Found a rust bubble on the right quarter of my recently winter stored #918 today guys. Hold me...

Whats the best way to go about fixing this? It hasn't completely rusted through but I see a bubble and I see a pin sized spec of rust.

any advice is appreciated!

 

Take it to a quality body shop and BAM! If its not too bad they will be able to clean it up, maybe use some preventative products on the area and then re paint the panel. Pretty standard, I wouldn't worry as long as you take care of it before it gets worse. If you have the rubber cancer strips on the car, take them off.

 

Like Devon said, if you're here asking, you better take it to a reputable collision repair facility. It's fairly easy to fix if you have to know-how. Since you're not experienced you will do more damage than good. Just pay the $ and get on with your day.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Ya I should have explained better, I'm definitely not looking to do this myself. There is some surface rust on the chassis that I plan to put some elbow grease on followed by por15 but that's about as far I will go with a DIY. I'm definitely bringing it to a professional in the spring, just not sure what to expect that's all. Do you guys recommend sourcing new ITR quarters to cut and weld? I feel like that would be a pain to find, and the rust will get significantly worse over the winter.

 

any pics of spot of rust?

 

Here's a pic I just took, it's kind of hard to see at this time. The bubbling is kind of covered by the rain drop but its basically where that speck on the exterior portion is. Other quarter has rust under, but hasn't shown any spread to the exterior though.

 

Pic didnt load for me

 

From what you described you don't need to replace quarter panels.

 

here ya go.
that rust is getting pretty bad. its gonna be alot worse than what you can see on the outside. i work in a bodyshop and that forsure goes alot farther than you can see.

 

So what do you think would be the best approach, do I need to source ITR quarters this spring? plus how deep into my pockets will I need to dig to fix this? Mind you both sides are roughly the same. Thanks again BTW, I really appreciate the input on this.

 

Whats the story with the rest of the car? Clean title? Any accidents? Hows the rest of the 1/4?

If you dont need the whole 1/4, or if the rust isnt spread too far, you can have it cut out, and get the same piece from a scrap yard Teggy and put it in. However remember the ITR's dont have side moldings, so if it gets that far, you might run into some troubles.

If you do need a whole 1/4, last i checked the RDOT OEM replacement 1/4's were on backorder until Nov. 8.... They ARE available, and run about $450 i believe. Then body shop labor, and paint and all that. Depending on the shop is going to determine final cost. I was quoted 15.5 hours to remove and replace the 1/4.

 

Car has a clean title and is accident free. I'm the third owner and have all the documents for it since it left the dealer. However, this car has been driven and has surface rust on the chassis which I have to scrub/por15 this spring and pretty much rust in all areas you can't see. Fortunately all those areas are bolt on and I will replace them accordingly. On the flip side, the interior is mint and it still handles as it should. I really hope the quarters aren't that bad and I wont have to source ITR ones. That could be a real pain in the ***, since that's not something that comes around often. Here's how she sits currently, bought for 5250 a year ago.

 

Few points:
1. Driver side doesnt look bad at allllll. - whole 1/4 def not needed. Unless backside is rotted. From previous pic posted, doesnt seem you need a whole 1/4 on that side as well.
2. $5250.... Are you a magician or something? And clean title, no accidents?...Even if it had 200,000 miles at that time, still a good deal. LOL
3. If it's white, and it's a 2000, LHD, it must be Canadian born? Is your Speedo in KPH?
4. If the underside is rusted, buy some stock in PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.... LOL.. You're going to be using a **** ton of it.

Whats heR current mileage at?

Dont be deterred, shes got life in heR....

 

post some other pics of the other wheel arch and around the wheel arch

 

1. Ya the quarters are pretty much how it looks in the pic, its up close you see how bad it actually is.
2. Ya no accidents and clean title documented. I have 3 folders of receipts from Honda dealer LOL
3. Ya speedo is in KPH, its Canadian and unfortunately has felt the harsh winters.
4. I'll post a picture of how bad the underside is, its pretty much all surface rust and replaceable parts. however, both undersides of my door have rust and the hatch also has a bit of bubbling. Also all replaceable pieces fortunately.

Mileage is at 373,xxx KM so about 232,xxx miles
I believe its mostly highway miles, car still runs great and pulls hard and fortunately is still corner balanced. Only real issue is the plethora of imperfections cosmetically.



Came with a brand new ITR exhaust too

& John I'll try to snap some pics of the other side tomorrow

 

I would assume it can be cut out then. UNLESS if you run your hand along the underside of the panel and thats all fcuked as well.

Hold on to all that paperwork and continue to document it. Take extensive pictures of the work that you do.


ITS NOT THAT BAD! Alot of that is surface. It hasnt EATEN it yet. If you have the means to disassemble everything underneath, you have just a few parts you will have to buy to have it looking like new. Its going to be lots and lots of elbow grease and sanding and cleaning. It can def be saved, especially if your going to POR15. With the doors, again you run into the side molding problem. If its not high into the door (which you cant see in pics, so i assume its the seam and inside along the bottom) That can be cut and replaced too.




After all of this, your going to end up wanting to get the whole car resprayed. Gotta do it. It will be worth it, but my guesstimate for all of this work with a full paint job is going to be in the $5,000-$5,700 range. And thats with YOU doing everything on the underside.