Some people say that the P0A ECU can't run the F23A VTEC Engine, but those who actually used it seems to say it runs the engine like stock. This is for a stock DD accord. I have a F23A available since the stock F22B is dead, I really just want it to run okay with no CEL or issues. I don't care if it gets 2mpg less mileage or is slightly less power. Those who have experience using this ECU and engine, did you have any problems? Thank you in advance.

 

If you use the distributor from the 94 and connect all the vacuum lines as was originally done, and use the 94 throttle body, it should run like a 94. The F23A was tuned for economy and emissions so you might get a little more performance out if it using the 94 ECU. It really depends on how the F23A1 cam stacks up against the F22B1 cam. Won't be much difference in any case.

Maybe what those people mean is that a 94 ECU can't run an F23A1 using the distributor form that motor.

 

Also using the F22B intake manifold, so it can use the correct 2-wire IACV instead of the 3-wire IAC on the F23 manifold (or modify the 2-wire to fit the F23 manifold). It seems like it would work just fine.

Yeah the distributor would have to be swapped out. From what I read I think it's a common thing where someone who never actually tried something says it won't work. It seems like the ones that said they actually tried it, they said it ran fine.

 

If you use the F22B manifold and distributor the rest should all be the same. If you use the F23A manifold, you will have to deal with the vacuum lines, the IACV, and the fuel rail. But you can use the fuel rail off the F22B with no problems. In any case, if you have an auto trans. you will need to use the F22B throttle body.

 

It's a manual transmission car. Aren't the F22B1 VTEC distributors 180* off from the F22B2 distributors? Should I get a F22B1 distributor instead and just route the wires out to the factory external coil?

 

If the motor in your car is an F22B2, then you will need another ECU. No way to activate the VTEC with your old ECU, and without it your motor will be dead. That means you would need an ECU from a F22B1, wiring harness, and distributor. And the ECU would have to come from a 94 or 95 EX with manual trans. which is not all that common.

 

Yes, that is why I asked about the P0A ECU. No need for the wire harness, I can add the VTEC wires to the existing harness.

So I should just get the OBD1 F22B1 distributor instead of making the F22B2 distributor work?

 

If it was me i would call up rywire and have them make you a distributor conversion kit. Then it will just be plug and play after getting the b1 internal coil dizzy.

 

Distributor is 180 off if using the F22B2 distributor. I'm running the P0H ECU in my '97(96-97 VTEC ECU) with a full F23 swap. Using my F22B2 external coil distributor. Dizzy bolted up like normal, but had to switch the position of the plug wires to get it to run. Rosko IACV adapter on the F23A1 manifold. Ebay header. BIG difference in power compared to the F22B2. Ran three wires for VTEC as that's what the F23A1 required. I ran it off the F22B2 ECU for about two weeks before I tracked down the P0H and wired VTEC, was a dog above 4000RPM. My car is just fine now, but I wouldn't mind the internal coil distributor from the F22B1 as #2 and #3's plug wires don't have much slack, and I've had to make-shift mount the external coil using some random bracket off the F22B2 and a big hose clamp. It works, it's not pretty though. I took the F23A1 down to a bare longblock, transferred over all F22B2 sensors that I could, eliminated the knock sensor in the F23A1's block using the F22B2's plug, and can't think of much else. F22B2 wiring harness was used, just had to add the VTEC wires. All factory F22B2 emissions remain.

Shoot me a message with any questions, or post here, and I'll clear up what I can. It's a very simple, straight forward swap and I was invested about $500 total. Look at my build thread linked in my signature.

Here's two crappy pictures to not really kind of help:

(previous intake setup, H23 factory box and tube)

And for reference, the F22B2 with the ebay header and F23A1 intake manifold swap:

 

Biggest difference is I deleted A/C and relocated the secondary o2 sensor to the rearward position of the F22B1's header/manifold design; I made an extension harness, but I think if the F22B2's harness is dissected a bit(which I've done now), this would not be necessary. I'm still running my home made extension with no issues but may remove it to keep the excess slack of the extension from hanging. I forget which throttle bracket I used, but the cables had to be adjusted accordingly. Kept cruise. F22B2 coolant outlet elbow used. I was in a bit of a rush when I did it so I could have a running car again, but I remember 99% of what's necessary. Almost everything on the harness lines up. The IAT sensor wiring was extended about a foot, as well, when I did the intake manifold swap on the F22B2. IAT sensor position didn't change when I went with the F23A1.

 

Wow thank you, you answered pretty much all of my questions. You basically have the OBD2 equivalent of what I want to do. Did you reuse the F22B2 plug wires is that why there isn't very much slack or did you use the F23 wires? Also, did you use the F23 driver's side engine mount bracket or put the F22B2 bracket on to use the stock mount?

 

The F23 wires have to be used because of the difference in the valvecover depth: the F23's are longer and the F22B2's won't reach. I'm sure a set from an F22B1 would work, but not an F22B2's. The reason they're pretty tight is because of the firing order differences(I think 2-3 and 1-4 were switched on the distributor, I forget). I'm 99% sure an F22B1 distributor would solve the issue.

I used the F23's engine mount bracket, using the stud/bolt from the F22B2 bracket. The mount(with the rubber 'bushing') was F22B2. The body side mount bracket had no change.

I'm sure there's minor differences between the emissions systems of the F22B1 and F23A1(not sure about the intake manifold's fuel injector air port thing, I think OBD1 F22B1's used it, too), so unfortunately, I can't be much of a help there. I wish I wasn't so rushed, I would've done a complete walk through of what's needed. It really is almost as simple as taking the F23A1 down to the bare long block and swapping everything that's necessary from the F22B2 onto it.

 

I have a question
I own a 97 accord my f22b2 non vtec dead so I swap Jdm f23a
I'm still using my stock throttle body
my dizzy and my stock wiring and ecu
I want vtec work
but my question can I used the throttle body from f23a and what modifications do I need to do
I have auto transmission also

 

I'm using a 1994 Honda Accord Manual Trans. F22B2 ECU.
Swapped an F23A into it. Kept the original wiring harness, i'm using the F23A Alternator and Intake Manifold. EGR from the F22B2, I'm also using the rosco racing IAC plate adapter to use the F22B2 IAC onto F23A Intake Manifold. Using F23A fuel rail and plugs/wires. Kept the F22B2 distributor and ignition coil, the car is currently not running.

I get the SRS, Brake, and Seat Belt light. But I get no Battery or Check Engine Light. Need help

 

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