As the title says. I have a 96 civic ex with 96 H22A swap. I just got it running recently, although the idle is a bit high and rough.

In search of how I might better the idle, I remembered that I deleted the IACV, and that an open connector was left. According to another thread on HT about how to delete IACV, you must jump the connector with a paper clip, which I did.

Right after, I started the car. Fuel pump primed as normal. Car stayed on maybe a second or so and then died. After that, the fuel pump won't prime. Fuel pump fuse is good.

What gives?

 

Not sure where you read that but it's WAY wrong. You probably fried your ECU. You sent 12V to ECU where it wasn't supposed to. If you've checked all the fuses try another ECU and don't jump the Iacv connector.

 

Thanks for the reply hondapartshero, I've seen good info from you elsewhere.

I forgot to check the fuel pump relay fuse (duh) and it was blown. Hopefully that fixes the problem and the ecu isn't fried!

Why does it send 12v back to the ecu?

 

Here is the thread with apparently faulty information:
https://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude-4/h22-h23-f22-iacv-deletion-how-2211191/

It's step #2 in the OP.

No one commented with any problems with it so I didn't think twice about jumping the connection

 

Cause no one else did it.

From what I can tell, your iacv circuit inside your ecu is now fried.

You just made a direct short into your ecu. Iirc the proper way to delete it is with some sort of resistor




Last post of this thread

https://honda-tech.com/honda-crx-ef-.../#post48963074

Measure the coil resistance, then divide 14 (battery voltage when running) by coil resistance, to find the amperage draw.

Then multiply amperage by 14 to get the wattage. Then find a resistor with the right resistance and wattage rating (so you dont burn out the resistor).

Thats the proper way to trick the ecu into thinking the iacv is still attached

 

I believe you could also just leave it connected as well and dangle. If you read that thread you posted it has to be the most ghetto way of deleting the IACV possible. Use a block off plate as well, don't put JB weld in the holes. If the jb weld were to break loose it could get sucked into the intake.

 

To "delete" my IACV all I did was use a block off plate at the intake manifold, cap all of the unused ports in the throttle body, and deleted the code with my S300...

 

No no, I have a skunk mani so no ghetto rig there. I read the wiring diagram in the helms so I see why the ecu would be fried if my fuse didn't blow! Just need to get the code erased when I get it tuned. Thanks guys

 

I have the Skunk2 manifold on my h22 as well, a block off plate works just fine...