To summarize my findings:

Ron has supplied the needed wiring diagrams at the bottom of the page

My door lock control unit was not receiving constant 12v and the unit itself suffered corrosion and dust damage.

my constant 12v supply is being interrupted by a short somewhere in the door harness.

On page 2 I will post pictures of my electrical repair to the oem door lock module

On page 3 if needed I will show how I bypassed the control unit with individual switches and a remote toggle switch

 

Do the power locks work from the switch on the inside of the driver's door?

 

Negative. No function at all from the door lock actuators or any noise from the control module in the door

In the below post I show how I wired the factory radio to function primarily as a clock but also to function with the accessories to get keyless eventually working again

The led on the factory radio does not function

And yes the green plug is plugged into the head unit it's just not pictured

Any tip to check voltage at the regulator plug so I can verify the lock module is functional?

 

Start by pulling aside the rubber boot covering the left and right door jamb connectors to check for broken or damaged wires.

 

I've pulled it apart and the wiring has been extended with butt style connectors. The wire ends all appear to match, and everything except power locks work.

I can't bring myself to cut an re trace when everything else works.

 

You need to pull off the door panel to do some tests from the connectors for the control unit, actuator, and switch.

Start here:

 

Yes but if both actuators are bad then there is nothing I can test as the trouble shooting process for the lock module is jumping wires from the switch wiring into the module wiring to get the actuator to function.

I transferred a known working switch onto my car with no change in results

Do you know of a way to test the wiring at the actuator? If I can test a plug there for power I can confirm that both actuators are bad

Car has 300k very well maintained miles. It is hard to justify spending the $50 for an actuator when it could be much more complicated than that

 

If you're not interested in fixing or pinpointing the problem, then say so and we can both save some time. Otherwise, the input tests are the place to start. Get a multimeter.

Afterwards you can run power and ground directly from the battery to test the actuator. You can also test the switch itself.

 

Here is a different test to try. (If the door lock actuators are bad, this won't do anything; but, if it works, it means the issue is before the power door lock control unit.)

To see if the doors will lock: At the 12-P connector for the power door control unit, attach a spare piece of wire to cavity 1 (where the GRN/WHT wire is). With the connector plugged back in, touch the other end of the spare wire to body ground. Does the doors lock? (Only do this briefly, to not burn out motors if they are good.)

To see if the doors will unlock: At the 12-P connector for the power door control unit, attach a spare wire to cavity 8 (where the GRN/ORN wire is). With the connector plugged back in, touch the other end of the spare wire to body ground. Does the doors unlock?

 

Looks like wiring was messed up from a new regulator and window motor. These are re spliced back into the harness going to the actuator

I have power to the actuator at 5 volts the rest are ground.

I'm going to have to pull apart the harness on the door for sure now

 

You have massive voltage drop. There should be nothing less than battery at any given point.

 

Yes, and the door lock module is only getting 9v. I have a feeling they ghetto rigged the window motor. I'm tearing through the electrical tape on the harness and it's getting uglier

 

At the Wht/Grn wire in the unplugged connector?

 

Correct.

It looks like they jumped the switch so that they could wire the car with an aftermarket alarm and use that keyless Brain.

Need to figure out how the green/orange green/silver connectors go from the switch to the module, then why they also go back to the door

 

Just to clarify. You measured only 9V at the Wht/Grn wire pin in the unplugged lock module connector. What did you use for ground in the test? What was the voltage reading across the two battery posts when you did the test?

 

Detailed circuit diagrams and circuit explanations. Almost anything you want to know about the power locks circuit can be found in these diagrams.

 

Ron you are awesome. So far I've found two bad grounds and gotten the power readings at the module back to 12.7v

 

Great. Problem solved?

 

Blue and yellow wire was tapped at the location of the old aftermarket alarm, just left disconnected leaving an open circuit.

White and green wire was also tapped with a pinch end connector under the dash causing the low voltage

 

Tracking under the dash and the blue yellow wire still does not have power. Going to track it further tonight but I believe I will find the radio control plug tapped as I get towards the rado.

 

That is one crazy *** crimp job....I would've replaced that harness.

 

It functions so it's not a big issue at the moment. I just hate but style connectors with a passion as well.

There are no local junk yards with civics in them and when I searched for the pinout that Ron posted it was a very common issue to Crack the factory connector I just never found a pinout like he posted.

 

The Blu/Yel wire is only needed for Keyless unlock, so I assume the locks now lock and unlock from the switch on the driver's inside door panel.

Test the Blu/Yel wire for continuity between the control unit and radio connectors as shown in the control unit input test diagram in post #6.

 

I'm really not sure why I was chasing that wire but I thought I saw something about it should send a constant power. I know the ground was acceptable through it, but I haven't checked it for continuity yet as it probably won't be needed. The only wiring messed up was the grounds routed through the power windows and not on their own circuit, and not as advanced with the alarm Functions and taps as I initially thought

No function from the actuator with the wires jumped at the box after confirming proper routing through the door panel to the junction at the fuse panel under the kick panel

New actuator will be here in the morning. I just needed to verify wiring before I could conclude the regulator was dead

 

Dammit. Just re installed everything and found the icm plug Un done.re tested and now I get response from the switch like I need, and when I jump the pins everything works.

So that would be the module great