How to make an all motor b16a2?
I have a 1999 civic si and thought of going all motor with my b16a2.
How much will just the labor cost?
I want to make at least 185whp or more going all motor with some bolt ons.
What i can think of is going
Skunk2 camshaft
Skunk2 valve spring and retainers
CTR pistons or some other aftermarket pistons
What else am i missing?
How much will just the labor cost?
I want to make at least 185whp or more going all motor with some bolt ons.
What i can think of is going
Skunk2 camshaft
Skunk2 valve spring and retainers
CTR pistons or some other aftermarket pistons
What else am i missing?
Well lets start with where you live? then lets get into what kind of budget you have? You want to basically increase you WHP by as much as 35% depending on how much your car is making now. Also it would be nice to know where your starting at so you can know how far you have to go depending on the health of the motor.
As for Parts You will need Stage 2 or 3 Cams a new set of valve springs depending on what cams, a higher flowing Intake Manifold, a good Header and a descent 2.5'' catback set up and an ECU re-tune that might...might get you close but probably still short... a serious Head porting job would get you there with all the rest of those parts. A good porting job will net you alot of power with the right cams IMF and Header
As for Parts You will need Stage 2 or 3 Cams a new set of valve springs depending on what cams, a higher flowing Intake Manifold, a good Header and a descent 2.5'' catback set up and an ECU re-tune that might...might get you close but probably still short... a serious Head porting job would get you there with all the rest of those parts. A good porting job will net you alot of power with the right cams IMF and Header
you say "I want to make at least 185whp or more going all motor with some bolt ons." but then talk about cams and pistons, those arent bolt ons. You will have to do those to get to 185whp. My b16 did 144whp with custom intake full exhast (ebay header) and a hondata tune on a mustang dyno.
Just from my local shop rates You would be looking at roughly:
Hot Tank Cleaning for Cylinder Head, Block, misc parts: $100+
(yes you need this if your getting any serious work done ie: pistons/ head machining)
Rotating assembly balance: $130+
(if getting new pistons and/or rods this is a must)
Block Bore/Bore measurement/distortion check $80+
(again very necessary when new pistons go in)
Crank Check/ polish/ assemble rotating assembly $60+
(not all of this work is necessary if you know how to use plasti gauge to check clearances)
Head Machining: there are several different services that can be counted under this.
Porting/polish: $350-1400
(There are several degrees of how aggressive this can be done and different techniques/ equipment used to do this service, generally a more basic street port by hand will come in on the lower end of this while full race style porting by CNC runs alot higher)
3 angle Valve job $200-450
(depends if you simply get the valve angle job done or have them re seat/lap valves and assemble)
These prices are what you can typically expect but are not exact for some of these services and may be more expensive or cheaper depending on if you have all work done at once or get different services done by different sources. Every machine shop will have their own pricing structure and not all will be as skilled particular needs a Honda B-series head require to be beneficial vs whatever they generally work on or specialize in. As the old saying goes, You get what You pay for.
Hot Tank Cleaning for Cylinder Head, Block, misc parts: $100+
(yes you need this if your getting any serious work done ie: pistons/ head machining)
Rotating assembly balance: $130+
(if getting new pistons and/or rods this is a must)
Block Bore/Bore measurement/distortion check $80+
(again very necessary when new pistons go in)
Crank Check/ polish/ assemble rotating assembly $60+
(not all of this work is necessary if you know how to use plasti gauge to check clearances)
Head Machining: there are several different services that can be counted under this.
Porting/polish: $350-1400
(There are several degrees of how aggressive this can be done and different techniques/ equipment used to do this service, generally a more basic street port by hand will come in on the lower end of this while full race style porting by CNC runs alot higher)
3 angle Valve job $200-450
(depends if you simply get the valve angle job done or have them re seat/lap valves and assemble)
These prices are what you can typically expect but are not exact for some of these services and may be more expensive or cheaper depending on if you have all work done at once or get different services done by different sources. Every machine shop will have their own pricing structure and not all will be as skilled particular needs a Honda B-series head require to be beneficial vs whatever they generally work on or specialize in. As the old saying goes, You get what You pay for.
