Hey guys, New clutch feels amazing with the re-bearinged tranny on my 1997 Accord LX. Now it is time for the front and maybe back brakes. Should I just do a straight replacement of the rotors and pads? Or do a retrofit to floating rotors? Just the front. The back I will just do a straight replacement if needed. What are your opinions?

 

Any reason why you need to change them? Are they out of service or have excessive runout? If not, leave them be. And when you need to change them, if you have no records of the wheel bearing being replaced, do that as well.
If you plan on tracking the car a bit then going to the floating rotor would be beneficial for having a set of track pads and rotors and easier installation.

 

I don't have a service history on the car and my car is starting make a slight grinding noise from the front passenger wheel at some points after using the brakes pretty hard. It goes away after a love tap to the brake pedal. But I know the pads are pretty much done. I was gonna check the thickness of the rotor with a caliper tool when I get my hands on them. But if they are within spec then I will get some emery cloth and get the gloss off. Last time I looked at the rotors I had a small lip along the outer circumference of the front. Don't know if that helps at all.

But anyways, I figure it would be good maintenance for it since I don't have a history in between 2003-me(08/2014)

 

I converted to ROH because I plan on keeping my wagon for a long time. The wheel bearings were 238K miles old and the rotors needed to be changed anyway. I think the upgrade was worth it since you will need to buy rotors and pads anyway. I also replaced the ball joints while I had the knuckles out, too.

 

Oh okay sounds good. I'll see what I will do after I fix this new problem which is...

I was driving on US-101 going back to school and I was doing about 75MPH at some point I feel a hard shake and I lose all gauges and powersteering so I probably stalled. Which is weird because I wasn't anywhere near the clutch so it was still engaged. Before I went to put my foot on the clutch to try to restart at highway speed it has a hard shake again and works like nothing happened. Little scary so help??

 

If the gauges turned off as well, I would suspect your ignition switch may be worn.
Do you have a heavy set of keys hanging off the ignition?
If you drive the car on a smooth road(no traffic) and jiggle the keys does the car cut out? If so it is probably time to replace the ignition switch.

 

I need bearings, I will probably do a ROH conversion even though my car is long in the tooth.

Those captive rotors really suck.

 

I converted my old cb7 when I had it. I opted to go with brand new parts and to up grade to Prelude VTEC calipers and rotors. Cost me around $500 about 7 years ago.




If you plan on keeping the car,Id definitely do the ROH conversion,much easier to DIY brake jobs in the future. The Prelude conversion isn't necessary and will likely cost you much less as a result.