Hey what's up HT. Been browsing this site for years but finally decided to make an account today. Anyways on to the issue or should I say issues.

1997 Civic Hatchback. JDM B18C engine swap (looks like a crappy job by the previous owner if I'm honest)

1. 1500 RPM Idle. It idles at 1500 but it isn't a steady idle. It bounces up and down while it's at 1500. While doing this, the motor shakes a little since the RPM's are bouncing up and down in the 1500 range.

2. The smell of gasoline. I always get a smell of gasoline when it's idling after it idles for a bit. At stoplights and such I can also smell oil (it's leaking oil as well near the cam plug)...

3. When I'm driving in first gear slow and the RPM reaches 1500, it bounces there too until I give it more gas. Letting go of the gas makes the whole car jump and the RPM's bounce a bit and then drop like normal. However, I can't push the gas after letting go of it in first gear or the car starts jerking like crazy. Does this in second gear too. So whenever I'm in a parking lot I have to be holding the clutch in or the whole car starts jerking around.

Things I've done so far.

1. Cleaned throttle body.
2. Replaced and calibrated TPS.
3. Checked to make sure all mounts are tight.

Haven't cleaned the IACV but I doubt that's the issue to whole jerking around and 1500 bouncy idle. It's driving me crazy already and nobody seems to know what the issue is. Please help!

 

First clean the IACV fully, use simple green. If problem persists adjust idle screw, the right way, by unplugging the the sensor on the IACV, while the motor is idling, then make adjustments. If it still persists then see what voltage you get from the tps.

 

Will clean the IACV when I get the chance.
TPS Voltage: 0.50 and at WOT I was getting around 4.43

I replaced the TPS today btw. Problem persisted.

 

Also clean the FITV. Also post any CEL codes and the ECU used.

 

Don't have something to scan with. ECU is whatever the b18c came with.

 

You only need a paperclip to pull codes. Click the CEL codes link in my signature.

Well, check what ECU it came with. There's a label that identifies it.

 

P72. And okay I'm checking out the thread right now.

 

Pop open the ECU and look for a socket and chip like this:





If its socketed and chipped, then a tune might be all you need. If it looks like the normal chip is soldered to the board, then its a virgin P72 and your problem lies elsewhere.


The smell of fuel needs to be addressed as its comeing from somewhere. Maybe seepage around the injectors.

 

When cleaning that fitv, thread the wax plunger back in. Or bypass the fitv completely.

Bypassed mine on my z6 and she still idles at 1200 cold on a 14° morning and smooth as silk 700 warm.

And check for vacuum leaks of course.

(overly tight throttle cables and leaking fitvs are vacuum leaks)

So make sure that tps you calibrated wasn't calibrated on a throttle cable that's so tight it's holding the plate open slighty as it screws it all up

 

Have you tried playing with the idle screw in the TB?

do you have oil leaks anywhere? ( I had one once from the oil pan that was leaking on the header and it along with the breather was horrible when at anything below 15 mph)

also does your car only have a breather on the valve cover? (would explain the oil smell at stop)

 

The throttle cable was a little tight when I calibrated it and the car ran more screwed up than before. Fixed that and recalibrated the TPS and ran exactly the same as before I changed the TPS. I also noticed that at WOT using the pedal, it read around 4.47 but at WOT using the actual little bracket thing that pulls the cable, it read around 4.6-4.7 meaning there was a bit more throttle than the pedal was allowing me to use. Kinda weird..
Yes I do have an oil leak near the cam plug and distributor not sure what it is yet. Replaced the Vtec solenoid gaskets, broke a bolt in the process, continued leaking if not worse than before cause of the broken bolt. No it has the hose that goes to the intake or in my case the stock air box "intake". Total "fixes" have been total nightmares with no luck at all.

 

So just FYI what OBD is your car on and how long has it been acting up like this? also which OBD is the ECU?(might need to open it up an see what P72 it is. If its runnig OBD2B that could be an Issue, I had a bud who had terrible Idle issue's in his 99 DX with a 1st gen JDM B16A swap and once he put in a Chipped OBD-1 P28 on a Jumper harness and it ran perfect so that could be something you want to look at.

Now I know a few people will recommend against this but you may want to try adjusting the TPS while the car is running...even though its at the same voltage as the old TPS an all that blah blah blah calibration was done it may not have been right to begin with so try adjusting it by ever so lightly loosening the screws so you can adjust it and that may do the job...worst case scenario you mess it up just shut it down an re-calibrate it. Also getting a TB that deletes the FITV can help save allot of headaches. Also does yours have a CKF sensor on it or not? that could also give an OBD2 ecu fits.

 

I tried this and it fixed my issue for the most part. The idle bounces a tiny bit when I release the gas pedal fast but if I ease off of it, no more jerking around. Thoughts?

 

well if that got you squared away that's awesome

 

About the oil leak.. Here's some pics.
Things that have been done:

1. Vtec Solenoid gaskets (both)
2. Cam seals next to the cam gears
3. Valve cover gasket
4. Installed missing distributor bolts

Things I will be doing tomorrow:
1. Replace cam seal next to vtec solenoid with a metal one.
2. Valve cover gasket again (bought new valve cover).

I'm really hoping it's not the head gasket, but from what I've read, I would definitely have issues if it was the head gasket. Thoughts?

 

Just remember to clean all the surfaces really well...flat razor blade is the best...and just enough high temp RTV an it should all seal nice an tight. Once its all done cover up the electrics and power wash it to get the rest of the oil off.

 

Do you think it's that cam seal next to the vtec solenoid?
I'm hoping it's just the oil traveling down to the right side..?

 

It looks like it could be...also looks like the vtec solenoid might be leaking an if so its usually a cheap replacement....cant hurt to pull it and double check...while your at it I'd recommend pulling the cover off the distributor and check for oil in there as well.

 

Vtec solenoid gaskets were already replaced. Mistake I made was I didn't use Hondabond on it after. May pull it off tomorrow to put some on and seal it better. Everything behind the exhaust manifold is full of oil residue though. Could be that it added up over the years? I got the car like this.

 

Oh yeah it adds up pretty easily...reason for power washing it once you get it all sealed nice an tight. at least then you can start tracking down if there could be others

 

I'm having this same problem. I have to turn heat off at stop due to smell of exhaust/oil coming into cabin so strongly. Does having a filter on breather on valve cover cause this? Where else would a breather be?

 

That's the breather filter while it looks cool its practical benefits may not be worth it to everyone.....when under throttle it allows pressurized oil gasses to escape the crankcase...normally theres a whose that runs the gasses under vaccum directly back into the Air intake to be recycled for emissions purposes but also causes increased fouling of your throttle body, map sensor, intake manifold, intake valves, exhaust valves, pistons, o2 sensors. That filter helps reduce all that but also causes a slight misting of oil over your entire motor over time and some of those oil vapors get sucked right into the cabin because its all of 24 inches away from the cabin fan intake. You could also be burning oil on your exhaust and or have exhaust leaks. Best way to reduce this is to get one of those nice Catch Cans....they range from $20 ebay special to $400 full race 4 AN fitting setup. My buddy took one of the cheap Ebay ones with a receiver and send line put that oil breather filter on the sender line to avoid the oil gas going back into the engine and just had the receiver line dump into the can. with the filter on the end of the return line dumping excess pressure out under the car and not back into the cabin. It does fill half way up every 90-120 days or so since it is a daily driver but its extremely easy to pull out and dump into the used oil during a change.