need some help on GSR build
So long story short, I have a cx hatch with a GSR swap, got a deal on a Blox intake mani, with a matched 65mm throttle body.
My motor is burning oil and getting way too much positve crank case pressure, pushing oil through the valve cover breather tube into the intake. Blah blah, im assuming its bad rings, motor has been beat on but its less than 100k on the clock.
So, Im just gonna throw in some new pistons and rings, now might as well go big. Thinking about some CTR pistons, and rocket valve train kit with some cams, but im not gonna pull the motor and have it bored out, im just gonna drop the pistons hone (if there isnt any scoring) it and replace. Its not worth pulling it and shipping it off.
The thing is, im new to all motor, there is a freekish amount of builds and info, and im looking for over 200hp or so, I got cash and you guys are the gods. What is your suggestions...
AGAIN, unless need be I am not pulling the motor to have it bored, its not worth the agrivation nor do I have the time fot the car to be down. NO TURBO, THIS IS MY DAILY, and if I do PULL IT im just going to go all out and sleeve, I beam, and high boost for a reliable setup.
What am I going to need for this,
Bigger injectors?
What is the best fmu to run?
Would there be a better high comp piston to run?
Whatever else youd think
My motor is burning oil and getting way too much positve crank case pressure, pushing oil through the valve cover breather tube into the intake. Blah blah, im assuming its bad rings, motor has been beat on but its less than 100k on the clock.
So, Im just gonna throw in some new pistons and rings, now might as well go big. Thinking about some CTR pistons, and rocket valve train kit with some cams, but im not gonna pull the motor and have it bored out, im just gonna drop the pistons hone (if there isnt any scoring) it and replace. Its not worth pulling it and shipping it off.
The thing is, im new to all motor, there is a freekish amount of builds and info, and im looking for over 200hp or so, I got cash and you guys are the gods. What is your suggestions...
AGAIN, unless need be I am not pulling the motor to have it bored, its not worth the agrivation nor do I have the time fot the car to be down. NO TURBO, THIS IS MY DAILY, and if I do PULL IT im just going to go all out and sleeve, I beam, and high boost for a reliable setup.
What am I going to need for this,
Bigger injectors?
What is the best fmu to run?
Would there be a better high comp piston to run?
Whatever else youd think
Last edited by chitownbluEG; Sep 25, 2014 at 06:04 PM.
Sorry if I seem rude. Im not, I just dont wanna read through all keyboard warrior nonsense.
And if there are any Grammer errors I posted this from my phone at the gym so. Lol sorry
And if there are any Grammer errors I posted this from my phone at the gym so. Lol sorry
And ive gone through the pcv system blah blah blah, it needs a rebuild and I am certain of that.
Sorry for the bumps, but im just trying to inform as much as possible to avoid nonsense posts, because there are alot of comments that should be left unsaid. Ask any questions and ill be happy to answer. Thanks so much in advanced for the help. And yes I can turn a wrench, and yes I am aware of what I have to do.
I just need to know what to buy, who makes the best parts, what its possible and what is not. I am not bothered by anything that could make it rough to street drive. If it can move I can and will drive it.
Sorry for the bumps, but im just trying to inform as much as possible to avoid nonsense posts, because there are alot of comments that should be left unsaid. Ask any questions and ill be happy to answer. Thanks so much in advanced for the help. And yes I can turn a wrench, and yes I am aware of what I have to do.
I just need to know what to buy, who makes the best parts, what its possible and what is not. I am not bothered by anything that could make it rough to street drive. If it can move I can and will drive it.
For starters, don't go into a build so negative and closed minded.
You will want to pull the motor and have the block properly inspected and honed. Period. No point in half assing and getting half assed results. I can almost guarantee there is a lip on the sleeve and will require a proper machine hone, if not a bore.
To address other topics, those are not the best piston choice. I would look into PR3's, P30's or ITR rep pistons. They will allow for more clearance and better tuning options on pump gas, especially if you want to run high lift cams. If I were doing a GSR rebuild it would look like this:
GSR block, crank and rods w/ P73-00 81.25 pistons.
This will put you in the 11.6-11.8 compression range. CTR pistons are 13:1 ish...too much for a street motor on pump IMO. You can get 200whp easily with that base and proper cams/tuning.
Toda header, RDX or Grams injectors and a 68mm TB will compliment it as well.
Do a PCV catch can system and call it a day.
