93 accord control arm question
Why do you want to press them out? It is easier just to replace the upper arm. You will probably have to take it out to press it out anyway. I have never done it in the car, for that matter, I have never pressed one out.
Harder than it is to loosen 3 nuts and replace the upper control arm. Only $10 more or same price, depending on what brand/warranty you get.
$30 - $60 CDN for complete upper control arm w/ball joint.
$20* - $40 CDN for upper ball joint.....
* Note, the $20 ball joint is the Non-greasable type and does not come with a new boot.
Harder than it is to loosen 3 nuts and replace the upper control arm. Only $10 more or same price, depending on what brand/warranty you get.
$30 - $60 CDN for complete upper control arm w/ball joint.
$20* - $40 CDN for upper ball joint.....
* Note, the $20 ball joint is the Non-greasable type and does not come with a new boot.
They aren't welded and they can be removed with a hammer. The problem may be with getting the new ones properly pressed in and keeping them pressed in.
From my experience with cheap aftermarket ball joints being pressed into a stock upper control arm. They usually require a tac weld to hold them in place and keep them from rocking...... We found that if you do not weld them, they can/will rock in the CA and wear it out. Then you will need to replace them both.
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+1 for just replacing the whole arm. Honda made these a cinch to replace.
I went for the cheap ones on RockAuto (Ultrapower, about $25 each), haven't been installed long enough to know their longevity. I figured they were so easy to replace I would give it a shot. I'm guessing they use the same parts as Dorman.
I used the expensive Moog or Honda branded stuff for everything else since it's much more labor to replace the lower ball joint or tie rod end.
I went for the cheap ones on RockAuto (Ultrapower, about $25 each), haven't been installed long enough to know their longevity. I figured they were so easy to replace I would give it a shot. I'm guessing they use the same parts as Dorman.
I used the expensive Moog or Honda branded stuff for everything else since it's much more labor to replace the lower ball joint or tie rod end.
I will add one thing for people who might have lowered front ends. If you are using some kind of camber adjuster on the inside mounts of the UCA, it is possible for the outer tip of the UCA to contact the inner fender panel on a hard bump. If this happens, the UCA bottoms out and the knuckle drives the ball joint out of its seat. It won't go far because the UCA will keep it in somewhat the same place, but the camber will be a mess! So make sure the UCA doesn't bottom out.
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