Hey everyone and thanks for any information

I'm running into an issue with my crv when after driving for awhile it will randomly stall and the car will die. Upon trying to restart it the engine just cranks but will not actually turn on. I've tried searching and got a lot of different information. I just bought the car on saturday so I haven't had much time to drive it around or anything yet since I still need to register it.

The last time it happened I was driving for about 20-30 minutes got home and right as I parked in my driveway (car still in D4 at this time) car dies. I put it in park and it just cranks and cranks. It was late so I'm like humm I'll test some things in the morning. Well to my surprise I go in the morning and car starts right up with no issues. I've been driving my other car and haven't have time to test anything yet. Reading there seems to be a lot of people who say the ignition control module and other say the ignition switch. Any ideas on what I can try to help narrow it down?

 

I'm no mechanic... but it sounds like you're not getting fuel. So worst case scenario is fuel pump. First thing I would do is replace the fuel filter. This is also the cheapest part to fix first and relatively easy.

There are plenty of how-to's and videos online, so I'm going to skip trying to tell you, since I'm not sure on exact details. I did replace mine back in November and it took maybe 30 minutes. Just don't be near any open flames or in a closed garage because you will get a lot of fumes and a little gas will come out of the lines since it is pressurized.

Also, I'm not basing this on my experience. When I bought my V back in Nov, I just started replacing different parts because mine has over 210k on it. Now it's closer to 220k. So yeah. Preventive maintenance.

So I just read again that you just bought it. Not sure on your miles, but it being a 98 it's probably pretty high and also close to 20 years old. So if you're looking to drive for awhile, I would replace these things:

- Fuel filter
- Air filter
- Spark plugs & wires
- Distributor & rotor
- Thermostat & Radiator flush. Check hoses for cracks/dry rot.
- Brake pads & rotors (after I bought it I came to realize mine were warped, and it definitely looked like the ones from the factory.) These are a bit harder to replace by yourself.. Unless you get lucky and can get the screws out... Took me about 3 hours just to break the screws out. Blah. Never again!
- OIL CHANGE! I changed over mine to Royal Purple full synthetic. It's a bit pricey, but I live in CO and it gets super cold up here, so I'll spend the extra $15 for the good stuff. Some people say full synthetic isn't necessary, but I can tell you from owning multiple hondas, they don't like starting in super cold weather. Ever since I switched to full syn, I have had 0 starting issues. *crosses fingers*

I also replaced struts/shocks since I could hear & feel mine and knew for a fact they were gone. And... as soon as I pulled my first shock assembly out, the coil spring was broke.

If you don't already, matching tires will definitely help smooth out your ride and handling.

If it's AWD (if you're not sure, look under your rear and look for a rear differential)... change that ASAP with 1 quart of Honda Dual-Pump Fluid Type II. Some people say 1.1 or 1.2 quart or something, but considering there's still going to be fluid surrounding the gears inside the differential 1 quart of brand new fluid is enough. Been driving mine off-road and in snow for weeks now, and 0 problems (or noise) with just 1 quart.

So yeah... there's my 2cents. Probably more than what you're looking for. But I figured I would throw it out there. Good luck!

 

I would guess one of the ignition components. I wouldn't guess as to which one. The bummer of it is you can't really test these ignition parts as long as the engine is in a will start condition.

 

Same thing happened to me before. First thing I did was change the ignition switch due to a recall on them but that didn't work. So I did all the things a mech. Would of done I change fuel pump, fuel filter, dizzy, main relay, ecu...got nothing still stall..then for some odd reason I decided to check my fuse box on the driver side. I tested all the fuse and what do you know I touch one of the fuse and boom the car stalled...I decided to start the car again with a new fuse and touch that same fuse again...car stalled..so I decided to change out the whole fuse box and no problem ever since...hope this helps you I have a 97 crv

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I actually went and did some troubleshooing last friday and narrowed it down to my ICM. I swapped that in for a new one and it's been running great ever since.

 

Thanks for getting back to us with the fix. Was it in a "will start" condition when you did the troubleshooting? If so how did you narrow it down? Did you get a genuine Honda replacement ICM or an aftermarket?

Sorry for all the questions, I just hope to be better educated when something like this comes up on my 2000 CRV.

