2000 Accord Ex timing belt tensioner issues
I've done a timing belt and seal change on my mom's 00, and had to go back into the beast to replace the tensioners (shoulda done it the first time, I know). To get to the question: The "tensioner side" of the timing belt is too tight, while the other side has too much slack- has anybody ran into this problem?
This was the symptom before I put the new tensioners on, and afterwards. The new tensioners seemed to be operating properly before I put the belt on. I've started from the cam down, and the crank up- same results. I take my time on the install, and make sure that it is smooth in every groove, etc. Why can't the tensioner just do its job?!
This was the symptom before I put the new tensioners on, and afterwards. The new tensioners seemed to be operating properly before I put the belt on. I've started from the cam down, and the crank up- same results. I take my time on the install, and make sure that it is smooth in every groove, etc. Why can't the tensioner just do its job?!
To tension the belts, you simply set everything to tdc. Then turn the crank bolt counterclockwise so the CAM moves three teeth. Then you loosen the adjusting bolt half a turn. Then immediately tighten it to spec, normally 28 ft/lb. And you're done. The springs do all the work when you loosen up the adjusting bolt as they draw the belts to tension specs. Then you tighten the adjusting bolt and the belts are tensioned properly.
The balance shaft belt will be slightly more loose than the timing belt.
The balance shaft belt will be slightly more loose than the timing belt.
It doesn't have to be three, but that is all that is really required if you do it right. If the belt is on correctly you could rotating it a million teeth.
What I find useful, is to turn the crank and maintain load on the crank bolt without it turning. this moves all slack from the drive side to the tensioner side which is what you want. It doesn't matter how many teeth you turn, so long as you maintain the position of the crank as you do that.
What I find useful, is to turn the crank and maintain load on the crank bolt without it turning. this moves all slack from the drive side to the tensioner side which is what you want. It doesn't matter how many teeth you turn, so long as you maintain the position of the crank as you do that.
when u turn the cam pulley 3 teeth the tension between the cam and crank is at its greatest which should allow the belt to slack on the water pump side. it u physically block the cam and turn the crank slack will be added to the tensioner and removed all together
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