No start after driving
So, I have a complex no start issue with my car.
When the car has been standing idle for several hours, it starts fine. However, after I drive a bit, it sometimes starts, and sometimes it does not.
Things that are not the issue:
Distributor: Normal sparking
Spark plugs: new
yesterday evening, a friend came out where I was stranded, and we could figure out that too much gasoline comes into the cylinders, and essentially drowns it. We turned the engine over without the spark plugs in it, and gas spluttered in large quantities out of one of the cylinders (pretty cool to see the flames above the cylinders....
) So, we disconnected both injectors, and ran it dry, connected the main injector, got it started and connected the auxiliary injector when running and I was able to make it home.
This morning, I started with checking the ECU codes. It gave codes 6, 10, 14 and 16. Pulled the hazard fuse for a minute, and after that I has a 6 and a 10.
6: Coolant temperature sensor. Checked it cold, and is in spec, but the wires came of, so that explains some things there. Need to fix that.
10: Intake air temperature; I checked the TS sensor and it is broke (40M ohm instead of 1-4K ohm), does respond to temperature, but remains way to high. However, that should by itself not cause the issue.
14: Proceeded to test if electronic air control was still an issue, started car and 14 came back on. So, checked EACV and resistance was in spec, as well as voltage. Disconnected the ECU and no voltage on the connector. That suggests ECU I need a known-good ECU to test if the ECU is broke. (I do not have one, but I have suspected for some time that the ECU might be not totally good).
16: Fuel injection. Has not yet come back on, but that might be caused yesterday because we disconnected them to get the car started. I need to get some of these other things fixed first before I can test that. Resistances are within spec, as is voltage.
So, I am waiting for some friends to come over before I can proceed (aka, get some parts; I need a second car..... :-( )
Am I on the right track?
When the car has been standing idle for several hours, it starts fine. However, after I drive a bit, it sometimes starts, and sometimes it does not.
Things that are not the issue:
Distributor: Normal sparking
Spark plugs: new
yesterday evening, a friend came out where I was stranded, and we could figure out that too much gasoline comes into the cylinders, and essentially drowns it. We turned the engine over without the spark plugs in it, and gas spluttered in large quantities out of one of the cylinders (pretty cool to see the flames above the cylinders....
) So, we disconnected both injectors, and ran it dry, connected the main injector, got it started and connected the auxiliary injector when running and I was able to make it home.This morning, I started with checking the ECU codes. It gave codes 6, 10, 14 and 16. Pulled the hazard fuse for a minute, and after that I has a 6 and a 10.
6: Coolant temperature sensor. Checked it cold, and is in spec, but the wires came of, so that explains some things there. Need to fix that.
10: Intake air temperature; I checked the TS sensor and it is broke (40M ohm instead of 1-4K ohm), does respond to temperature, but remains way to high. However, that should by itself not cause the issue.
14: Proceeded to test if electronic air control was still an issue, started car and 14 came back on. So, checked EACV and resistance was in spec, as well as voltage. Disconnected the ECU and no voltage on the connector. That suggests ECU I need a known-good ECU to test if the ECU is broke. (I do not have one, but I have suspected for some time that the ECU might be not totally good).
16: Fuel injection. Has not yet come back on, but that might be caused yesterday because we disconnected them to get the car started. I need to get some of these other things fixed first before I can test that. Resistances are within spec, as is voltage.
So, I am waiting for some friends to come over before I can proceed (aka, get some parts; I need a second car..... :-( )
Am I on the right track?
Fix the problems with the two sensors as that will cause it to dump way too much fuel when the engine is warm. Also, it could be an issue with an injector hanging up. These toilet bowl injectors are somewhat notorious for failing. Also check operation of the flap inside the throttle body - these tend to hang up as well. Check all vacuum dashpots.
Thank you!
Well, 6, 14 and 16 are gone, and the air temperature sensor comes tomorrow. Now the dash does not show anything except the battery light...... :-(
Well, 6, 14 and 16 are gone, and the air temperature sensor comes tomorrow. Now the dash does not show anything except the battery light...... :-(
And I test drove it. It seems to have its normal power back (It was holding in a bit in the past days), and feels like its old self again......
The codes come from the ECU directly. It is under the carpet on the angled area at the passengers side. Pull the carpet away, and look for the red flashes and count. They come sequentially, each big gap means the next code.
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DC2Mex
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Sep 30, 2013 08:06 AM



