I'm having a no start issue with my Accord after I cleaned the Internal Air Control (IAC) and Fast Idle Thermo (FIV) valve. The IAC mesh hole was pretty dirty so I sprayed that down throttle body and carb cleaner. The FITV mechanism was dirty so I cleaned that too.

Put it all back together and ran the car twice. It had trouble starting but start and run for a little bit. Went inside and then came back out a bit later and started the car. I noticed it was having issues so I tried cycling it again, that's when it wouldn't start. The lights went on but it wasn't even making a clicking sound and there is no crank.

I thought maybe since it's been super cold here the past few days that the battery needed charging. Checked with a crap HF multimeter read "12.26 volts." Left the battery on a slow amp charger overnight but it didn't make a difference with the no start issue.

Seems switching TPS and MAP sensors is common. I checked all the connections and it looks right to me. I feel like something might just be unplugged but why would it start 2 times?

What could be the issue for not starting? How can I fix this asap?

FYI, I was having an oil leak from the distributor cap, not the seal, so I took that off to clean the inside I need to get a new cap and rotor, since both are slightly worn, and replace that cap gasket. Could that have something to do with the no start?

Advice, tips, how-tos, helpful links, etc. are appreciated.

 

Btw I have a - 4 cyl (F22b2) and it is an automatic.

 

It could be that the IACV is no longer functioning correctly.
Usually remove and clean the IACV screen, not blast the IACV itself. If you did blast the IACV it could have damaged the windings inside.
If you were liberal with the cleaner around the TPS you may have wiped the carbon tracking clean. Check your TPS for proper function with a voltmeter and back probing, same with MAP sensor.
Verified there are no gasket leaks?

If it is not cranking, verify that the solenoid wire on the starter did not get knocked off, back track it to the wire harness and verify it is not damaged.
Remove the solenoid wire and connect to a voltmeter, when you turn the key to III(start) is there battery voltage present? If not then your ignition switch may be worn.

 

Why would that keep the car from starting?

On the IACV and FITV? How?

It looked connected to me but I'll double check. Hard to work on the Accord outside for tool long since it is so F$*@!* cold.

 

If the starter is turning but the engine does not start the IACV may be in a position to not allow the engine to start. It is a stepper valve to adjust idle via the ECU. If the valve is not working correctly it can prevent startup or correct idling of the engine.

Could always put a light coating of grease around the external joint to verify no false air leaks.
If there is no power signal to the starter it won't energize the solenoid.

 

IACV= idle air control valve
FITV= fast idle thermo valve

many functions use the iacv including turning the wheel
the fitv makes sure ur idle is @ 1600 +/- 200 rpm

 

When cold. As the coolant heats up it heats up the wax inside which then closes the FITV air bypass, bringing the idle down to normal.

 

I don't hear it cranking or clicking. Fuses all look good. Honestly I'm thinking something electrical to do with the starter.

 

Before you blame the starter, first verify it is getting battery voltage to the leads. Both the main feed and the solenoid feed when the key is turned to III(start).
If you are unsure if the solenoid circuit is failing, run a jumper wire from the +terminal of the battery directly to the starter solenoid terminal.
If the battery is fully charged the starter will kick and crank.
If nothing still, tap the solenoid a few times while applying power. It may be sticking.

 

Check the starter solenoid wire as requested already and see if its still connected. Then check the main ecu ground attached to the driver side of the intake manifold and see if its connected. If so, take it off and clean any debtis, put it back on and try to start it. If it still wont start clean your battery connections. If it still wont start report back.

 

Cleaned the main ecu ground on the intake, checked the cables, tightened the solenoid wire from the positive terminal... still nothing.

What about a bad main relay? I see a lot of complaints about that on here and other places around the interweb.

 

Pop off the small wire from the starter solenoid and test it for voltage while someone tries to start the car.

 

Did that, it was getting 12volts.

 

Then your issue is starter related. Google search "larry b's starter contacts" and pick up some new starter contacts and swap em in. Should be like $20 or so.

Or you can pull another starter from the junkyard.

Or you can just buy another starter.

 

Could the starter be bad? Unsure it would go just like that!

Seems a lot of people have trouble with the main relay assembly in very hot or cold weather. Pulled that and I'm going to solder it. If it doesn't work I'll look into those contacts I guess or a new starter.

 

The main relay has no control whatsoever over the cranking of the car. Even if its bad the car will still crank. Its possible the battery or your connections are bad but im going by your word that its fine.

 

Did you do any of the previous recommended testing of the starter? Have you verified your battery terminals are clean and tight?
Have you verified your main ground connections, especially the - cable to the transmission is still connected?

As Manny stated, starter motor circuit is not controlled by the ECU.

Before purchasing anything, I would remove the starter solenoid and manually exercise it. I've had old grease gum up the solenoid on non-Hondas causing them to stick.

 

Yes, they are clean and tight. (The negative cable was slightly loose so I stuck a paper clip in there but it made no difference.)

I did check several grounds to make sure they were not detached or dirty. Not "cable to transmission" though, where is that?

 

The dome light and headlights do not dim when turning the key to the start position in the ignition.

 

Update - I decided to inspect both battery terminals more closely. I noticed that the negative clamp and gunk and a good amount of rust inbetween. So I spent time cleaning it with sandpaper and then baking soda and warm water.

Went to start it... still nothing.

I also tried to solder some joints on the main relay, didn't help. There has got to be an open circuit somewhere.

 

The large (-)negative cable from the battery has a small bonding cable that attaches to the body/radiator support(#9 to #15), and the larger cable drops down and bolts directly to the transmission(#9 to #20). Just follow it with your hand.
So if the larger cable was loose/busted/burned up, the smaller bonding cable to the body would still allow the majority(if not all) ancillaries to work. (lights, radio, etc)

Check that both large cables have no to little resistance on the 100 Ohm scale.

Next is to pull the starter and futz with the solenoid, pull it off clean it and check the contacts and resistance of the solenoid, if the solenoid is open then it is bust. Time for a new solenoid or starter.

 

Yes. It's already been narrowed down. But you want it to be something else.

 

Thanks for the diagram and info @mad_mike!

 

Cables have little resistance. However there is corrosion in the positive cable. Should I replace it?

Was going to try to manually jump the starter but I can't get my jumper lead in there. Any tips?

 

If there is no resistance and only a light green corrosion on the exposed copper, it is most likely fine. As long as it is not rotten/broken and the connections are clean and tight it should be fine.
You can simply jump the solenoid power from the large battery cable on the starter, that is constant hot. If the solenoid works a short jumper from where the igntion switch wire connects to the main cable lead should actuate the solenoid and spin the starter. If nothing happens the solenoid may be bad.