ITR Buying Advice
Hi,
I am moving back home to California shortly and I have been interested in buying an ITR for sometime. I have been waiting because the weather in California is easier on cars than most if not all other states. Does anyone have any information for me on the quirks of different model years? And what should I look out for when buying (Clones of course). Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I am moving back home to California shortly and I have been interested in buying an ITR for sometime. I have been waiting because the weather in California is easier on cars than most if not all other states. Does anyone have any information for me on the quirks of different model years? And what should I look out for when buying (Clones of course). Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
best bet would be look at the vin and make sure its a type-R of course.
asides from that, lower rear sway bar should be visible, whereas the other models are missing this (and its not easily "swapped" on, since there are no mount points)
asides from that, lower rear sway bar should be visible, whereas the other models are missing this (and its not easily "swapped" on, since there are no mount points)
my advice is to buy the best one you can afford. the more original, the more it will hold its value. check vin to make sure it is a real type r, from there, check fenders, doors, rear trunk hatch all for matching vin stickers. make sure the badge number is in place on the center console lid.
theres the ITR registry that you can read and that should also give you insight before purchase, heck the potential car you buy might already be on the registry.
otherwise go into as if you were buying any other honda, check for rust, drive it, look it over really well.
i always take a knowledgeable friend that isnt emotionally committed to buying the car.
theres the ITR registry that you can read and that should also give you insight before purchase, heck the potential car you buy might already be on the registry.
otherwise go into as if you were buying any other honda, check for rust, drive it, look it over really well.
i always take a knowledgeable friend that isnt emotionally committed to buying the car.
Quirks is an odd term, do you meaning differences? Rather than have the a bunch of random (some accurate some inaccurate) responses I would encourage you to do some reading here to research your upcoming purchase:
Integra Type R Registry
Integra Type R Expo / Integra Type R Club of America (ITRCA / ITREXPO)
Integra Type R Registry
Integra Type R Expo / Integra Type R Club of America (ITRCA / ITREXPO)
other than the above advice,
all type R's have a dc231 in the vin number. gsr's are also dc2 but DC231 ensures it is a legitimate Type R.
-Carfax is always a good investment(pay $55 for the 1 month account vs. $40 for one carfax, so you can run other cars in case the first wasnt what you were expecting)
-make sure it doesnt grind at high rpms in all gears, or pop out. make sure all gears work too, including reverse.
-make sure that when you turn the key ( dont start it though) that the check -engine light, SRS light, and ABS light ALL light up and then TURN OFF when -you start the car.
-make sure it drives straight going highway 65+ mph when you let go of the steering wheel
-if you are in California, or a state that requires smog testing, make sure the seller smogs the car before a transaction is made.
-check if all electrical items work, ie; windows, locks, a/c, power steering, interior&electrical lights, low beams/high beams, turn signals front & rear, windshield wipers, radio etc.
ALSO, if the car is local and you DO buy it and you DONT have a garage(but even if you do have a garage this could be a useful theft deterrent) put the car's address on the pinkslip (both their part that they turn in to dmv, and your part that you turn in to get it registered) under a family member's address. I know people that have bought em'1, gsr's type R's and used their address as they should and have had it stolen. You just never know how shady the seller could actually be. They could have an extra key etc etc. It's a rare car.
just my 2cents
all type R's have a dc231 in the vin number. gsr's are also dc2 but DC231 ensures it is a legitimate Type R.
-Carfax is always a good investment(pay $55 for the 1 month account vs. $40 for one carfax, so you can run other cars in case the first wasnt what you were expecting)
-make sure it doesnt grind at high rpms in all gears, or pop out. make sure all gears work too, including reverse.
-make sure that when you turn the key ( dont start it though) that the check -engine light, SRS light, and ABS light ALL light up and then TURN OFF when -you start the car.
-make sure it drives straight going highway 65+ mph when you let go of the steering wheel
-if you are in California, or a state that requires smog testing, make sure the seller smogs the car before a transaction is made.
-check if all electrical items work, ie; windows, locks, a/c, power steering, interior&electrical lights, low beams/high beams, turn signals front & rear, windshield wipers, radio etc.
ALSO, if the car is local and you DO buy it and you DONT have a garage(but even if you do have a garage this could be a useful theft deterrent) put the car's address on the pinkslip (both their part that they turn in to dmv, and your part that you turn in to get it registered) under a family member's address. I know people that have bought em'1, gsr's type R's and used their address as they should and have had it stolen. You just never know how shady the seller could actually be. They could have an extra key etc etc. It's a rare car.
just my 2cents
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Smurf
Acura Integra Type-R
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Jul 9, 2001 06:54 PM