185 whp is stretching it with that 77mm stroke.
it can happen but you will need different pistons and higher compression.
however, some stage1 cams and valvetrain in your head slapped on either a stock gsr block or an ls block with the arp rod studs should likely make your goal. it will be much nicer to drive with more tq as well
it can happen but you will need different pistons and higher compression.
however, some stage1 cams and valvetrain in your head slapped on either a stock gsr block or an ls block with the arp rod studs should likely make your goal. it will be much nicer to drive with more tq as well
Is it your daily driver? If so, buy a 1.8 or 2.0 short block and build that as time and funds allow. When it's all done, pull current motor, swap block and other parts in and reinstall. Car is only down for a weekend, which saves you hassle and money. You stay within a budget since you are able to acquire parts at your own pace and as money becomes available. You can hit your goal easily with a 1.8 block and some more reasonable pistons.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
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Is it your daily driver? If so, buy a 1.8 or 2.0 short block and build that as time and funds allow. When it's all done, pull current motor, swap block and other parts in and reinstall. Car is only down for a weekend, which saves you hassle and money. You stay within a budget since you are able to acquire parts at your own pace and as money becomes available. You can hit your goal easily with a 1.8 block and some more reasonable pistons.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
For example this power could be obtained with a complete high flow intake and exhaust, some more compression ratio with a 2 layers or 1 layer cometic headgasket, and maybe a port&polish with a nice ecu tune ; I'm sure you reach 185hp with a stock B16A2
Why using a 1.8 or 2.0 "short bloc" ? (I'm french) I think the B16 is widely enough to produce around 185hp.
For example this power could be obtained with a complete high flow intake and exhaust, some more compression ratio with a 2 layers or 1 layer cometic headgasket, and maybe a port&polish with a nice ecu tune ; I'm sure you reach 185hp with a stock B16A2
For example this power could be obtained with a complete high flow intake and exhaust, some more compression ratio with a 2 layers or 1 layer cometic headgasket, and maybe a port&polish with a nice ecu tune ; I'm sure you reach 185hp with a stock B16A2
personally if you are wanting N/A power, i'd sell the b16 altogether. B16 is more suited for a boost build. Then pick up a b20 and scrounge up a vtec head. Just the sale of the full b16 should fund the 2.0. deck the block and shave the head some (would have to figure it out) to up the compression. Pick up some adjustable cam gears and dial them in on the dyno.
Why using a 1.8 or 2.0 "short bloc" ? (I'm french) I think the B16 is widely enough to produce around 185hp.
For example this power could be obtained with a complete high flow intake and exhaust, some more compression ratio with a 2 layers or 1 layer cometic headgasket, and maybe a port&polish with a nice ecu tune ; I'm sure you reach 185hp with a stock B16A2
For example this power could be obtained with a complete high flow intake and exhaust, some more compression ratio with a 2 layers or 1 layer cometic headgasket, and maybe a port&polish with a nice ecu tune ; I'm sure you reach 185hp with a stock B16A2
Depends on whether the OP wants to get his 185 "or more" easily, or expensively. A mildly built 1.8L can break 200whp pretty easily with a smartly chosen combination of parts, a thorough build, and a decent tune... and have more power under the curve every time.
Bingo. 185bhp is roughly what, 160 at the wheels on an inertial dyno? Conversely, 185whp works out to be around 210bhp, which is screaming for a streetable 1.6, IMO.
Before anyone gets fired up, I'm not saying it's not doable by any means. It's just a matter of practicality and budget. If you put the same amount of money and time into a 1.8 or 2.0, you'll make more power than a 1.6 built to the same level... period. So it stands that you could reasonably put less money into a 1.8 or 2.0 and end up at the same power level, but most likely with a motor that still has better overall performance than said 1.6.
