Would this middle rocker arm need to be replaced ?? Feels like the can lobe has been digging a bit on the pad

 

Yes. Options are replacing or fixing.

 

How would I get this fixed ???

 

Well if the motor is out its very easy pull out the shaft and replace the rocker arm with a replacement, I highly doubt you can pull the oil shaft out enough with the engine still in the chassis to pull out the rocker cause it might get blocked by the chassis but its possible, or another option is to pull the head which would be the last resort, or maybe lift the motor up high enough out the engine bay to pull the shaft all the way out.

 

Damn...that thing is hammered. Probably the worst I've ever seen. I'd just look into getting a different set. Probably faster and cheaper.

 

Thanks for the input guys, greatly appreciated .

 

Poor oil, this has been discussed, use a oil designed specifically for Flat tappet camshafts

 

I've seen that rocker wear so many times with most blaming it on binding or bad oil. I have not definitively nailed down a fix as I have seen this on torco, motul etc. Have yet to see anyone offer a well thought out, detailed theory about why this occurs, and 99% on the exhaust side. Obviously that part of the rocker is the most susceptible to wear because of being the farthest point inboard. I've seen h22 do this with stock cams and stiffer springs, with zinc, phosphate and moly rich oils.

 

its happened twice to me. twice on crower cams and crower valvetrain. once with mobil 1, once with amsoil.

whats weird is how tough and hard those suckers are. my bandsaw didnt even scratch them when I was making a head cutaway. walked inside for a second and realized i should probably remove the rockers and shafts....bandsaw blade was sitting on the rocker pad doing nothing lol.

whatever it is, is heat and metallurgy related.

 

I think the H series has a few other variables.

I've worked closely with alot of guys who had consist wear of wear arms/camshafts.

I "believe" i've narrowed down one cause with camshaft lobe design.. Oil is still a very important part of it. Search Speed Talk, Flat Tappet oils, there's alot of good information over there as well in regards to this..

 

Yeah sorry guys I'm new to this . doing my first rebuild on a head. Lol

 

One PR3-head what I bought years ago have allmost or even worse folowers. It was run with JUN 3 and JUN-springs. Primary rockers were like nothing but all VTEC-rockers were worn out. I think it's just oil quality (little or no ZDDP at all) and too long change intervals.

 

I have seen that with really good oil too (Motul 300v). Same oil and no wear on the long term, same oil and wear. Explain that.
Also, same cam ran on the long term no problem, other time it eat rockers.
I do not see the cause black and white yet. Thx

 

Allow me to add to the mystery. When I took my stock cams out of my H22A to replace them with Skunk drop-in cams, my pads appeared to all be in pristine condition. Thing is, I know the guy I bought it from didn't take very good care of it. One of the ways that I know this is because when I drained the oil before taking the motor out, maybe two quarts drained out.
So is it really oil that is the problem?

I'd like to hear more theories on this to add to the memory bank

 

Im starting to believe it's a combination of all the things mentioned. Oil quality, cam opening ramps, and oil supply itself.
Higher lift cams with stiffer springs no doubt put more wear on rocker contact surfaces.
If the oil is good (sufficient zddp and molybdenum) and routine maintenance is done, I think more oil volume may help. I like the idea of running more oil to the head whether it's from an additional oil supply line or opening up the head oil control orifice to let more oil volume get to the rockers. I will be slightly enlarging my head oil control orifice on my current project.

 

Also has to do with incorrect lash and/or VT setup. Valve flat and cause some serious issues as well..

I've never been a big believer in motul. Again, A oil that specifically made for Flat tappets is what you need to be using - Oil may not be the end all be all, but i'll guarantee you its more then 50% of the problem.

 

DDTECH This is such a vauge question but what is the ideal oil to use in a mild to built honda motor specifically the B series? My Motor is built pretty well besides a stock bottom end pushing 300+ WHP. what would be the ideal oil as far as brand? VR1?? iv been using motul but its very expensive So is royal purple. Iv searched with many mixed opinions on brands.

 

There is a list out, of the top rating oil brands.

I think its safe to say stuff like Brad penn is usually top of the list. But for the everyday racer, sometimes that stuff is as easy to acquire and/or higher price.

The Valvoline family of oils seems to be really good - VR1 black bottle is basically the only shelf oil i'd use.. Yes there is wearing that can happen even using the best oil.. But that can be chalked up to Lobe design, Improper lash setting, improper valvetrain setup / install height among others... there's alot to control but oil is probably one of "the" biggest controllable problems.

 

Thanks been leaning toward VR-1 gonna make the switch on the next oil change. Another ? no one can give me a clear answer on is when and why is it needed to switch say from 5w30 to 10w30? I have 60K on the engine and been using 5w30 since thats what is recommended by honda for the b series but others tell me its better to switch to 10w30 for better oil consumption among the top reasons.

 

w stands for winter, not weight.

10w30 is the normal standard for oil setup for B series motors. Oil "weight" is also dependent on clearances. I wouldn't run 5w30 unless you live up north and have alot of snow, 5w is usually as thin as water, the first number is normally your start up weight, when cold. Run a thinner oil up north to move it around faster.

 

Thanks man theres still things i don't know about lol. I just might be in contact with you regarding a set of cams for my new setup I'm doing using a Pro charger supercharger. Op sorry for thread jacking!

 

Thanks for making this thread op. I hope to see more theories. This same thing occured to my last build with toda spec b cams. Upon the tear down, the exhaust side is toast; vtec cam lobes and rockers. The intake side was golden.

I have been doing a lot of research about oils.

I will be comparing a lot of different oils for my next build. Royal purple, torco, motul, hydrotex, etc. All will receive oil analysis.

 

in for this!!

 

How did you like the spec b cams ? I have a set and plan to run them for my build.

 

Honestly I loved them. On a stock bottom end gsr I made great power. The vtec was set late because of the lack of compression. But I have a close ratio gear set so I'm always in peak power.

Going back with toda spec c on the new motor. In for more info on this topic.