I've got my 97 accord lx torn down f22b2 engine, non vtec, going to take head in, gonna do timing belt and water pump at same time. Got special tool to hold crank, but can't break loose. Ideas?

 

Did you try it like the DIY on this site?

http://www.iammike.org/htmods/HowToR...-WaterPump.pdf


Great write up worked for me. Maybe you already tried this but:

Use a floor jack stand under the extension bar with the 19 mm socket. It will give it support when you are pushing down and help keep it straight and level.

 

I use basically the same approach except instead of a jack stand to support the extension, I use a teenager.

Before I get to the long pipe, I let it soak in PB blaster overnight, pound on it with an air impact wrench to loosen corrosion a bit, then get the big wrench and pipe out.

Had one this didn't work on and had to heat the bolt with a small propane torch, that did the trick. If it comes to this absolutely replace the crank seal. It should be changed anyway but I know people skip this step. Also don't heat too long or it could warp the belt cover.

 

A jack stand might work better Than SOME teenagers!! LOL

 

Thanks for the link Wagon97, and the rest of the posts. Was finally able to break it loose after a day of trying(HF 27" breaker bar and some old muscle). Thank you all for the info and A jack stand would have been more help than MY teenager! LOL

 

That's so true. In this house teenagers that want to drive are expected to help maintain their cars. They may decide when they get older to use a shop for everything, but at least they will be smart enough too recognize BS when they here it.

The other day my son had to change a tire for a friend at school. Kid said his dad hadn't got around to teaching him how to change a tire yet.

 

That's going to be my goal soon approaching. Good Job!

Mscuime53 I don't know if you finished your timing belt job yet but there are also some great videos for doing this job out there for are cars. If needed ill search my computer for links

Good luck!

 

Hey Belairbrian,
My teenager just got his permit so car care is on his horizon. My Dad taught me valuable lessons in doing things yourself and learning, and that tradition will be passed along. Thanks for your help and replies!

 

they can be a real bitch to break loose, support the extension with a jack stand, I weigh over 200 pounds, and I had to stand on a long pipe on a breaker bar, then jump on it, to break a D series one loose, When I got the new nut, there was a new two step tightening procedure from Honda, that was supposed to deal with this issue

 

when I had to get mine out...I tried everything mentioned and the only thing that worked was a 1000ft/lb impact gun. took about a minute of use before it finally broke and came out. I had to buy the gun for this purpose...but it saved a lot of time.

 

Apple cider in a spray bottle
soak and wait a few hours stuff is better than PB for this b cuz it eats the rust seal on the bolt

 

Best thing on the market is Kroil. Only available to industrial customers. Its made by Kano labs.

 

I've been trying to find the instructions with the new bolt, you do have to replace that bolt when you pull it, they stretch during installation, I know they specified using the tool to tighten the new bolt a specific number of degrees, to run the engine for five minutes without driving the car, then to tighten to a regular torque spec, the bolt and torque was re engineered to solve the issue

 

And here I am putting Apple cider vinegar on my salad....lol! Who'd a thunk it?????? That's really good to remember. I am interested in what lostforawhile had to say. I could see the stretching of original bolt possibly becoming a future issue. Have read other posts of guys pulley coming off.

 

it's a known issue of them getting stuck, then coming loose when you reuse them, I had ordered a new bolt when I did the timing belt on the 98 a few years ago, and it came with a paper that explained the bolt had been redesigned and it showed the new procedure for tightening it. It was ordered from a dealer over the net, I just can't think what I did with that paper

 

So now I have the head back and torqued, do I need a new crankshaft bolt? Lostforawhile says I need a new one, any other thoughts or experiences?

 

If you torque it to spec you do not need another one.