Then again, the words "practicality" and "budget" tend to go out the window as soon as one clicks on the all motor forum
a 1.8 or 2.0 liter block will make more tq which will not require as many rpm to make any given amount of power. and my personal opinion is that for 185whp on a 1.8 or 2.0l type r cams will make that power should peak right about 7800-8000 and have a kickin tq curve from vtec engagement through 6500-7000 rpm making it "easier" to drive. im just saying...
a very big point right here. i wouldnt be surprised if a b16 that made 190 or whatever whp does it at like 8600 rpm and makes less torque than a d16 with bolt ons out of vtec. its power curve would look like a supercharged lawnmower hahaha
a 1.8 or 2.0 liter block will make more tq which will not require as many rpm to make any given amount of power. and my personal opinion is that for 185whp on a 1.8 or 2.0l type r cams will make that power should peak right about 7800-8000 and have a kickin tq curve from vtec engagement through 6500-7000 rpm making it "easier" to drive. im just saying...
a 1.8 or 2.0 liter block will make more tq which will not require as many rpm to make any given amount of power. and my personal opinion is that for 185whp on a 1.8 or 2.0l type r cams will make that power should peak right about 7800-8000 and have a kickin tq curve from vtec engagement through 6500-7000 rpm making it "easier" to drive. im just saying...
https://honda-tech.com/all-motor-nat...b16a2-3212444/
Now it can be done but its not easy, with aggressive tuning, good cams, intake mani, exhaust it should be decently close...tuning is going to make all the difference. Now only problem I have with the "Just do a b18/b20 swap" is that its almost always more expensive because there's just so much more you end up doing/getting because your piecing together a motor instead of just building off and using what he has. The motor swap isn't for everyone.
Well lets start with where you live? then lets get into what kind of budget you have? You want to basically increase you WHP by as much as 35% depending on how much your car is making now. Also it would be nice to know where your starting at so you can know how far you have to go depending on the health of the motor.
As for Parts You will need Stage 2 or 3 Cams a new set of valve springs depending on what cams, a higher flowing Intake Manifold, a good Header and a descent 2.5'' catback set up and an ECU re-tune that might...might get you close but probably still short... a serious Head porting job would get you there with all the rest of those parts. A good porting job will net you alot of power with the right cams IMF and Header
As for Parts You will need Stage 2 or 3 Cams a new set of valve springs depending on what cams, a higher flowing Intake Manifold, a good Header and a descent 2.5'' catback set up and an ECU re-tune that might...might get you close but probably still short... a serious Head porting job would get you there with all the rest of those parts. A good porting job will net you alot of power with the right cams IMF and Header
Is it your daily driver? If so, buy a 1.8 or 2.0 short block and build that as time and funds allow. When it's all done, pull current motor, swap block and other parts in and reinstall. Car is only down for a weekend, which saves you hassle and money. You stay within a budget since you are able to acquire parts at your own pace and as money becomes available. You can hit your goal easily with a 1.8 block and some more reasonable pistons.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
Most importantly, you are not under pressure to cut corners and hurry up because your girlfriend is tired of driving you around.
Thanks for the replies. It's nothing too serious, if so it will be in the future. Money is the problem and if all internal work cost too much i'd rather just upgrade to a faster ride. Main concern is labor because it's quite expensive. Currently have Skunk2 catback exhaust. Putting some bolt ons for now.
Thanks for the replies. It's nothing too serious, if so it will be in the future. Money is the problem and if all internal work cost too much i'd rather just upgrade to a faster ride. Main concern is labor because it's quite expensive. Currently have Skunk2 catback exhaust. Putting some bolt ons for now.
But a B18 short blok is the best solution to get 200 whp without working so much, but you have to open your block...
May think about your gears, shorter ones make the car accelerating faster.
Ok I understand ! thank you spAdam, it was a vocabulary mistake, so "short block" is what we call "bas moteur" in french.
I was asking you because it's a fact that B16 blocks are shorter or less high than B18 and B20 blocks... that's why I didn't understand :p
I was asking you because it's a fact that B16 blocks are shorter or less high than B18 and B20 blocks... that's why I didn't understand :p
I can't read his posts now w/o using a french accent in my head LOL Nothing against the guys, just how my mind works.
Aww dont give up ha just gotta remember not everyone is up to or capable of doing a hybrid swap even if it can give them just what they want. better for people to pick up a project they can actually complete then get in too deep then give up on at least IMO








no problem with that, I know our accent is.... terrible !