I've ever ridden) and had to downshift a ton of times to keep momentum uphill. I'd love to not have to do that.

 

Yeah....lots of fun!!
Prolly be in the neighborhood of 5-600 for a vtec conv. You can source most of the parts on ebay pretty cheaply. Most cost will be from the head and ecu. You can source some h22 injectors or dsm pretty cheap and just do a little at a time...all b series injectors are the same size so you could get away with using those since they came on all motors including vtec....

 

That cheap? Well hell, I may have a spring/summer project ahead of me.

 

I read with a VTEC build, you will lose some low-end power, is that correct? I am looking for more power (just like everyone else with a first gen), and will be "soft" roading in the summer. Would going VTEC help or no?

 

Loss of torque is nominal....If barely noticeable.....but you gain 35 or more h.p....
Is yours a 5 spd?

 

Negative. Automatic

 

Its too bad you are having such bad luck. My passenger door stopped power locking but other then that it is good at 300,000km. hope it goes better for you

 

Better luck now, though I should keep my trap shut.

Next up: rear diff fluid change, thing shudders like a **** on tight turns.
Prob replace those pesky and flimsy end links too, it has a squeak that comes and goes that the radio doesn't quite drown out(or ball joints, or whatever it turns out to be). Maybe a wattage/speaker upgrade?!

I used to love fixing car **** with radio volume.

 

my friends call it the Chicks Recreation Vehicle

 

Ouch.

You saying I should paint it purple or pink?

Eh, I don't give a rats what anyone says, especially my friends.

Anyway, changed the diff fluid - shudder didn't go away for a few miles, but worked like a charm once it got circulated.
Now smooth as butter - may be mind over matter, but also seems to roll quieter going straight.

Noticed drivers side rear sway bar link broken, so that's next.
Here's one for all you experienced Honda dudes/dudettes:
Should I get a Moog component or does it matter much on a daily driver/all-around workhorse like mine?

I'm seeing around $22/side for whatev's and $33 for Moog.

 

Coolest Ride Vehicle