Has anyone had any good results using the Lucas Trans Fix? I haven't done an oil change yet because the only way I can put my car up is on ramps and I probably won't get a full drain. Can anyone help?

 

Noooooope.

Don't use goos or other 'stop leaks/slipping trans fixer' fluids in your transmission.

Only use the recommended transmission type.

Cleaner/solvents that are designed to be used in hydraulic systems are fine(Sea Foam Trans Tune) as they will break down and remove varnish buildup and sludge.

If you have a leaking seal, fix the seal.
If you have a shift issue, find out why and fix it.

 

Mad Mike...I would love to fix the shifting issue but I haven't got any help on another forum. I own a 98 4 cyl Odyssey and it's biggest issue is downshifting from 2 to 1 when stopping. Cold it shifts fine but when the tranny gets hot it really thumps down to 1. If anyone knows what to fix I would love to know.

 

get a aftermarket trans cooler with a mini fan on it

 

Thanks for the info. I was thinking that myself. I really would like to do my own tranny oil changes but if I use ramps how much of the oil won't drain out because of the angle?

 

theres an up and a down side to aftermarket coolers, maybe you should fix the issue instead of band aid it. An external cooler will just keep cooling, its good to get the tranny warmed up quickly as well, this is done by sending the trans fluid through the radiator in a seperate tube

 

There may be a problem with the transmission. Check for stored codes, not all codes will illuminate the D4 or CEL lamp, preferably use a OBDII scanner to retrieve them. Could be something as simple as a defective 2nd gear pressure switch(will not illuminate D4/CEL lamp) or wiring. Look for leaks or damage to the wire harness.

 

Rebuild the unit. The clutch pressure control valves are prone to leakage, this creates excessive wear on the clutch discs resulting in erratic shift behavior and feel.

There is a shift kit from superior to correct the fluid overheat problem that creates this condition. I would never tell you to not get a trans cooler, especially in an Odyssey.

Modifying the friction of the cooler may help in the short term, but will only work for a short amount of time, if it does at all. Of the 50+ units I have rebuilt, most are Odyssey's.

 

don't use that garbage in your transmission, and don' use solvents, most Honda transmissions has that filter built into them, and all the crap the solvents free up, is going to go straight to the filter, that stuff works fine on a transmission with an accessible filter,where you can change it after running it

 

Unfortunately rebuilding the trans is not possible due to the fact the rebuild is worth more than the van.

 

the way to run an aftermarket cooler is to run it in series with the factory cooler, then the fluid is still warmed, but it increases the cooling of the factory setup, if you live in the middle of Texas, Etc, I would run the aftermarket one and not even worry about the factory one, as the fluid is going to heat up pretty fast

 

Look for the 2nd gear pressure switch and make sure it is not leaking or has damaged wiring.

Since a rebuild is out of the question, change the fluid and use Trans Tune to break up any goo/varnish that may be built up.

Cheaper than rebuild option would be to locate a M6HA trans from an importer. Can usually get those for ~$500. Cheaper than a rebuild, but these transmissions are not known for their long life.

 

Lucas will only transform all internal trans seals to jelly! Nobody ever use it in any transmission! If you do, you will most definitely need a complete rebuild after. It will only be a matter of time.

 

Mad Mike
Where will I find the second gear pressure switch?

 

It is screwed into the top of the transmission, located under where the distributor is. It's in a bit of a ***** to get to.


Check the wiring harness, and check the sensor itself for being gummed up before replacing. If there is transmission fluid leaking out of the sensor it is most likely bad.

 

Thanks

 

the Lucas works by softening up the seals, the issue is once they are softened up, they may stop leaking for a short time, but then they will leak much worse, it's fine for a junker you are trying to get a few more miles out of , but not for anything you care about. Same with the power steering stop leak, ask me how I know, it ruins honda power steering seals, what really pissed me off, is I asked the Lucas rep, specifically if it was compatible with Honda power steering systems, and was told it was, it destroyed all my rack seals, my pump seals, the seals on the mechanical controller for the progressive power steering etc, then they tried to tell me I must have done something wrong. I went from a small drip, to fluid pouring out in a week

 

but people unfortunately believe in their bs and buy the crap, hell they even quietly lied to you about what it did. Its all in the marketing whether it works or not. Thats why I typically stick to oem fluids for certain things. You get what you pay for haha

 

Mad Mike
I appreciate all your help. I went to order a switch and found several different part numbers. Majestic Honda has the switch as 28600-PRP-004. Do you know if that is correct for a 98 Odyssey?

 

Is the switch leaking or have some other issue? If it is not leaking and you are not getting a code(s) related to it, why are you replacing it?

 

I am not sure if it is leaking. I want to try and do something about the 2-1 shift being unpredictable.

 

There is a section where you can enter your VIN number, this will give you all the correct part numbers for your particular vehicle.

 

Mad Mike....I replaced the second clutch pressure switch and it didn't help my 2-1 shift. This trans is weird. I checked the solenoids and the old pressure switch and none of them were clogged. This trans shifts really well when it is warm. A lot of time I can't feel the shifts until I come to a stop. Then comes the hard 2-1 shift. Any thoughts?

 

You have a leaking piston, worn out clutch assembly, or leaking balance piston. Given the harsh 2-1 downshift, a balance piston or pressure regulator valve problem is likely.

 

Open the hood and locate the shift solenoids.
There will be a pair on a plate, that is the lockup solenoid pair 'A'.
Below that will be a single solenoid, that is shift solenoid 'B'. Black connector.
And below 'B' will be shift solenoid 'C'. Brown connector.

Disconnect the wire harness that goes to Solenoid 'C', and check the resistance of the solenoid. It should be 15-25 Ω.

Check for any leaks around the solenoid.
Unbolt the one 10mm headed bolt holding Shift Solenoid 'C' and remove the shift solenoid.
Verify none of the O rings are torn or damaged.
Verify the ports of the solenoid are clean and free of debris.

While the solenoid is out do a click test.
Turn it so that you are looking at the end of the electrical connector of the solenoid.
Rotate it so that the locking tab side is in the 12 O'clock position.
Terminals are 1 and 2.
Connect(insulated) jumper/alligator clips to the electrical connectors, ground terminal 1, and intermittently apply power to 2.
Every time you make and break the connection the solenoid should make an instant audible 'click'.

If fine, reinstall using ATF to lubricate the O rings.

If there is a delay or inconsistency in ON/OFF clicking, verify your electrical connections are correct, retest. If still inconsistent or delayed response from the solenoid. Replace.

If the ports were clogged, change the trans fluid. I would also recommend adding a cleaner(TransTune) to aid in removing and break down any buildup inside the trans.

Either the problem lies with the electrical side, minor components, sticking internal valves, or(as slowcivic2k mentioned) accumulator/apply piston issues which cannot be fixed without a teardown.

Check C solenoid, replace the fluid and add a cleaner. Hopefully this will resolve the harsh down shift. Otherwise you will want to check for correct pressures at the test ports. If they are incorrect you will need to have the trans rebuilt to fix whatever may be faulty, be it an accumulator valve, worn apply piston O ring, or other internal issues.

Out of curiosity, before you drive charge each gear, P R N D4 D3 D2 D1, for a few seconds and then go for a normal drive. Does the harsh shift still occur?
If it does, pull over and recharge each gear again, does it diminish the harsh downshift at all?