You will want to pull the motor and have the block properly inspected and honed. Period. No point in half assing and getting half assed results. I can almost guarantee there is a lip on the sleeve and will require a proper machine hone, if not a bore.
To address other topics, those are not the best piston choice. I would look into PR3's, P30's or ITR rep pistons. They will allow for more clearance and better tuning options on pump gas, especially if you want to run high lift cams. If I were doing a GSR rebuild it would look like this:
GSR block, crank and rods w/ P73-00 81.25 pistons.
This will put you in the 11.6-11.8 compression range. CTR pistons are 13:1 ish...too much for a street motor on pump IMO. You can get 200whp easily with that base and proper cams/tuning.
Toda header, RDX or Grams injectors and a 68mm TB will compliment it as well.
Do a PCV catch can system and call it a day.
I dont have the time to pull my motor. Plain and simple thats a 3 day process and im doing by myself. And im not trying to be close minded, I just am not new to forums... I didnt want ten posts to say go turbo, or pull and sleeve the block for 200hp.
With a proper hone, im fairly certain that the cylinder walls will be fine, if it lasts me 100k ill be more than happy to rebuild it again.
With a proper hone, im fairly certain that the cylinder walls will be fine, if it lasts me 100k ill be more than happy to rebuild it again.
I can just about 99% guarantee no one in the ALL MOTOR forum will say pull it, sleeve it and go boost.
If you want to try just ball honing it yourself then go for it. If the rings do seat correctly or last then you are out more money and time than doing it right the first time. It takes about 3 hours to pull a motor on your own and disassemble (I've done it myself numerous times)
You car, your build, do what you like. Take my words for what their worth.
Are you still set on running CTR pistons? Or does that go in one ear and out the other too? Not being a dick, just you asked for help and have not been receptive at all.
If you want to try just ball honing it yourself then go for it. If the rings do seat correctly or last then you are out more money and time than doing it right the first time. It takes about 3 hours to pull a motor on your own and disassemble (I've done it myself numerous times)
You car, your build, do what you like. Take my words for what their worth.
Are you still set on running CTR pistons? Or does that go in one ear and out the other too? Not being a dick, just you asked for help and have not been receptive at all.
Exactly why I put it in CAPITAL letters, there are restraints, I DO NOT HAVE THE TIME TO PULL THE MOTOR AND THEN DRIVE IT TO GET HONED. It has to be done over the weekend. I WORK, and no machine shop in Chicago is open on a Saturday within reasonable hours. That means id have to pull the motor in pitch black just to get it anywhere by 7am, and who is gonna machine it in one day anyhow? Im not being a dick, this is what I didnt want to hear.
And no if you have exposure to this and do not recomend CTR pistons then I will take your aversion against them into heart.
Do not take this the wrong way,
I dont have the time to do that,
Disassembling the block is going to open up a entirely different can of worms. I was just asking what pistons would be best to slap in rebuild and drive it.
What size injectors to match said pistons, and can I drive it for a couple days till I can get it tuned like that. Thats all. Not someone to be my old man here.
And no if you have exposure to this and do not recomend CTR pistons then I will take your aversion against them into heart.
Do not take this the wrong way,
I dont have the time to do that,
Disassembling the block is going to open up a entirely different can of worms. I was just asking what pistons would be best to slap in rebuild and drive it.
What size injectors to match said pistons, and can I drive it for a couple days till I can get it tuned like that. Thats all. Not someone to be my old man here.
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I completely understand this is the half assed way to do it. Im okay with that. Its not a track car, im not trying to run the touge here. Im trying to run the ghetto 500 to get to work. And if it cost a couple bucks more for some pistons than it would stock ones, then ill roll with it.
This isnt a custom 300hp build. I just want reliably, and a couple extra ponies to play with.
This isnt a custom 300hp build. I just want reliably, and a couple extra ponies to play with.
For starters, don't go into a build so negative and closed minded.
You will want to pull the motor and have the block properly inspected and honed. Period. No point in half assing and getting half assed results. I can almost guarantee there is a lip on the sleeve and will require a proper machine hone, if not a bore.
To address other topics, those are not the best piston choice. I would look into PR3's, P30's or ITR rep pistons. They will allow for more clearance and better tuning options on pump gas, especially if you want to run high lift cams. If I were doing a GSR rebuild it would look like this:
GSR block, crank and rods w/ P73-00 81.25 pistons.
This will put you in the 11.6-11.8 compression range. CTR pistons are 13:1 ish...too much for a street motor on pump IMO. You can get 200whp easily with that base and proper cams/tuning.
