96 civic Dx/b18c type r swap/chipped p72 --> not revving over 7k
I have a 96 civic Dx, swapped with a b18c type r running a chipped p72. But it's not revving over 7k it should rev to 8400? Correct me if I'm wrong. I just ordered a new basemap cause I thought it was that but it's not. Can someone help about this problem?
It has a check engine light on, I haven't checked what it is I think It might be second o2 sensor. And yes car is fully warm.
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I'm not hatin...but...why post here before even checking your CEL? And why not even mention the CEL in your post? Do you have the only ECU on the planet that doesn't care about CEL's?
The engine will rev as high as the ECU tells it to. The ECU doesn't know or care what engine is in the bay. It will let it rev till it explodes if the ECU is programmed to do that. ECU's are so heartless.
ECU's control engines. CEL's change how the ECU runs the engine.
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Also, the 8400 redline is for the OEM ECU. If you have a basemap, then that basemap might be burned to only spin to 7k. That would make sense - the company that made the basemap doesn't want you to blow your engine up because it wasn't built or maintained correctly, and then have you turn around and blame their basemap. It's a safety thing. Take the car to a tuner. Get them to properly tune your car. A basemap is ONLY supposed to be used to drive to your tuner, and no further. If you're using it to DD, every revolution of that crankshaft is you risking your motor.
I got the cel codes checked at oreilly and it couldn't be read or something. And I thought it was the basemap so I ordered a new one with a redline at 8400 for a b18c and it wasn't that. So what do y'all think and advice me now?

Of course O'reilly can't read the codes. When you converted to OBD1, which you would have had to do to chip your ECU, you also killed the OBD port. Click this link, pull the codes yourself, and post them here for further diagnosis.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...lists-1901557/
You wouldn't. You don't need to. It is entirely unneccessary, unless you are legally required to have it for inspection/e-testing.
Then you're screwed unless you revert everything you did. Should have checked with emissions before you did the swap.
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If you need a OBD port that works, you'll need a OBD2 ECU. Then you need to make sure it can pass OBD2 emissions. This only matters at emissions time.
You cannot tune an OBD2 civic/integra ECU that corresponds with your car.
For that reason....you have a OBD1 ECU. A chipped OBD1 ECU.
You have to pull the codes with a paper clip. Do it while the car is running.
You cannot tune an OBD2 civic/integra ECU that corresponds with your car.
For that reason....you have a OBD1 ECU. A chipped OBD1 ECU.
You have to pull the codes with a paper clip. Do it while the car is running.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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So for emmisions I need an obd2 ecu for my car or motor? And get the codes doing the paper clip to connector. And fix the problem? For it to pass?
Then you should have done some research before diving headfirst into a project you don't understand. You need to hunt down the proper OBD2A ECU, which would be a P73.
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He can use a OBD2A P72 or any other manual trans OBD2A civic/integra ECU for emissions. VTEC, non VTEC....D series B series (except a Y7 or Y5 ECU) It doesn't matter.
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Idk if this is a for real post.
Start by retrieving your current codes first. You're only confusing yourself further.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
You found multiple north american P73's? Or JDM ones?


