Okay so I bought my 2002 LX 5 spd last Wednesday. On the way home on the highway i heard something like a kind of bang and then the car lost a lot of power. Managed to limp it to advance auto and they scanned the cel that came on. I was told the EDL and the TDC sensor. He also told me my alternator showed no power. I replaced the alternator but I quickly realized that the entire unit was extremely loose. I also replaced the TDC sensor and I'm waiting to replace the EDL until i get the car running smoothly. After replacing the alternator and the TDC the car ran awful and included clicks from the ecu and the cel flashing. I read it was a bad ECU so i went ahead and bought a used one from a junk yard. It's the same exact model number. I replaced the ecu today and have yet to get the immobilizer programmed. I just want to make sure before starting the car again I wont fry another ECU. My alternator is tight now and has no play in it. All bolts and grounds of the alternator are good. I checked the ecu ground and that looks to be in alright shape too. I'll post of a picture of that. Just want some insight on if I definitely fixed the issuee with the new alteernator, making it tight and all, and replacing the belt, and replacing an ECU that had symptons of being fried. Thanks everyone. Hopefully this civic will start treating me good lol.

 

As far as I know this is the ECU ground. Does this look alright or does the ground need some adjusting? Thanks

 

The ELD check engine light is due to no output from your alternator. The ELD is your Electronic Load Detector. If your voltage falls too low, then your ECU will throw an ELD trouble code.

Tighten up the alternator, charge your battery, then retest.

 

If you're still gettting the code for the ELD, check the wire connections on the bottom of the under-hood fusebox. If those are fine then get a new ELD. Specifically ask for P/N 38255-S5A-003, otherwise they'll try to sell you the whole fusebox @ $250-ish.

The ELD is under my finger. Take out the fuse to either side and it just pulls right out:



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Referring to your pic- if those 2 black/yellow wires aren't cut it should be fine. If they are, replace the connector. While replacing the connector you might as well clean up any gunk on the other connector and where they touch metal. Just use some sandpaper.

 

Well i definitely will end up running a cel for my ELD. Alternator is now tight and all grounds look good. Just want to make sure I'm okay to run the car without frying anymore ecu's. Don't really wanna keep forking over $100 to honda to get the immobilizer reprogrammed

 

Well when the alternator came loose on the highway i got the cel scanned. They were for the eld and the tdc. Replaced the tdc and alternator and now the ecu has fried symptons. Replaced the ecu and now just waiting for a tow truck to get my to honda for reprogramming. Crossing fingers for a good running car now lol

 

Got car programmed by Honda today. Car died on the way home and wouldn't start. Battery would click. Replaced the battery and charging system checked working good by advance auto. Haven't had any problems yet so I'm really excited to start driving her!!