Ignition Switch problem?
Hi I have a 98 civic ex.
My car started fine when I went to take it to get the tires rotated today. While waiting, I heard the guy at the tire place outside trying to start my car, it started after the guys 6th try. After they were done with my tires, I heard them trying to get my car started again so in, it kept starting then shutting off, after about 12 tries the car stayed on. I got in my car and pulled out of the lot drove like a block and car just shut off, I pulled it to the side of the road and then restarted it and it stayed on and I drove it home with no problems.
Not sure if the problem is the ignition switch. Battery is good, distributor and wires are good, main relay is good.
Any advice will help. Thank you
My car started fine when I went to take it to get the tires rotated today. While waiting, I heard the guy at the tire place outside trying to start my car, it started after the guys 6th try. After they were done with my tires, I heard them trying to get my car started again so in, it kept starting then shutting off, after about 12 tries the car stayed on. I got in my car and pulled out of the lot drove like a block and car just shut off, I pulled it to the side of the road and then restarted it and it stayed on and I drove it home with no problems.
Not sure if the problem is the ignition switch. Battery is good, distributor and wires are good, main relay is good.
Any advice will help. Thank you
It could be the common problem with the ignition switch that certain accords are notorious for.
The fastest way to confirm for the problem is turn the key to position II. All your normal dash lights should light up, fuel pump primes etc. Turn the key to the start position and let go of the key so it snaps back to position II. You do this test with the transmission in drive so the car doesn't try and start when putting the key to position 3. Or in a manual, without pushing in the clutch, once again to prevent the car from attempting to start when putting the key to the position 3 spot.
Do all the dash lights go off at this point? Does turning the key slightly towards position III bring power back onto the dash.
It's actually a TSB for certain Honda Accords but I suspect some other Honda's experience the problem.
This video shows exactly how to fast test the ignition switch for the stall while running situation. At about 1 minute and 10 seconds he demonstrates the fast simple test on the ignition switch problem.
Well made video I found when researching my ignition switch problem:
He then follows it with the continuity tests at the brown plugs themselves.
The fastest way to confirm for the problem is turn the key to position II. All your normal dash lights should light up, fuel pump primes etc. Turn the key to the start position and let go of the key so it snaps back to position II. You do this test with the transmission in drive so the car doesn't try and start when putting the key to position 3. Or in a manual, without pushing in the clutch, once again to prevent the car from attempting to start when putting the key to the position 3 spot.
Do all the dash lights go off at this point? Does turning the key slightly towards position III bring power back onto the dash.
It's actually a TSB for certain Honda Accords but I suspect some other Honda's experience the problem.
This video shows exactly how to fast test the ignition switch for the stall while running situation. At about 1 minute and 10 seconds he demonstrates the fast simple test on the ignition switch problem.
Well made video I found when researching my ignition switch problem:
He then follows it with the continuity tests at the brown plugs themselves.
I had a similar problem to this. The car would start in Position 3, but as soon as the key snapped to position 2, it would die. Using the continuity tests mentioned above, it turned out to be a bad ignition switch on the back of the key lock. Do note if you have to replace the electrical portion on the backside, manual harnesses are NOT the same as automatic ignition switch harnesses.
I had a similar problem to this. The car would start in Position 3, but as soon as the key snapped to position 2, it would die. Using the continuity tests mentioned above, it turned out to be a bad ignition switch on the back of the key lock. Do note if you have to replace the electrical portion on the backside, manual harnesses are NOT the same as automatic ignition switch harnesses.
I've only found one product for the 92-95 Civics and it doesn't specify automatic or manual.
Thanks for replying. The distributor, wires were put in 2 months ago, the plugs about a year ago. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet. I had a check engine light come on about 3 weeks ago and it went off the day after got a P0301 code for cylinder 1 misfire with probable causes being:
1. Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
2. Ignition system concern
3. Blocked/faulty fuel injector
4. Engine mechanical condition
I started my car 6 times today and drove it with no problems, not sure what the kid at the tire shop was doing when he was starting my car yesterday, my car honestly only likes me starting it.
I will keep an eye on it and will try that ignition switch test above.
1. Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
2. Ignition system concern
3. Blocked/faulty fuel injector
4. Engine mechanical condition
I started my car 6 times today and drove it with no problems, not sure what the kid at the tire shop was doing when he was starting my car yesterday, my car honestly only likes me starting it.
I will keep an eye on it and will try that ignition switch test above.
They're sort of interchangeable. An automatic ignition switch works fine on a manual. A manual ignition switch will work on an automatic but you'll be able to take the keys without putting the car in park.
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Thanks for replying. The distributor, wires were put in 2 months ago, the plugs about a year ago. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet. I had a check engine light come on about 3 weeks ago and it went off the day after got a P0301 code for cylinder 1 misfire with probable causes being:
1. Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
2. Ignition system concern
3. Blocked/faulty fuel injector
4. Engine mechanical condition
I started my car 6 times today and drove it with no problems, not sure what the kid at the tire shop was doing when he was starting my car yesterday, my car honestly only likes me starting it.
I will keep an eye on it and will try that ignition switch test above.
1. Vacuum leak affecting one cylinder
2. Ignition system concern
3. Blocked/faulty fuel injector
4. Engine mechanical condition
I started my car 6 times today and drove it with no problems, not sure what the kid at the tire shop was doing when he was starting my car yesterday, my car honestly only likes me starting it.
I will keep an eye on it and will try that ignition switch test above.
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