Toda header, RDX or Grams injectors and a 68mm TB will compliment it as well.
Do a PCV catch can system and call it a day.
You will want to pull the motor and have the block properly inspected and honed. Period. No point in half assing and getting half assed results. I can almost guarantee there is a lip on the sleeve and will require a proper machine hone, if not a bore.
To address other topics, those are not the best piston choice. I would look into PR3's, P30's or ITR rep pistons. They will allow for more clearance and better tuning options on pump gas, especially if you want to run high lift cams. If I were doing a GSR rebuild it would look like this:
GSR block, crank and rods w/ P73-00 81.25 pistons.
This will put you in the 11.6-11.8 compression range. CTR pistons are 13:1 ish...too much for a street motor on pump IMO. You can get 200whp easily with that base and proper cams/tuning.
Toda header, RDX or Grams injectors and a 68mm TB will compliment it as well.
Do a PCV catch can system and call it a day.
I can just about 99% guarantee no one in the ALL MOTOR forum will say pull it, sleeve it and go boost.
If you want to try just ball honing it yourself then go for it. If the rings do seat correctly or last then you are out more money and time than doing it right the first time. It takes about 3 hours to pull a motor on your own and disassemble (I've done it myself numerous times)
You car, your build, do what you like. Take my words for what their worth.
Are you still set on running CTR pistons? Or does that go in one ear and out the other too? Not being a dick, just you asked for help and have not been receptive at all.
If you want to try just ball honing it yourself then go for it. If the rings do seat correctly or last then you are out more money and time than doing it right the first time. It takes about 3 hours to pull a motor on your own and disassemble (I've done it myself numerous times)
You car, your build, do what you like. Take my words for what their worth.
Are you still set on running CTR pistons? Or does that go in one ear and out the other too? Not being a dick, just you asked for help and have not been receptive at all.
I dont have the time to pull my motor. Plain and simple thats a 3 day process and im doing by myself. And im not trying to be close minded, I just am not new to forums... I didnt want ten posts to say go turbo, or pull and sleeve the block for 200hp.
With a proper hone, im fairly certain that the cylinder walls will be fine, if it lasts me 100k ill be more than happy to rebuild it again.
With a proper hone, im fairly certain that the cylinder walls will be fine, if it lasts me 100k ill be more than happy to rebuild it again.
Exactly why I put it in CAPITAL letters, there are restraints, I DO NOT HAVE THE TIME TO PULL THE MOTOR AND THEN DRIVE IT TO GET HONED. It has to be done over the weekend. I WORK, and no machine shop in Chicago is open on a Saturday within reasonable hours. That means id have to pull the motor in pitch black just to get it anywhere by 7am, and who is gonna machine it in one day anyhow? Im not being a dick, this is what I didnt want to hear.
And no if you have exposure to this and do not recomend CTR pistons then I will take your aversion against them into heart.
Do not take this the wrong way,
I dont have the time to do that,
Disassembling the block is going to open up a entirely different can of worms. I was just asking what pistons would be best to slap in rebuild and drive it.
What size injectors to match said pistons, and can I drive it for a couple days till I can get it tuned like that. Thats all. Not someone to be my old man here.
And no if you have exposure to this and do not recomend CTR pistons then I will take your aversion against them into heart.
Do not take this the wrong way,
I dont have the time to do that,
Disassembling the block is going to open up a entirely different can of worms. I was just asking what pistons would be best to slap in rebuild and drive it.
What size injectors to match said pistons, and can I drive it for a couple days till I can get it tuned like that. Thats all. Not someone to be my old man here.
I completely understand this is the half assed way to do it. Im okay with that. Its not a track car, im not trying to run the touge here. Im trying to run the ghetto 500 to get to work. And if it cost a couple bucks more for some pistons than it would stock ones, then ill roll with it.
This isnt a custom 300hp build. I just want reliably, and a couple extra ponies to play with.
This isnt a custom 300hp build. I just want reliably, and a couple extra ponies to play with.
Take his advise and half *** it if you want but its best to do it right the first time cause you know what you just might end up in this very same situation get it..
Last edited by wunfstgsr; Oct 3, 2014 at 10:09 AM.
Wow! Just wow. Op buy a jdm motor swap it in then take your time with your build and do it right... otherwise just swap the motor with a jdm and run that.. if you want more ponies to play with and you want reliable. It MUST be done right.
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