 

I had the same starting problem too intermittently and it was not the main relay after switching to a new one...

 

So it wasn't during a will start condition since at that time everything will test fine. I had to wait until a no start scenario. Luckily for me I set time away on Saturday to do it and when the car was warming up in the garage it died and wouldn't start. I'll list below what I tested to narrow it down.

1. Test spark plug wires to see if they have spark (mine did not)
2. Remove cap and rotor and inspect (mine looked fine)
3. Test coil to see if it gives spark (mine did not).
4. Test coil to see if it is receiving power (mine did not)

So depending on how your test goes it can be narrowed down fairly easy. In my case I knew the coil wasn't producing any spark, so it came down to 1 of 2 things. If the coil isn't make spark but is receiving power most likely coil bad. In my case where the coil wasn't making spark and also wasn't receiving power either. It was a good sign the ICM was bad.

As for the replacement I used a Import Direct ICM from O'Reillys due to my brother working in their warehouse so I get a discount which makes it significantly cheaper than OEM.

This could also be fuel related but I could hear my main switch clicking over so I knew it wasn't that and Honda fuel pumps don't fail very often from my experience.

 

I have been having this same problem with my 99 Honda Civic. I have owned it 2 years. It did it last winter, and quit during the summer and I haven't had the problem till last week it started it again. (Winter again) So all I have figured out is my Honda doesn't like cold weather. It will begin missing going down the road, then crank a few seconds and finally turn over. It's aggravating. Any help would be great thanks

 

Honda/Acura Main FAQ Page

 

Thanks for the breakdown HybridSeed. I have the same problem. I changed the ignition switch because of that recall even though they said mine wasn't due for one, then new spark plugs. I was thinking I should just get a whole new distributor as then it would cover coil, ICM, and all the wiring and contacts too. But before that I thought I'd change the Crankshaft sensor which I've heard can also cause this problem. Its just such a pain in the butt to do it.

So can a layman change that ICM no problem?

 

A flat out stall (meaning it does not stumble) most of the time points to a crank sensor or an issue central to the ignition system, like the ignitor or the coil itself. NOT the CKF sensor in the timing cover.

If your engine sputters to life or dies with a sputter, you most likely have a non-central ignition or fuel problems. Fuel problems are quite rare on most cars unless these parts were serviced or damaged before.

If you have fuel injector pulse, this can help prove the crank sensor works, the problem is that signal is not triggering the ignitor that fires the plug, the coil is overheating, or the distributor rotor is not turning. Given my experience, you have a wire fault or a part failure within the distributor and its related connectors. Tests should start here.

The ignitor may require removing the distributor for easier access and a set of small, high strength screwdrivers. Don't use cheap tools on these parts! The screw heads can be easily stripped leading to a nightmare on your part. Make sure to index the distributor timing if you do not have a way to set your base timing.

When you reinstall a new ignitor (if you have confirmed that is your problem) make sure to use a thermal compound on the back side of the ignitor and the mounting surface. This helps dissipate heat. Not doing this will seriously shorten the life of the part.

 

Ya, you can definitely change it yourself. I don't remember all the steps exactly but it's not too hard at all. I'll list below what I can remember just off the top of my head. On a scale of 1-10 i'd say it's like a 2? Should only take you like 20 minutes.

1. Remove distributor cap
2. Remove rotor it'll have a little slot with a screw with a Philips head. (1 scew, may have to crank it a little to get the rotor to spin where you can access the screw easy)
3. Unplug the wires running to the ICM (think there are 4 maybe 5 little connectors you can just pull off)
4. Remove screws holding in ICM (think there were 2?)
5. Remove heat sink (2 screws, also if your replacement doesn't come with thermo paste get some and apply a thin layer)

Installation is a reverse of the steps. Sorry they are vague I don't remember everything exactly without taking it apart again lol. Hope it helps though.

 

I suggest you trouble the coil/icm. I heard that once it heats up it shuts down. Do the test once the car dies, to do this read through the faq guide on checking the coil and icm or print out the instructions and have the DMM and necessary toosl with you at all times. Once the car shuts down pull over somewhere safe and diagnose the components. If all tests fall within spec than you know its not your distributor.