I went to the store, everything worked well, when I tried to start the rig again it just clicked a series of clicks. I replaced the starter, charged the battery and now when I turn the key I get electrical drawdown as I would expect and a faint click under the hood. I replaced the ignition switch (not the key cylinder) with one I have on hand and still no luck. When I turn the key to start position the d4 light comes on even though the car is in park, maybe or maybe not related?

 

I suspect that your auto linkage needs adjustment, because if the D4 light is showing you will not be able to start the engine due to the inhibitor switch.

Kev

 

Read this thread and then come back and ask questions if you have them:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-element...start-3226027/

 

I would start right at the source and make sure everything is working.
Get a remote starter switch and hook one wire of the remote starter switch on each of the electrical connections on the solenoid on top of the starter. Push the switch and the engine should spin.

You can do this without a remote starter switch by shorting the two electrical connections on the solenoid together. Should be safe enough with an automatic transmission, just leave the ignition switch OFF.

Start at that end and make sure everything is working first.

 

The D4 light is suppose to come on and go off, your issues are elsewhere.

 

Again – If your D4 light comes on and remains on even though the car is the park position while trying to start, then you need to check and adjust the gear linkage...

 

Did you ever figure out what was going on? I have a 1st gen that repeatedly stalls or won't start and the D4 light is on. I've replaced the ignition switch, (no dice) and the distributor cap, rotor were installed about 10k miles ago by previous owner. (Dealer blames the distributor, cap, rotor and ignitor for $400)

 

Your problem sounds different than the OP here. I assume your engine will always spin over with the starter, is this correct? At first guess, your problem would appear to be an ignition component dieing and coming back alive.

You could narrow it down to an ignition problem, as opposed to a fuel delivery problem, by doing some testing while the engine is in a won't start condition. That way you would know you were barking up the right tree so to speak and possibly save some money from throwing unnecessary parts at it.